Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

wow that sucks they put the wrong ratio gears in.. that sounds like it would be very ******* the transfer case as well of you drove around in auto setting. in 2wd it might not have been horrible.

as for the missfire. I don't know how much you work on cars, but for the missfires treat it as if it's a normal truck. normally you start with a tune up, check the grounds, there's one on the front of the driver's cyl head that's common issue in all ls engines. also these hybrids have quick release battery terminals.. make. sure they are tight. you shouldn't be able to move them at all by hand when tight. if you can track down which cyl it is that throws the code all the time that is helpful. sadly on all these trucks the afm is worth checking out, of that checks out. then switch coils around to see if the miss fire follows it to the new cyl.

I would agree that a tranny shop is probably not the best place to troubleshoot the engine in general.

honestly the dealer is a crap shoot too. they don't know anything special about these trucks, there's a huge turn over of techs at dealers and they haven't gotten any training on these trucks since probably 2008. and even then they are mostly parts swappers and these trucks need trouble shooters. especially if it's hybrid related stuff. like the afm can't be repaired bit dealers and most shops want to sell you can engine because it's eaiser and more profits for the.
just saying the word hybrid scares most parts swapper techs. so you'll probably be better off finding a smaller shop that isn't scare to work on it and has experience with finding miss fires on ls engines to see if it's ignition related or if it's afm.


these trucks really reward diy mechanics able to work on their own stuff, but if your have to rely on a shop. they will probably bleed your wallet dry and leave you with a still broken truck.

that's a pretty common thread on these boards. dealer swaps a bunch of expensive parts, it's something completely different and the owner ends up trading it off for scrap prices 6 months later. it's a shame really.

I think you're right sir. Well, I didn't have the match of a chance to drive on that wrong gear ratio differential. And the guys from the AAMCO they said that my tranny and gearbox are fine so I don't really worry about. Probably yes, I have that thing with the solenoid because there is a taking clicking sound when you accelerate and decelerate. Unfortunately here in Brooklyn New York we don't have a good mechanics. For instance, I had the issue with Stabilitrack. I went to the shop for the diagnosed. They said I had to replace the whole ABS system. It's going to cost me $2,000. For you to know this is a very good shop with very good reputation and that mechanic took me basically behind the counter escaping the whole line of cars he had. He did me a favor. In order to just apply for a simple inspection for the shop, you have to stay in line for 30 or 40 days. I solved the problem just by a hammer. I had a bad terminals on the positive and negative so I just hammer them down and tighten the screw as much as they could and that's it. No more stability track issue.
If there is someone on this forum for Brooklyn, New York or New York who knows a good mechanic who really I mean really can solve the issue not just taking money and tighten the bolt or something. Please let me know.

 

[j91z28d1]

I've heard about those northern trucks.. seems from watching videos that the connects get corroded up, especially the module that runs the air ride leveling. takes the whole can bus net work down.

sucks about the shops. it's so hard to find good work unless you work in the industry and have friends in the business.

but yeah, if you do a search here outside this hybrid forum, there's a bunch of stuff about ground points. it might be worth checking those especially on trucks driven in the salty roads. I'm lucky to be down south avoiding all that haha

I enjoy watching this guy working on rusty chevy he gets in his shop. his shop is in new York but I have no idea where compared to you.

https://youtube.com/@SouthMainAuto?si=_wqVKj8Kq0F2Lvpu

 

[BG1988]

I think you're right sir. Well, I didn't have the match of a chance to drive on that wrong gear ratio differential. And the guys from the AAMCO they said that my tranny and gearbox are fine so I don't really worry about. Probably yes, I have that thing with the solenoid because there is a taking clicking sound when you accelerate and decelerate. Unfortunately here in Brooklyn New York we don't have a good mechanics. For instance, I had the issue with Stabilitrack. I went to the shop for the diagnosed. They said I had to replace the whole ABS system. It's going to cost me $2,000. For you to know this is a very good shop with very good reputation and that mechanic took me basically behind the counter escaping the whole line of cars he had. He did me a favor. In order to just apply for a simple inspection for the shop, you have to stay in line for 30 or 40 days. I solved the problem just by a hammer. I had a bad terminals on the positive and negative so I just hammer them down and tighten the screw as much as they could and that's it. No more stability track issue.
If there is someone on this forum for Brooklyn, New York or New York who knows a good mechanic who really I mean really can solve the issue not just taking money and tighten the bolt or something. Please let me know.

the Cadillac had the 3.42 ratio

3.08 would be incorrect for it

 

[makintoshnex]

