Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

AEM wideband should be delivered today.
My task for the next few days that i have off is to get the garage cleaned up (again) and get the hoe back in the garage.

I'm at about 800 miles on the new engine now.
I finally changed the oil to 5w30 Mobil one.

Still seeing metal in the filter, looks like copper and not magnetic.
Exactly the same tint as the trimetal main bearings.

I used a good quart or two of oil to flush out the engine before the fill.

This time while i had the oil plug out, i remembered to break out the ol drill press to install a magnet in the drain plug.
@iamdub for the idea

Sealed in with some 242 Loctite.
While i would have liked to give it 24hrs, i opted to give it one hour before reinstall and oil fill since i didn't plan it too well.
(Hoe's ass poking out of the garage, thus blocking the door from shutting)


I also took the hoe for a nice drive before the oil change, used the tech2 to log for missfire.
Very little noticed, all looked good overall.
I just did my best to keep it under 3k rpm, I don't want to go into PE yet.

While out and about, i ended up needing to cross 4 mud puddles.
Thick clay got everywhere.

I stopped and shut off the truck, and noticed my hvac control was still on.
I pushed the power button but nothing!
Noticed that lights looked dim, almost like this one time i had a bad ground in the back of my vette.

Vette exp,
That time i had just upgraded the fuel pump to prepare for some power upgrades.
I learned that the vette had a shared ground for the pump and the tail lights.
And it's tiny!

For the vette, the repro was the tail lights wouldn't shut off.
The lights went real dim and was stuck on, super weird.
Then i got the bright idea to use a jumper cable from the fill neck to a solid ground.
(For the vette, the pump grounds out to the fill neck/pump strainer thing. IIRC later models got a dedicated ground)

Lights shut off once the ground was established.
so the vette got a nice dedicated ground strap from the fill neck to the frame.


For the hoe,
I opened the door expecting all things to shut off, but nope.
Even the radio stayed on.
went to turn the key to start and that did the trick...

All was fine from there...

On the way home i started getting some weirdness.
Started with my radar detector randomly restarting, then it moved to my radio.

Later the dash started blanking out, then the dash acted like it restarted but the engine never stopped running that i noticed.

Right as i was pulling into the neighborhood the fuel gauge read empty, when i should have 1/4 tank.
Warning lights about low fuel and range etc.
Radio kept power cycling as did the radar detector.

I decided to pull over and restart the hoe to see if it cleared it up.
I got nothing!
Dead hoe.

Then after a minute things came back to life.

Pulled codes, mostly I wanted to check the drive cycle monitors to ensure they didn't reset.
Emissions time, and it's too hot to get them to reset again unless i get up at like 6am (again).

I saw a few random ones like the disabler/security showed something about the circuit.
That and the others that screamed ground issues.

Drive cycle stuff was fine and didn't reset.


My gut says ground, especially with it just starting after the puddles.

So i washed off the thick ass clay, paying special attention to those grounds under the truck.
Made a big mess of my driveway.

All is good since then, so i have some grounds to clean up!
I have a spool of Ancor branded marine spec 4 gauge on order.
Time to make some new grounds!



I also want to remake the battery leads.
Maybe get some welding 0 gauge...

For the ground post,
i like how the tightening bolt points straight up.
Makes it very easy to deal with it in the tight location.

Looking around, I'm not seeing a clear diy replacement that has the same setup.
Suggestions would be very much appreciated.

 

[pwtr02ss]

AEM wideband should be delivered today.
My task for the next few days that i have off is to get the garage cleaned up (again) and get the hoe back in the garage.

I'm at about 800 miles on the new engine now.
I finally changed the oil to 5w30 Mobil one.

Still seeing metal in the filter, looks like copper and not magnetic.
Exactly the same tint as the trimetal main bearings.

I used a good quart or two of oil to flush out the engine before the fill.

This time while i had the oil plug out, i remembered to break out the ol drill press to install a magnet in the drain plug.
@iamdub for the idea

Sealed in with some 242 Loctite.
While i would have liked to give it 24hrs, i opted to give it one hour before reinstall and oil fill since i didn't plan it too well.
(Hoe's ass poking out of the garage, thus blocking the door from shutting)


I also took the hoe for a nice drive before the oil change, used the tech2 to log for missfire.
Very little noticed, all looked good overall.
I just did my best to keep it under 3k rpm, I don't want to go into PE yet.

While out and about, i ended up needing to cross 4 mud puddles.
Thick clay got everywhere.

I stopped and shut off the truck, and noticed my hvac control was still on.
I pushed the power button but nothing!
Noticed that lights looked dim, almost like this one time i had a bad ground in the back of my vette.

Vette exp,
That time i had just upgraded the fuel pump to prepare for some power upgrades.
I learned that the vette had a shared ground for the pump and the tail lights.
And it's tiny!

