Lowering my Tahoe

[OHSIXX]

I thought I had to include the original post (quote) in order for my reply to reach you; though it looks like it might not matter. Why helper bags if you kept autoride? Does it improve the ride, towing or both? I'm going back and forth on whether or not I should keep the autoride. I'm not looking forward to doing the free travel mod. I don't do a lot of towing but I do carry lots of cargo in the back.

Oh gotcha..was confused for a min. The only reason I did the bags is that were cheap(in comparison to the cost of all the other stuff). Also easier to put them in while doing the install. This is my first drop and didn't want the ass saggin with either people in the truck or towing something. I'd be irritated if I had to undo the rear drop to put them in...so I figured cheap insurance. I hooked up the boat the other day to test it out and it actually didn't give as much as it did with the stock springs. Usually my autoride will kick in after setting the trailer on the hitch but it didn't. Everything still functions like it did.....my advice is to just put them on to be on the safe side.

@DaNoobLi

 

[Rocket Man]

I tow a pretty heavy trailer and my Autoride handles it easily without helper bags. I also used it as a people hauler during the Hood To Coast Relay last year, 7 people and all their gear plus coolers, etc. and it never even came close to rubbing on my 26's and I'm lowered with a 2/3 on my Denali. I love the Autoride. It was a pain to rebuild it at first but worth it to me.

 

[Fosscore]

I'll second this info ^^.

For $80 or cheaper if you find a deal the Airlift bags are just a bonus while you have it all apart.

Get them, stick them in and you have up to 35psi to firm up your rear end whenever you need.

You'd be surprised how well they actually can adjust with just a few psi.

Edit. Red Rocket makes good points as well.

 

[DaNoobLi]

You had to rebuild your autoride in order to the drop?

 

[DaNoobLi]

Oh gotcha..was confused for a min. The only reason I did the bags is that were cheap(in comparison to the cost of all the other stuff). Also easier to put them in while doing the install. This is my first drop and didn't want the ass saggin with either people in the truck or towing something. I'd be irritated if I had to undo the rear drop to put them in...so I figured cheap insurance. I hooked up the boat the other day to test it out and it actually didn't give as much as it did with the stock springs. Usually my autoride will kick in after setting the trailer on the hitch but it didn't. Everything still functions like it did.....my advice is to just put them on to be on the safe side.

Thanks for your and @Fosscore input as well.

 

[Rocket Man]

You had to rebuild your autoride in order to the drop?

No. My compressor and rear shocks were shot when I bought it so I had a choice- eliminate the autoride or rebuild it. I chose to rebuild since I was planning on lowering it on 26's plus wanted to tow. It cost a bit more than converting to regular shocks and heavier springs and I had trouble because the "spoofers" that Arnott supplied for the front shocks kept failing so I had to solder in resistors instead. That was actually the only trouble, but it was a PIA because I had to take it to a shop every time the "service ride control" light came on to see where the trouble was. In hindsight, I'd suggest installing the resistors all the way around whether replacing OR removing the autoride.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just for clarification, I used Arnott's kit for the autoride which was the cheapest way to go. It eliminated the electronic damping for the front and rear which is a part of the autoride that I didn't want. That's why the front and rear still needed "spoofers" which are basically their resistor packs. There are other factory replacement shocks (I believe Monroe's) that keep the electronic damping which don't need spoofers. I opted to modify the suspension in other ways in order to make it handle better, like DJM swaybars and endlinks, energy suspension front links, Spohn panhard bar, etc. It drives like it's on rails now.

 

[DaNoobLi]

Just for clarification, I used Arnott's kit for the autoride which was the cheapest way to go. It eliminated the electronic damping for the front and rear which is a part of the autoride that I didn't want. That's why the front and rear still needed "spoofers" which are basically their resistor packs. There are other factory replacement shocks (I believe Monroe's) that keep the electronic damping which don't need spoofers. I opted to modify the suspension in other ways in order to make it handle better, like DJM swaybars and endlinks, energy suspension front links, Spohn panhard bar, etc. It drives like it's on rails now.

I take it you got Tony's 2-3/4 kit which is what I'm thinking of going with. Sounds like the autoride could end up costing me more money and time down the road. I'm almost wondering if I should just disable and go with helper bags as Fosscore suggested. I do okay with bare DIY suspensions but dealing with electronics and air stuff puts me outta my comfort zone. I want an OEM ride like you because I plan on going with 26s and the same drop so I may need to pay someone to do it right the first time. Very good info - I really appreciate it.

 

[NORCAL SS]

Ive done many set ups on 26s. my 3/5-6 rides great but on 26s will be a little stiffer but not horrible at all

 

[Stance tahoe]

My chevy tahoe 2001 just started acting up it acts like its in neutral when its in reverse an it feels like it dragging its stelf when its in drive can you tell me whats wrong is my tranny going bad or just a sensor going bad?