Hydro-Boost conversion
- Thread starter DIAZ
- Start date
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blue99tahoe24
bout that tahoe life
More pics bro would love to do this to mine
foot to the floor
foot to the floor
OP
OP
DIAZ
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
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Here are a few more pictures of the setup. Sorry abou the pics, I used my phone and I don't know the lines are soo bright like that.
slipping
Full Access Member
Cool. I'm gonna try to hit the yard in a few weeks. Got my shopping list
HOEIN
TYF Newbie
I think I will be doing this, do you have any pictures of the modified bracket for the pump?
HOEIN
TYF Newbie
So I converted mine over Christmas. Here are a few pointers you need to consider. Mine is 1999 Tahoe 4 dr.
Pedal
- you can use the stock one but you need to swap out the backing plate on the hyrdroboost with one that is centered (the one that comes with the hyrdroboost is offset to the bottom) There is a guy on ebay who sells them for cheap ($25) on ebay for an astrovan conversion, it is the same plate here it is http://www.ebay.com/itm/300797723373?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Steering Solonoid
- you don't need to use the variable steering sensor on the back of the pump (if you change to a hydroboost pump like I did) simply screw the pressure line directly into the back of the pump, you might need to "massage" the lines a bit to get it to route nicely, mine has a few of the stoc bends relieved so it clears the exhaust manifolds nicely, I didn't want my exhaust to heat up the fluid on the way to booster.
Brake switch retainer and pushrod
- You will need a new brake switch retainer as it's basically impossible to take the stock one off without destroying it. 1999 is different than the other years I think, you can get the retainers at advanced autoparts it is made by dorman I think it is like 5 bucks.
Master cylinder
- You need to match your master cyclinder to the hydroboost unit. Depending on the year and model the bore diameter of the hydroboost and the diameter of the protrusion on the master are different sizes. I ended up haveing to buy a new master cylinder from a C3500 1998 to match my hydroboost unit. Not a big deal but keep this in mind.
Hydroboost Pushrod, Retainer and Spring
- Finally, if you buy all new stuff like I did and you didn't get this stuff from the junk yard then you will find out that your stock pushrod (the rod that goes between the booster and the master) is too short and missing some parts. YOU MUST HAVE THE PUSHROD, SPRING and RETAINER assembly from a hydroboosted truck. Now I was lucky and hit the junkyard and pulled one and made it out for $5 bucks after some grumbling from the owner about it being part of the booster, some others might not be so lucky. Best advice is to plan on buying an old junk yard hydroboost with the spring, retainer and pushrod and swapping it out for a new one at the local autoparts store. Make sure you take out the old retainer and pushrod assembly before you do this because the reman units don't come with it!
Fluid
- Power Steering Cooler: my truck didn't have one and I didn't put one it. I did use lucas synthetic fluid and completely swapped out all the fluid when doing this (new pump, hydroboost and lines made this easy, I'm sure not much was left in the steering gear) I haven't noticed any issues with hot fluid but then again it is winter here in RI so I'll see how it is in the summer and may end up adding one.
Hydroboost to pedal pushrod
- Brake pedal booster pushrod: was fine I didn't need to modify this like others have said they had to, all you have to do is swap the booster backing plate to center it and it matches up in line with the stock pedal.
Impressions: Huge difference in brake feel, clamping force and stopping power! I heard this was a worth while upgrade but I never thought it would be this good. I Can haul this truck down from 60 mph and lock up the tires if I feel like it without much effort. And I have stock brakes, rubber lines and autozone duralast brake pads and shoes.
Again I did this on a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 4 Dr and everything I used was from a 1998 C3500 pickup with hydroboost!
Ken
Pedal
- you can use the stock one but you need to swap out the backing plate on the hyrdroboost with one that is centered (the one that comes with the hyrdroboost is offset to the bottom) There is a guy on ebay who sells them for cheap ($25) on ebay for an astrovan conversion, it is the same plate here it is http://www.ebay.com/itm/300797723373?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Steering Solonoid
- you don't need to use the variable steering sensor on the back of the pump (if you change to a hydroboost pump like I did) simply screw the pressure line directly into the back of the pump, you might need to "massage" the lines a bit to get it to route nicely, mine has a few of the stoc bends relieved so it clears the exhaust manifolds nicely, I didn't want my exhaust to heat up the fluid on the way to booster.
Brake switch retainer and pushrod
- You will need a new brake switch retainer as it's basically impossible to take the stock one off without destroying it. 1999 is different than the other years I think, you can get the retainers at advanced autoparts it is made by dorman I think it is like 5 bucks.
Master cylinder
- You need to match your master cyclinder to the hydroboost unit. Depending on the year and model the bore diameter of the hydroboost and the diameter of the protrusion on the master are different sizes. I ended up haveing to buy a new master cylinder from a C3500 1998 to match my hydroboost unit. Not a big deal but keep this in mind.
Hydroboost Pushrod, Retainer and Spring
- Finally, if you buy all new stuff like I did and you didn't get this stuff from the junk yard then you will find out that your stock pushrod (the rod that goes between the booster and the master) is too short and missing some parts. YOU MUST HAVE THE PUSHROD, SPRING and RETAINER assembly from a hydroboosted truck. Now I was lucky and hit the junkyard and pulled one and made it out for $5 bucks after some grumbling from the owner about it being part of the booster, some others might not be so lucky. Best advice is to plan on buying an old junk yard hydroboost with the spring, retainer and pushrod and swapping it out for a new one at the local autoparts store. Make sure you take out the old retainer and pushrod assembly before you do this because the reman units don't come with it!
Fluid
- Power Steering Cooler: my truck didn't have one and I didn't put one it. I did use lucas synthetic fluid and completely swapped out all the fluid when doing this (new pump, hydroboost and lines made this easy, I'm sure not much was left in the steering gear) I haven't noticed any issues with hot fluid but then again it is winter here in RI so I'll see how it is in the summer and may end up adding one.
Hydroboost to pedal pushrod
- Brake pedal booster pushrod: was fine I didn't need to modify this like others have said they had to, all you have to do is swap the booster backing plate to center it and it matches up in line with the stock pedal.
Impressions: Huge difference in brake feel, clamping force and stopping power! I heard this was a worth while upgrade but I never thought it would be this good. I Can haul this truck down from 60 mph and lock up the tires if I feel like it without much effort. And I have stock brakes, rubber lines and autozone duralast brake pads and shoes.
Again I did this on a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 4 Dr and everything I used was from a 1998 C3500 pickup with hydroboost!
Ken
Rd05lly
TYF Newbie
Nice upgrade here is a write up to help keep your hydro boost happy.
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/9074-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/9074-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html
Great advice, I have a 96 2dr tahoe I want to do this to... Question(stupid, I know), did you guys make new brake lines or did those come off the trucks at junk yard? I've never bent new lines so that's intimidating for a newbie.. What diameter lines and how did you do this? How difficult was it if you did your own? Thanks a lot
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
as far as brake lines are concerned they stay in place. they require no changes when going hydro.
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