I could really use some help - New shocks/springs/level.

[zwanzon]

Keep springs, get ccm strut spacer for above strut and get new ucas for angle. Keep 1” block for rear

Ugh, that's going to put me out another $500 just to have a couple inch lift. Is the car safe to drive on the way it is? I'll have to wait another week if I'm ordering all new parts. Which UCAs do you recommend? Thanks for your help btw.

 

[PG01]

Ugh, that's going to put me out another $500 just to have a couple inch lift. Is the car safe to drive on the way it is? I'll have to wait another week if I'm ordering all new parts. Which UCAs do you recommend? Thanks for your help btw.

Is everything back together and buttoned up tight? Do you hear any noises? As in cv grinding etc. your alignment is probably off now and i would say if you’re all tightened up and it wont hurt for a few days but bad alignment equals bad tire wear, pulling, putting extra wear on parts etc. Depending on how your truck rode before... it may be an entirely diff animal now. Did you check all ball joints, tierods and whole front end out? Kind of hard for me (or anyone for that matter) to say ‘yeah, go drive it, you’re fine’ over the internet.

 

[zwanzon]

Is everything back together and buttoned up tight? Do you hear any noises? As in cv grinding etc. your alignment is probably off now and i would say if you’re all tightened up and it wont hurt for a few days but bad alignment equals bad tire wear, pulling, putting extra wear on parts etc. Depending on how your truck rode before... it may be an entirely diff animal now. Did you check all ball joints, tierods and whole front end out? Kind of hard for me (or anyone for that matter) to say ‘yeah, go drive it, you’re fine’ over the internet.

I completely understand. I am more of asking in regards to the spring/shock situation. Everything is tightened up to all the correct torque settings and the other parts looked to be in fine condition. As I mentioned earlier, I did the lower ball joints as well and I know they are solid. I was going to finish up the rear today (shocks and springs) and I'm not too worried about the tires as they are in need of replacing anyway. I'm just trying to find the best solution according to my current situation.

 

[01Konvict]

I completely understand. I am more of asking in regards to the spring/shock situation. Everything is tightened up to all the correct torque settings and the other parts looked to be in fine condition. As I mentioned earlier, I did the lower ball joints as well and I know they are solid. I was going to finish up the rear today (shocks and springs) and I'm not too worried about the tires as they are in need of replacing anyway. I'm just trying to find the best solution according to my current situation.

You added a 2” lower spacer and set struts to second notch. That equals about 3”-3.25” of lift. I know your 2wd so that lift height should be ok but your upper arms will be resting on droop stops. Reset springs to lowest perch on struts. Run the spacer for 2” lift. Put stock springs off old struts on 5100s. Return new springs. Then get new upper arms and a 1” coil spacer for the rear. Then set front back up 2 notches for 3” lift if wanted to level with rear 1”. You will need to lift up on the the lower arm with a pry bar to attach to upper ball joint.

 

[zwanzon]

You added a 2” lower spacer and set struts to second notch. That equals about 3”-3.25” of lift. I know your 2wd so that lift height should be ok but your upper arms will be resting on droop stops. Reset springs to lowest perch on struts. Run the spacer for 2” lift. Put stock springs off old struts on 5100s. Return new springs. Then get new upper arms and a 1” coil spacer for the rear. Then set front back up 2 notches for 3” lift if wanted to level with rear 1”. You will need to lift up on the the lower arm with a pry bar to attach to upper ball joint.

Hey @01Konvict . I'm actually 4WD. I had to take the CV axel nut off, etc. to replace the lower ball joint. The reason I got springs in the first place is that my Tahoe has 168k miles on it and I just figured I might as well do them since I was doing the shocks and taking the whole strut apart anyway. Are you saying new springs aren't really needed at all (meaning I don't need to do the rear spring either)? Also, your saying I'm not able to run OEM springs/2nd notch/2" RC lower spacer without replacing the UCAs? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get educated.

 

[01Konvict]

Hey @01Konvict . I'm actually 4WD. I had to take the CV axel nut off, etc. to replace the lower ball joint. The reason I got springs in the first place is that my Tahoe has 168k miles on it and I just figured I might as well do them since I was doing the shocks and taking the whole strut apart anyway. Are you saying new springs aren't really needed at all (meaning I don't need to do the rear spring either)? Also, your saying I'm not able to run OEM springs/2nd notch/2" RC lower spacer without replacing the UCAs? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get educated.

Oh gotcha. Must have overlooked it in the one picture. Basically anything over 2” front lift starts the max of non lift. 2.5” puts the upper arms almost on the droop stop of the frame. So with your 2” lower spacer then struts set at second notch your around 3” range. If you can safely run that much lift with the cv angles then your uppers will be on the droop stops. So you need lift upper arms to clear stops and correct ball joint angles. Hope that clears things up for ya

 

[zwanzon]

So I just got off the phone with Moog directly, and the tech verified I do have the correct springs for anyone that may run into this same issue. The Moog 81244 are the "heavy duty" version and work perfectly on 4x4 applications. This was very great to hear that I don't have to take everything apart again.

@01Konvict - Thanks again for all your help. I have two questions:

1. Do you have a recommendation on UCA's that work for the setup you mentioned above?
2. How do you calculate if you are CV axles are at a safe angle?

 

[01Konvict]

So I just got off the phone with Moog directly, and the tech verified I do have the correct springs for anyone that may run into this same issue. The Moog 81244 are the "heavy duty" version and work perfectly on 4x4 applications. This was very great to hear that I don't have to take everything apart again.

@01Konvict - Thanks again for all your help. I have two questions:

1. Do you have a recommendation on UCA's that work for the setup you mentioned above?
2. How do you calculate if you are CV axles are at a safe angle?

Glad to hear the springs are good and you don’t have to tear them apart again. For the money I prefer the boxed zone ones. No real way to calculate safe angle. It’s more a visual. I’ve only seen one truck be able to run 3” safely. Everyone else is 2.5”. Just need to see pictures of the angles to determine if your good or bad. Another option to stay at that height is some cheap eBay diff drop spacers which lower the diff about 1/2” so you can push it at 3”.

 

[Tiki]

I ran Cognito UCAs and was very happy with them. More than a 2" lift is asking for trouble on these vehicles, sounds like you are on the right path.

 

[The_Burban]

OP,. How is. This working for you? Pics?