For the vette, the repro was the tail lights wouldn't shut off.
The lights went real dim and was stuck on, super weird.
Then i got the bright idea to use a jumper cable from the fill neck to a solid ground.
(For the vette, the pump grounds out to the fill neck/pump strainer thing. IIRC later models got a dedicated ground)

Lights shut off once the ground was established.
so the vette got a nice dedicated ground strap from the fill neck to the frame.


For the hoe,
I opened the door expecting all things to shut off, but nope.
Even the radio stayed on.
went to turn the key to start and that did the trick...

All was fine from there...

On the way home i started getting some weirdness.
Started with my radar detector randomly restarting, then it moved to my radio.

Later the dash started blanking out, then the dash acted like it restarted but the engine never stopped running that i noticed.

Right as i was pulling into the neighborhood the fuel gauge read empty, when i should have 1/4 tank.
Warning lights about low fuel and range etc.
Radio kept power cycling as did the radar detector.

I decided to pull over and restart the hoe to see if it cleared it up.
I got nothing!
Dead hoe.

Then after a minute things came back to life.

Pulled codes, mostly I wanted to check the drive cycle monitors to ensure they didn't reset.
Emissions time, and it's too hot to get them to reset again unless i get up at like 6am (again).

I saw a few random ones like the disabler/security showed something about the circuit.
That and the others that screamed ground issues.

Drive cycle stuff was fine and didn't reset.


My gut says ground, especially with it just starting after the puddles.

So i washed off the thick ass clay, paying special attention to those grounds under the truck.
Made a big mess of my driveway.

All is good since then, so i have some grounds to clean up!
I have a spool of Ancor branded marine spec 4 gauge on order.
Time to make some new grounds!



I also want to remake the battery leads.
Maybe get some welding 0 gauge...

For the ground post,
i like how the tightening bolt points straight up.
Makes it very easy to deal with it in the tight location.

Looking around, I'm not seeing a clear diy replacement that has the same setup.
Suggestions would be very much appreciated.

I take it my "do a WOT pull" suggestion didn't fix it?

I'm far from an expert on these trucks especially the electrical. Hopefully someone can give some actual advice

(PSA:I may or may not have had a beverage or two when I replied the other night....I thought it was funny at the time)

 

[Just Fishing]

Yeah i reply here after having an adult beverage or two quite often.


And grounds cleaned up, found extras in the back, behind the fuel tank.

And my wideband came!

After trying and failing to find some location i could ride the cable through, i gave up and made a new one.
Sorta near where the parking brake cable passes through.
Seemed like a good location where the insulation has a nice divot perfect to route a cable through.
Just painted the new hole, waiting for some cure time before i route the wire though.

Getting closer to some actual tuning!

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah i reply here after having an adult beverage or two quite often.


And grounds cleaned up, found extras in the back, behind the fuel tank.

And my wideband came!

After trying and failing to find some location i could ride the cable through, i gave up and made a new one.
Sorta near where the parking brake cable passes through.
Seemed like a good location where the insulation has a nice divot perfect to route a cable through.
Just painted the new hole, waiting for some cure time before i route the wire though.

Getting closer to some actual tuning!

Awesome!

are you putting the wideband and the rear o2 bung? Post cat

 

[Just Fishing]

Awesome!

are you putting the wideband and the rear o2 bung? Post cat

Yup, that's the plan.

Probably going to replace the post cat o2 for now.
Later i'll have a new bung welded in.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yup, that's the plan.

Probably going to replace the post cat o2 for now.
Later i'll have a new bung welded in.

That's my plan as well. Was waiting to hear your thoughts and I haven't had the brain power to study the differences in the AEM ones. Seems like there's a million

 

[Just Fishing]

I have the other brand in my vette.
I like it better for the main reason that it comes with a serial connector already installed.
You have the option to connect it or disconnect it as you wish.

One pita part of that one, you need to do an open air calibration of the sensor every so often.
It also has lots of complaints about short life of the sensors.
I read something where peps think it's the way innovate drives the sensors.


With the aem, you need to wire the serial in.
It also does not come with a serial connector, but it's only two wires...
My plan is to dig into some of my old computer crap for an old serial connector.
Since i never throw any of that crap away, i have a good chance it's in the horde.

The AEM one also says you never need to do the open air calibration, but they say you can if you want...

The little processor box thing is also apparently inside of the little gauge, so you connect another wire set in order to log or use it's other features.
I'm not the biggest fan of that setup.
That means i need to run more wire up/down my pillar...


My main reason for the AEM, it's what goat rope garage uses.
Should i need to buy some of his time to help me with the tune, it's a good option.
And i also found a config file that's pre setup for the AEM, i figured what the heck!

 

[Just Fishing]

I also had a small oil leak, just a drop here and there.
Almost seemed to come out of the converter/bell housing inspection area.
Me thinking i might have made a mistake with the new rear main took this as a "yeah it's fine".
Just a drop here and there is all i noticed.

I popped off the inspection cover to feel around, was not totally clear but it felt more like a possible pan gasket leak than a rear main.
Or i'm getting a little seeping through the converter bolts...