Alright today was really rainy day in Brooklyn. I drove like 2 miles. Vehicle started as usual, light shaking, nothing more. Btw I already ordered new MAF and o2 sensors. I was hoping that that would cure misfire. So I took a trip, hit couple of put holes , parked. After 45 minutes I started the engine, it started to shake like crazy . I looked at exhaust I already saw it was puffing. I hooked up scanner and got codes for 1 and 7. It's not the first time I'm getting those codes. About good 9 months ago I had the same situation. Same rainy day. I bet any managed to get out from the underground parking. I had the same impulses into gearbox, I could not move the vehicle when the engine was idling, neither D or R I felt bangs and vehicle was jumping. I went to shop 2 days after, I was amazed that it started as usual after sitting for some time. Shop diagnostics said faulty 1and 7. So they changed coils. Had it only 2 times since than. I have 2 new original coils. Should I try to do o2 sensors+ MAF+ coils. Or it makes no sense??? And I should better invest in that cylinder deactivation system. Or something is getting wet and this happens???

 

[j91z28d1]

I honestly don't know, unless someone else has delt with this exact issue and found the problem, it's going to be hard to diagnose over the internet.

my first instinct is to say it's a wiring issue of some type. something gets wet passed a seal on a connector or gets into a module. doesn't work then drys out from sitting and works again. could be so many things.

Intermittent electrical issues can be the hardest thing to find, just being able to recreate them is a big help for a tech searching.

the cyl deactivating issues from stuck lifters usually make a pretty loud tapping sound from under the hood. most mechanics know the sound when they hear it, since it's a very common problem across all these years ls engine.

only idea I would have is running it thru a car wash or something and see if I can make it do it to help narrow it down.

 

[makintoshnex]

Just checked vehicle now, still dame thing.
If I'm not mistaken this is right diagram for cylinders
Here Also I shoot short video . Let me know what you think. Unfortunately I can not move it right now. Lucky it is still good to park there till Friday

 

[makintoshnex]

Ok I did some Job, and than my phone died when I was shooting Video. Ok long story short. I replaced 2 MAP sensors 1 MAF, 2 coils 1and 7 ,and new intake filter. Broke top manifold MAP retaining clip. When I pulled out sensor ring was wet , dripping wet. Smelled gasoline, same when I picked out intake filter. How come gas inside intake manifold??? Piston got stuck??? So I solved that thing with puffing engine. Just left with random misfire. Ordered 4 o2 sensors 2 down and 2 up stream. I got codes for them before. Never got codes for MAF and MAP. I uploaded 2 videos on a top. Is there someone who can tell what is that sound engine makes???

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah that pic above is correct for cyl numbering.

the fuel small is a bit concerning. could be a fuel injector leaking, which could cause the miss too if it's bad. how did the spark plugs look coming out of 1 and 7? any black fluffy carbon from being rich?

the basics would be check for spark and do a compression test. but in not really sure how to do a compression test on the hybrid, since they don't have a normal stater. it might be the same, but I think they spin the engine super fast.

a compression test would tell you a lot thou.

 

[makintoshnex]

yeah that pic above is correct for cyl numbering.

the fuel small is a bit concerning. could be a fuel injector leaking, which could cause the miss too if it's bad. how did the spark plugs look coming out of 1 and 7? any black fluffy carbon from being rich?

the basics would be check for spark and do a compression test. but in not really sure how to do a compression test on the hybrid, since they don't have a normal stater. it might be the same, but I think they spin the engine super fast.

a compression test would tell you a lot thou.

I noticed a hissing sound coming from the engine. I tried to wiggle hoses of intake and on intake. Nothing changed, I try to check throttle body, that might be faulty and replace intake manifold gasket. That's not that expensive. According to YouTube mechanics if there be gas on throttle body that is the issue. Because I got gas all down to the intake filter, I saw a small puddle. I drove it today and it was as usual with that light shaking. I will try to get to that spark plugs, but those are not an issue I guess. I replaced all of them and coils too together with wires, that didn't help with random misfire. I think that something might be wrong with throttle. Because then it leaks fuel, that dump that mixture right into driver side cylinders, and when you leave vehicle alone for few days, gas evaporates and it starts as usual. That's might explain that issue, and how it cured itself. Maybe I am wrong but that is the only thing that comes into my mind, now.

 

[j91z28d1]

the throttle body is just a air valve these days.. there's no fuel running to it like the old days.

that's why I was wondering if the spark plugs in those 2 cyl were wet with fuel. that could mean the fuel injectors for those 2 cyl are stuck open a bit. you might look at the fuel pressure on your scanner. it should be 45-50 psi running and when it goes into auto stop, it seems to creep up, I guess from the heat build up. but if you see it falling pretty quickly, you might have a leaky injector.

is it possible what you're seeing is oil? these ls engines without the upgraded oil baffle in the valve cover are known to suck a lot of oil in to the intake. it tends to puddle around places. it's not great for the engine but doesn't normally cause big problems.