Long crank start, can not figure it out. 05 Yukon. UPDATE ISSUE FIX

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ivin74

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It all started 2 weeks ago, one morning I started the suv(started right away) and headed to the gas station to filled up, after the fill up I tryed to turn it on and it acted like it was going to turn on, but it did. It cranked but the battery acted like it did not have enough cold cranking amps.
Seemed like the battery died all of a sudden. Called my wife and she drove up and jumped started me and went on about my business. That issued did not happened again the rest of the day. Fast forward to this weekend it did it again. This time I took the battery to get tested (2 year old battery) and it tested fine. Put it back on and drove it 2 more days. Went to the store and back and as soon as I got home it did it again put the multi meter tester on it and it read 12.8 volts. This time I took the battery of my son's 04 Silverado and put it on my suv to see if it would do it again. Sure enough it did the same thing. Now I'm thinking it's the starter or the fuel pump. I can't believe it could the the fuel pump (Denso pump, 2 years old 20k miles on it). I decided to remove the starter and bench test it and it tested good. But since the suv has 190k miles I decided to just put a new one in anyways(AC Delco)

I tested the fuel pump and it was within the specs plus once the suv turns on it runs fine.

If I crank it for 3 or 4 time it acts like the battery is completely dead. If I jump it sometimes it cranks and sometimes it doesn't. What is weird is that it does the same thing if I start it by bypassing the ignition switch and relay.

I tested the alternator and it was good.

I was leaning towards a bad computer until I bypassed it. Any thoughts?
 
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B-train

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I wonder if you have some corrosion in the cables. It sounds like a high amperage draw, low electrical flow. I would recommend a voltage drop test with your meter. You could do the min/max at the battery to see what it drops to while cranking. Then do the an actual voltage drop test to see how much is being blocked by corrosion or other factor.
 

OR VietVet

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Especially if you live in a salt on the roads state, sounds like corrosion causing a connection problem or corrosion built up under the insulation of a cable causing a voltage drop. When you say it will not start, do you mean that the engine cranks and will not fire off or do you mean the engine does not crank over/spin over, like it has a dead battery. Your story is a little confusing in that regard.
 
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ivin74

ivin74

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Especially if you live in a salt on the roads state, sounds like corrosion causing a connection problem.
No salt here in the Houston area plus the suv sits in the garage most of the year. I might drive it one or twice a month.

When you say it will not start, do you mean that the engine cranks and will not fire off or do you mean the engine does not crank over/spin over,
The suv cranks and fires up after several attempts.
Cables, battery or to much amperage being drawn on the starter.I use to use a vat-40 if you have had the battery load tested and the starter amp tested then yes-check cables and connections.
I think you maybe correct, to much amperage is being drawn. The battery has been load tested at two different parts stores. I checked the battery volts while cranking it and the battery volts drop to just over 10 volts
 
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ivin74

ivin74

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Update, I put a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to the engine block and the suv started right up. Checked the ground cable to the block and it was lose. Tighten it up and no more issues. Thanks for y'alls input
 
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