Loud noise coming from front passenger brake? Also ABS feeling

[stevek]

First issue:
Well on a Yukon, we have this annoying screech that is coming from the front passenger brake. At times it happens when not even on the brake -- although when you do push the brake (and moving obviously) it sounds horrendous. The Yukon has 21k on it so I don't think it's the pads. Just for what it's worth, it's only driven in the mountains so the brakes can get pretty toasty. Rotors are not warped. No grooves in rotors. No brake fade. Only super loud squeaking when braking and occasional noise at lower speeds.

Second issue:
On a Tahoe, it's noticeable when I'm getting out of my driveway, but I get this clicking in the pedal, like the feeling you get when ABS kicks in. This only happens for the first few minutes of driving the car and usually goes away. It does let the brakes loosen like ABS is on, but there is no ABS light that goes off, no chime, nothing. It's a little freaky going down the driveway sometimes given it's a steep incline with a rock wall at the end.


Suggestions on either?

 

[Modded]

For the Yukon your passenger side front wheel hub may be going bad. Also if its an AWD the CV may be going bad. If so its best to take it to the dealer because it will be covered.

 

[stevek]

For the Yukon your passenger side front wheel hub may be going bad. Also if its an AWD the CV may be going bad. If so its best to take it to the dealer because it will be covered.

It's 4WD^

Hubs aren't covered under warranty which is ******** considering they're expensive to replace, no?

"All internally lubricated parts, final-drive housings, axle shafts and bearings, constant velocity joints, propeller shafts and universal joints. All mounts, supports, seals and gaskets as well as any electrical components internal to the drive axle. Also covered are any actuators directly connected to the drive axle (i.e., front differential actuator, etc). Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are all wheel bearings, drive wheel front and rear hub bearings, locking hubs, drive system cooling, lines, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring and electrical connectors related to drive systems as well as any drive system control module and/or module programming"

I'm trying to think of some way to tell the dealership to look at it without directly saying "the hub is bad" because then they'll charge me to look at it.

 

[ChevyFreak]

I had a similar issue with my Tahoe. I did have warning lights though which alerted me to the issue. However, mine was fairly severe as the ABS was all over the place and I could hear a clunk when I turned the wheel. Your problem may be the beginning of this.

FYI - I took it to the dealer and they replaced the front hub assembly at no cost to me. It was covered under the factory 5yr./100,000 mile power train warranty.

 

[stevek]

Oh Elizabeth from GMCS, I took the Tahoe to the dealer and they said there is no problem a few years ago. I showed them a video and took an audio recording and said there was no problem with the brake ABS feeling. Champion Chevrolet in Reno SUCKS!

I'll see what the GMC dealer says about the Yukon, going there today.

 

[Zed 71]

Brakes: Sounds like the passenger side caliper piston is dragging. Squealing, check to see if the back of the pad still has the anti-squeal lube - may need to reapply.

FYI I had a front hub replaced under warranty.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

It's 4WD^

Hubs aren't covered under warranty which is ******** considering they're expensive to replace, no?

"All internally lubricated parts, final-drive housings, axle shafts and bearings... "

The "Bearing" listed there would be the hub bearing. I would not accept that this is not covered after only 20K+/- miles on the vehicle. However, I agree that the noise could be coming from the pad movement and to re-apply the anti squeal lube.

For the ABS issue, when was the last time you performed a full flush on the Hydroboost/powersteering unit? I just bought mine, but it had a similar thing happening, when you would tap the brake a little hard or quick it felt like there was an ABS "Shutter" but after the flush yesterday that shutter is gone.

 

[stevek]

Brakes: Sounds like the passenger side caliper piston is dragging. Squealing, check to see if the back of the pad still has the anti-squeal lube - may need to reapply.

FYI I had a front hub replaced under warranty.

Took it to Just Brakes before I took it to the dealership. They said brakes weren't in need of replacement, but said they were getting within a few thousand miles. Who the hell needs their pads replaced by 25k?? Took it to the stealership and they said the pads needed to be replaced, along with tires and a whole other load of crap that miraculously was wrong. Going to go there Monday and ask them to leave all of the parts they replaced out for me to look at -- including the tires.

The "Bearing" listed there would be the hub bearing. I would not accept that this is not covered after only 20K+/- miles on the vehicle. However, I agree that the noise could be coming from the pad movement and to re-apply the anti squeal lube.

For the ABS issue, when was the last time you performed a full flush on the Hydroboost/powersteering unit? I just bought mine, but it had a similar thing happening, when you would tap the brake a little hard or quick it felt like there was an ABS "Shutter" but after the flush yesterday that shutter is gone.

Well I tried to get the dealer to flush it in the summer of 08 (18 months owned) and they wouldn't... said there was no problem and it couldn't be reproduced (EVEN THOUGH I showed them my video of how it happens). They wanted to charge me an assload to do it and I just figuratively said "**** you" and left.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

I would find another dealer. Any mechanic or dealer worth his salt will know that fluid maintenance is not something that needs done only after there is a problem. Another thing to consider on the brakes is that with you living in the mountains and your truck being big and heavy, it is gonna be much harder on brakes and tires alike. If I may make a couple of suggestions there, when you replace them, first, do not turn the rotors, replace them. If you have them turned they wind up warping due to heat because of being too thin. Also, I would really consider installing drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. While they cost a little more than oem replacements, they offer much better cooling and wear as well as giving you better stopping performance overall.

As for the brake and power steering fluids, I would also change those every 15K miles or so.

 

[Zed 71]

I had to replace my rotors at 20k due to warping - pretty weak. I replaced with EBC slotted and their Green stuff pads. I do a lot of mountian/camping driving and the difference in braking with EBC was dramatic - no fade. IMO you only need slotted.

IMO change brake and steering when color changes (not too dark) or chem strips indicate time for change.