When changing my oil this last time, I had a chance to really look around with a flashlight.
And that i was recently offroad, I could see a nice clear drip path coming from the passenger side valve cover.
And at the valve cover, I could see a slight extra overhang of that valve cover gasket!
Looks like i didn't quite center it right when it was installed.

I have never been so happy to see a leak coming from my valve cover.

Later task, I'll tackle that when i get around to swapping out my pushrods for slightly longer 7.4in.



And i routed the wideband wire today, for now I'm probably going to run power from the cig lighter.
Maybe give it it's own ground for good measure.

For the serial adapter part of the AEM, i have this ordered.

Amazon.com

Has the FTDI chip that i know and love, no real reason to have the actual serial port.

 

[cooki3mnster]

AEM wideband should be delivered today.
My task for the next few days that i have off is to get the garage cleaned up (again) and get the hoe back in the garage.

I'm at about 800 miles on the new engine now.
I finally changed the oil to 5w30 Mobil one.

Still seeing metal in the filter, looks like copper and not magnetic.
Exactly the same tint as the trimetal main bearings.

I used a good quart or two of oil to flush out the engine before the fill.

This time while i had the oil plug out, i remembered to break out the ol drill press to install a magnet in the drain plug.
@iamdub for the idea

Sealed in with some 242 Loctite.
While i would have liked to give it 24hrs, i opted to give it one hour before reinstall and oil fill since i didn't plan it too well.
(Hoe's ass poking out of the garage, thus blocking the door from shutting)


I also took the hoe for a nice drive before the oil change, used the tech2 to log for missfire.
Very little noticed, all looked good overall.
I just did my best to keep it under 3k rpm, I don't want to go into PE yet.

While out and about, i ended up needing to cross 4 mud puddles.
Thick clay got everywhere.

I stopped and shut off the truck, and noticed my hvac control was still on.
I pushed the power button but nothing!
Noticed that lights looked dim, almost like this one time i had a bad ground in the back of my vette.

Vette exp,
That time i had just upgraded the fuel pump to prepare for some power upgrades.
I learned that the vette had a shared ground for the pump and the tail lights.
And it's tiny!

For the vette, the repro was the tail lights wouldn't shut off.
The lights went real dim and was stuck on, super weird.
Then i got the bright idea to use a jumper cable from the fill neck to a solid ground.
(For the vette, the pump grounds out to the fill neck/pump strainer thing. IIRC later models got a dedicated ground)

Lights shut off once the ground was established.
so the vette got a nice dedicated ground strap from the fill neck to the frame.


For the hoe,
I opened the door expecting all things to shut off, but nope.
Even the radio stayed on.
went to turn the key to start and that did the trick...

All was fine from there...

On the way home i started getting some weirdness.
Started with my radar detector randomly restarting, then it moved to my radio.

Later the dash started blanking out, then the dash acted like it restarted but the engine never stopped running that i noticed.

Right as i was pulling into the neighborhood the fuel gauge read empty, when i should have 1/4 tank.
Warning lights about low fuel and range etc.
Radio kept power cycling as did the radar detector.

I decided to pull over and restart the hoe to see if it cleared it up.
I got nothing!
Dead hoe.

Then after a minute things came back to life.

Pulled codes, mostly I wanted to check the drive cycle monitors to ensure they didn't reset.
Emissions time, and it's too hot to get them to reset again unless i get up at like 6am (again).

I saw a few random ones like the disabler/security showed something about the circuit.
That and the others that screamed ground issues.

Drive cycle stuff was fine and didn't reset.


My gut says ground, especially with it just starting after the puddles.

So i washed off the thick ass clay, paying special attention to those grounds under the truck.
Made a big mess of my driveway.

All is good since then, so i have some grounds to clean up!
I have a spool of Ancor branded marine spec 4 gauge on order.
Time to make some new grounds!



I also want to remake the battery leads.
Maybe get some welding 0 gauge...

For the ground post,
i like how the tightening bolt points straight up.
Makes it very easy to deal with it in the tight location.

Looking around, I'm not seeing a clear diy replacement that has the same setup.
Suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Check out Harbor Freight for a hydraulic crimped for that 0 gauge cable. Bought on when I re wired the Chevelle and made all new battery cables. Made life sooo much easier.

 

[iamdub]

...I also want to remake the battery leads.
Maybe get some welding 0 gauge...

For the ground post,
i like how the tightening bolt points straight up.
Makes it very easy to deal with it in the tight location.

Looking around, I'm not seeing a clear diy replacement that has the same setup.
Suggestions would be very much appreciated.

This?

Growing up doesn't have to suck

Clean af as always dub. One of these days I'll get around to cobbling something together for mine:) Good yob (hecho en USA)

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Also, I used a hydraulic crimper like what @cooki3mnster mentioned. Same thing, just yellow and from Amazon. Got the tinned marine lugs and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing from Amazon as well.