Need help figuring out why this hole is here

[DFletch]

Hello new owner of a 2008 Yukon XL Denali and I need help figuring out if this hole I found when I was going to change the oil will be or is a problem

 

[RST Dana]

Hello new owner of a 2008 Yukon XL Denali and I need help figuring out if this hole I found when I was going to change the oil will be or is a problem

Hole yes, oil around the hole, larger problem!

 

[DFletch]

Hole yes, oil around the hole, larger problem!

So hole = problem? If so is it some what easily repairable? And oil around hole why does that equal bigger problem?

 

[B-train]

It's the inspection/ flywheel tooth access. There's a little cover that pops in. It won't hurt anything being gone, but just get one eventually.

The oil residue was what @RST Dana was referring to as a bigger issue. Usually oil dripping off the bell housing of the transmission means either: oil pan gasket, oil cooler adapter, or rear main seal is leaking and accumulating there due to its location.

I have a 2008 Denali and it looked just like yours.......I got the joy of pulling the trans to put in a RMS. The seal wasn't bad, the cover assembly gasket was. But, oil is cheap if you want to push that repair off for awhile.

 

[DFletch]

It's the inspection/ flywheel tooth access. There's a little cover that pops in. It won't hurt anything being gone, but just get one eventually.

The oil residue was what @RST Dana was referring to as a bigger issue. Usually oil dripping off the bell housing of the transmission means either: oil pan gasket, oil cooler adapter, or rear main seal is leaking and accumulating there due to its location.

I have a 2008 Denali and it looked just like yours.......I got the joy of pulling the trans to put in a RMS. The seal wasn't bad, the cover assembly gasket was. But, oil is cheap if you want to push that repair off for awhile.

Okay, thank you very much for the information, and how soon would you I recommend I start legitimately looking into repairing them both?

 

[B-train]

Okay, thank you very much for the information, and how soon would you I recommend I start legitimately looking into repairing them both?

How many miles on the vehicle?

There are a number of oil related leaks that creep up as these LS motors get some time on them. You will eventually see lower than ideal oil pressure, leaks,etc.

1. Valley gasket and tower seals. Easy enough job for mechanical person. Replace oil pressure sender with GENUINE GM while there.
2. When doing the RMS, plan on putting in a new oil pan gasket and oil pump pickup tube o-ring (very common)
3. When pan is off, replace oil cooler block off plate or oil cooler mounting plate gasket.
4. Since the transmission will be out, maybe plan on a new torque converter/service because it will never get easier than that.

As for the time line.......whenever your pocket book says so. I finally got tired of parking on cardboard so I did the RMS. But, I lived with it slowly getting worse for 40k miles.

I did the valley gaskets at 145k and the oil pressure improved some. Oil pressure is now like new without a RMS leak. I say if you start seeing lower pressure when hot, or if you get any hot restart lifter clatter, then you are VERY ready for it.

 

[DFletch]

How many miles on the vehicle?

There are a number of oil related leaks that creep up as these LS motors get some time on them. You will eventually see lower than ideal oil pressure, leaks,etc.

1. Valley gasket and tower seals. Easy enough job for mechanical person. Replace oil pressure sender with GENUINE GM while there.
2. When doing the RMS, plan on putting in a new oil pan gasket and oil pump pickup tube o-ring (very common)
3. When pan is off, replace oil cooler block off plate or oil cooler mounting plate gasket.
4. Since the transmission will be out, maybe plan on a new torque converter/service because it will never get easier than that.

As for the time line.......whenever your pocket book says so. I finally got tired of parking on cardboard so I did the RMS. But, I lived with it slowly getting worse for 40k miles.

I did the valley gaskets at 145k and the oil pressure improved some. Oil pressure is now like new without a RMS leak. I say if you start seeing lower pressure when hot, or if you get any hot restart lifter clatter, then you are VERY ready for it.

229K give or take a few and thank you very very much again for the wisdom and guidance, I’ll start looking into making these repairs and be on the look out for any oil/oil pressure related problems. And one last thing, #3 said to replace oil cooler block off plate OR oil cooler mounting plate gasket, would it be better if I were to replace both?

 

[B-train]

229K give or take a few and thank you very very much again for the wisdom and guidance, I’ll start looking into making these repairs and be on the look out for any oil/oil pressure related problems. And one last thing, #3 said to replace oil cooler block off plate OR oil cooler mounting plate gasket, would it be better if I were to replace both?

All good, my pleasure to help.

It's either/or. You have one or the other - bith go to the same spot. Easy enough to see if you have 2 cooler lines that run from above the oil filter area to the front of the truck to the radiator.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Just go to a local dealer and purchase the metal cover and install it. IMO, you should not leave it uncovered, as outside contaminants/road debris kicked up by your tires 'could' get inside the hole. A cheap insurance.

 

[DFletch]

How many miles on the vehicle?

There are a number of oil related leaks that creep up as these LS motors get some time on them. You will eventually see lower than ideal oil pressure, leaks,etc.

1. Valley gasket and tower seals. Easy enough job for mechanical person. Replace oil pressure sender with GENUINE GM while there.
2. When doing the RMS, plan on putting in a new oil pan gasket and oil pump pickup tube o-ring (very common)
3. When pan is off, replace oil cooler block off plate or oil cooler mounting plate gasket.
4. Since the transmission will be out, maybe plan on a new torque converter/service because it will never get easier than that.

As for the time line.......whenever your pocket book says so. I finally got tired of parking on cardboard so I did the RMS. But, I lived with it slowly getting worse for 40k miles.

I did the valley gaskets at 145k and the oil pressure improved some. Oil pressure is now like new without a RMS leak. I say if you start seeing lower pressure when hot, or if you get any hot restart lifter clatter, then you are VERY ready for it.

Hello, sorry to pop back up on the net, but on no.1 you said “oil pressure sender” is that the oil pressure sending unit or did you mean sensor?