Need help picking shallow subs.

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h0tr0d

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Hey guys I've never had subs in any of my cars and I got the go ahead from my girl to put some in the Yukon. I'm going to get a down-firing box that goes under the rear seat off of ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...ewItem&pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item483b1d14ba

My question is since I know nothing about the 2ohm or 4ohm single or dvc crap, I need help picking out a couple subs and a suitable amp. Keep in mind I'm not looking for competition level bass, just enough to add a little kick to the system...pretty much the cheaper the better.

Here are the specs on the box:
# Dual 10"
# Air Space: 0.70 Cubic Feet Per Sub
# Mounting Depth: 4-1/2"
# Sealed Enclosure
 

branndon_b

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pat, the 2ohm/4ohm/dvc stuff is just for ohm load. the ohm load is the resistance the amp sees, so lower = more power. that being said, if you go TOO low, the amp doesn't like it, and will clip or shut down. also, the dvc = dual voice coil, and it is just there for more flexibility with the ohm load. so a sub with 2 voice coils @ 4 ohms can be wired in parallel with one another for a 2 ohm sub, or in series for an 8 ohm sub. also, when you "bridge" an amp, which means you use the + terminal on one channel and the - terminal on the other channel, you will cut the ohm load the amp "sees." so if you have an amp that is 1 ohm stable, you will have to have no lower than 2 ohms for your subs, which doesn't matter if you have 200 subs all wired to show 2 ohms overall, or one @ 2 ohm sub. sorry if that doesn't make sense. lemme try this. 2 subs @ 4 ohms, paralleled, = 2 ohms. those 2 subs bridged on an amp = 1 ohm load. anyhow, it's not rocket science, just keep in mind that a single voice coil sub will jam just like a dvc will, it's just gonna give you flexibility in wiring. or one voice coil on one channel of an amp and the other on the other channel if you have a 2 channel amp. or 1 v.c. bridged on 2 channels and the other on 2 channels if you have a 4 channel. i don't have much info on the shallow subs, but hopefully i may have cleared up some of the stuff with the ohm load. to sum, lower ohm load = more power out of the amp, but too low = amp clipping/overheating/shut down.
 
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h0tr0d

h0tr0d

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Thanks for your help branndon_b! I'm still very much a noob at this and want to know if I understand you correctly.

So I can get two of these subs, wire the voice coils in parallel to bring them down to 1ohm, then wire both subs together for a total load of 2ohms?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWS1023/Alpine-SWS-1023D.html?tp=111&tab=features_and_specs

And I can get this amp, bridge the connection and be running at a full 600W RMS?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236JH600/MTX-JackHammer-JH600.html?tp=35834&tab=features_and_specs

Edit: I think the smart move here would be to just get a single good 10 and push it to the max, it would probably hit better than those shallow subs anyway. I'll just take it out when I need to.
 
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For shallow subs I would get Rockford Fosgate P3's shallows. Ive heard plenty of systems that jam really well with those. For and amp i'd get and alpine or fosgate both are underrated amps that make more power than advertised.

---------- Post added at 05:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:31 AM ----------

Check out this web site ive orderd from them with lots of luck they have good prices too.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5820/P3S...t;-600-Watt-Shallow-Mount-2-Ohm-Subwoofer.htm
 

branndon_b

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from what i can gather, i looked at the mtx website, and it looks like even though it's a mono (1-channel) amp, it has hookups for 2 speakers. looks like the connections are paralleled internally in the amp, so if you just hook up one speaker, that's the ohm load on the amp, but if you hook up 2, it is the ohm load of the 2 speakers paralleled.

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/manualsQuickInstall/amps/JH300-600_Sheet_1.pdf

so you would SERIES the individual speakers, so you would have 2 @ 4 ohm subs, and then hook a set of speaker wires to each speaker, which would parallel inside the amp to a 2 ohm load on the amp. OR, parallel the 2 subs and get a 2 ohm load, and just run one set of wires to the pair. just check out the picture link. looks like this amp is 2 ohm stable, so that's as low as you would wanna go. so from what i see, looks like you're right on the subs and amp, you should be able to do what you wanna do with this amp/sub combination.
 

Devious_Tahoe96

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Go to onlinecarstereo.com, they have some good prices. Im looking into getting some rockford fosgate p3 10" subs for under the back seats.
 

biggauges85

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i know this thread is kinda old but if you haven't bought yet i recommend kicker. to get the most for your money you have to do your research.

the reason i recommend kicker is their subs are designed pretty well to operate in the optimum hertz range for good audio quality. like my 15" l5 has a frequency response of 20-100 hertz which means it has really low bass and the fact that it is 750 watts rms running at 2 ohm load to a zx750.1 class d monoblock amp means it hits hard. i have it mounted behind my rear seats in a custom box i built tuned to 36 hertz with a custom port i designed. now i take it you wanna go low profile to save judging by the fact that you were going to get that crappy under the seat box (sorry) from ebay. i'm sorry but prefab boxes suck unless you get the recommended sub/amp combo in the recommended power range for that box. now i know you probably think my box is huge and takes all kind of space but it doesn't. the box is 21" high by 10" deep by 49" wide and 16.75" tall in the front (it's a custom slight wedge box). it is exactly 4 cubic feet. i can make a sub sound anyway you want. let me take pictures tomorrow i will post.

if you already bought subs let me know what model. i could custom design a box to what you want out of your sound system. all you would have to do is take the measurements to an audio shop and have them put it together. trust me, a good and well designed box can (and usually does) make all the difference.
 

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