Lift Plans 2008 XL Denali

[AR34]

Think I’ve narrowed down what I’m going to do. Let me know if I’m on the right track or if I’m leaving anything out. It is a 2008 Yukon XL AWD with AutoRide.

-5” Rough Country 4WD lift
-Rough Country dual cardan driveshaft
-Rough Country N3 Lifted struts
-4 resistors for disabling AutoRide

Planning on 20x9 Fuel Vapors with 20mm offset and 285/65R20 BFG KO2s. I don’t like a wheel/tire combo that sticks out a lot but like a little. Will these poke out a bit?

What rear shocks should I go with?
Will I need to modify the strut or shock supports at all to accommodate a non AutoRide shock? As far as deleting the auto level, should I put longer rods in or does a resistor work there too? Read a huge thread on that and it never really ended up being covered.

I’ve read a ton here and all over the internet. Really want to get all this coming but want to get everything right before I tear into it. Thanks.

 

[AR34]

Anyone?

 

[01Konvict]

Rough country lift doesn’t have any rear drop members for suspension. I prefer pro comp 6” over it or bds/zone 4”. All of those increase front track width. Bulletproof 6-8” doesn’t increase width. Might need rear pro comp drop brackets can’t be certain right now for bulletproof.

Wheel choice is skinny. The increased track width and that tire with be almost flush with fender and only stick out 1”. I prefer stock bigger replicas or a 20x9 negative offset up to a x12 just depends on look you want. I think you should go with a wider tire though. Width makes it look better. If you go with any of those increased track width kits you need to get 1.25” wheel spacers for rear so the front and rear match widths.

 

[Bill 1960]

I researched all this heavily before I lifted mine. I do not recall if RC included rear drop brackets to maintain the horizontal position of the rear trailing arms or not. I remember Fabtech and ProComp do. That’s important IMO.

Whatever lift you decide on should give specific recommendations on wheel and tire size. With PC 4.5” of backspace is about maximum. I don’t know it for a fact, but I suspect all the big lifts use the same front spindle dimensions. After all, they have to clear the same components. There’s no magic sauce to avoid some increase in track width.

Those 285’s are about as narrow a 35” nominal tire as can be found. With a 9” wheel you’ll still have a significant amount of poke. Mine’s more than I like, and that’s on an 8” wheel.

 

[AR34]

Thanks guys. I was thinking about the 285/65r20 since I run them on my 19 f250 that’s a daily. Thought it might be handy to have 2 vehicles running the same tire. I drive on dirt 75% of the time and have had great luck with the BFGs as well as Trail grapplers with nails. This Yukon will be used for hunting and long hunting road trips so I wanted to stay away from something that would be noisy.

I really like the look of the Suburban in the pics I’ve attached. Has about the right “poke” for me. Would love to find pocket style flares that would work if I had wider tires.

 

[AR34]

What the best way to post links on here? Almost every kit says won’t work with AWD. I’ve told myself to stop worrying about that based on some other threads.

The price of the RC was the only thing that interested me. I don’t really have a budget but with lift, wheels, and tires, throwing $6k on a vehicle I paid $11k for is hard.

 

[Jason in DLH]

I only have suspension spacers. So, the only thing I can add here is to mark the original location of the Ride Height Sensors as you’ll need to adjust these after the lift is installed. You’ll need to install longer threaded rod at each location. The diameter of the rod eludes me, but maybe someone will help out here.

 

[AR34]

I only have suspension spacers. So, the only thing I can add here is to mark the original location of the Ride Height Sensors as you’ll need to adjust these after the lift is installed. You’ll need to install longer threaded rod at each location. The diameter of the rod eludes me, but maybe someone will help out here.

Thanks. Think I remember seeing someone one used 10x24 all thread. My only concern with keeping the stock suspension is that it rides a little rough now and my compressor kicks on enough that I think I may have a leak. Replacement OEM isn’t cheap.

 

[AR34]

I researched all this heavily before I lifted mine. I do not recall if RC included rear drop brackets to maintain the horizontal position of the rear trailing arms or not. I remember Fabtech and ProComp do. That’s important IMO.

Whatever lift you decide on should give specific recommendations on wheel and tire size. With PC 4.5” of backspace is about maximum. I don’t know it for a fact, but I suspect all the big lifts use the same front spindle dimensions. After all, they have to clear the same components. There’s no magic sauce to avoid some increase in track width.

Those 285’s are about as narrow a 35” nominal tire as can be found. With a 9” wheel you’ll still have a significant amount of poke. Mine’s more than I like, and that’s on an 8” wheel.

have any pics?

 

[AR34]

Anyone have a guess as to what the offset is on the suburban pictured above? Just said 20” XDs witty 35” pro comps.