Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

Okay so what I've done. I removed the fuse panel top of it. Put it back together again .Connected the battery terminals and just started right away. I got 15.6 volts in the system. After a minute or two it dropped two 14.2 volts, engine is idling like new. Literally like new. Nothing really wrong with it. This truck is a mystery for me. I still having that stability track day. I cannot program the ABS unit. I cannot do anything. I need tech to win I think. I bought one long time ago but it was a Chinese knockoff and it was not working at all. So far I don't have a boost. My brake pedal is really soft. I don't want to mess with it. I noticed that board itself. It's not original. It's a delphi. Some blocks are Delphi as well. Also, I noticed a lot of corrosion on the ABS control unit work at the picture.

 

[j91z28d1]

looks like you've definitely found something worth cleaning in that fuse box. I've never had mine apart, did you just flip the 2 levers and pull? I should probably check mine too even thou I don't get the corrosion you get.


yeah, I'm not good on the programming modules, I believe that sounds right thou. there's a 100 page thread around here somewhere. it sounds hard to get the China one to work. I believe it only works with a old windows xp laptop. but the non China is very expensive. might be better to just pay a dealer to flash it. I wouldn't expect them to charge more than an hour labor?

there's some kinda brake pressure calibration these trucks need, I messed around with a scanner once when I first got mine and dumped all the pressure out of the booster and it felt like crap, long peddle and no stopping power, I belt it was throwing a code of some sort too, but I don't remember exactly. it might be what yours feels like? like old manual brakes in a 50s farm truck lol. I used the scanner to run the automatic brake bleeder function, but I didn't actually open the bleeders and make a mess, just did what it said on the screen. it runs thru a bunch of tests and makes you pump the brake pedal a few times, and when it was done, it worked again. since you need power assist even when the engine isn't running these have an accumulator and pumps up to like 2500psi or something like that.. so when you hit the peddle, that's your assist. it also needs to know the peddle travel amount for the regen battery charging and all that stuff too.

the braking system on these trucks is way over my head. I read about it and just hope it doesn't fail haha

glad you're making progress thou

 

[makintoshnex]

looks like you've definitely found something worth cleaning in that fuse box. I've never had mine apart, did you just flip the 2 levers and pull? I should probably check mine too even thou I don't get the corrosion you get.


yeah, I'm not good on the programming modules, I believe that sounds right thou. there's a 100 page thread around here somewhere. it sounds hard to get the China one to work. I believe it only works with a old windows xp laptop. but the non China is very expensive. might be better to just pay a dealer to flash it. I wouldn't expect them to charge more than an hour labor?

there's some kinda brake pressure calibration these trucks need, I messed around with a scanner once when I first got mine and dumped all the pressure out of the booster and it felt like crap, long peddle and no stopping power, I belt it was throwing a code of some sort too, but I don't remember exactly. it might be what yours feels like? like old manual brakes in a 50s farm truck lol. I used the scanner to run the automatic brake bleeder function, but I didn't actually open the bleeders and make a mess, just did what it said on the screen. it runs thru a bunch of tests and makes you pump the brake pedal a few times, and when it was done, it worked again. since you need power assist even when the engine isn't running these have an accumulator and pumps up to like 2500psi or something like that.. so when you hit the peddle, that's your assist. it also needs to know the peddle travel amount for the regen battery charging and all that stuff too.

the braking system on these trucks is way over my head. I read about it and just hope it doesn't fail haha

glad you're making progress thou

Well I would not call it a progress. More and more I lean to only one thing defective ABS module. I really have a big trouble replacing that brake light switch on brake pedal. It's not looking like regular GM trucks. Mine is so stiff that I can't do a thing.also I would replace brake pedal position sensor. If that is not going to help I would take that fuse box apart. And if that not going to work well 2 ways either look for used ABS module or junk the truck.

 

[j91z28d1]

oh, I thought it was running better after messing with the fuse box.

I got nothing for changing the sensors and switches. anything under the dash is always a nightmare for me.

 

[makintoshnex]

oh, I thought it was running better after messing with the fuse box.

I got nothing for changing the sensors and switches. anything under the dash is always a nightmare for me.

You know what I never looked at??? Freaking speed monitor sensors. They cause that Stabilitrack too. I just remembered when I was changing rear shocks I had to disconnect them. So I forgot to put them back, and upon starting I noticed Stabilitrack notice. So I had to jack it up again and plug it back. Now in order to get up to the coils #5 and #7 I had to get somehow into engine bay . I had to put my leg inside of a wheel and step on a spoke. Maybe I screwed up cable from speed sensor. Because for now I did pretty much everything what I could. It should give some results. I got rims like on a picture

 

[j91z28d1]

anything is possible. worth looking forsure.

I was hoping when you cleaned the fuse box the voltage would get higher to everything that was throwing all the random codes and they would go away.

maybe just clear everything out with the scanner, do the trick where you take the battery cables off, hold them together for a few mins to drain any power keeping memory alive and then hook up, run a full scan and look at live data to see if that braking module has good voltage close to the battery voltage at the time.

if your scanner is high end enough you can pull up the sensor voltage from each of those shock ride sensors to see if they are giving useful data.

 

[makintoshnex]

anything is possible. worth looking forsure.

I was hoping when you cleaned the fuse box the voltage would get higher to everything that was throwing all the random codes and they would go away.

maybe just clear everything out with the scanner, do the trick where you take the battery cables off, hold them together for a few mins to drain any power keeping memory alive and then hook up, run a full scan and look at live data to see if that braking module has good voltage close to the battery voltage at the time.

if your scanner is high end enough you can pull up the sensor voltage from each of those shock ride sensors to see if they are giving useful data.

I will try to bring it to the shop next week. It requires lift. I can't see from my point anything. I think you might be right. Dealership may reprogram module, I think they would try to sell me one but not fixing existing. There also might be a problem with fuel pump. If there is bad connection it would give same code for Stabilitrack

 

[makintoshnex]

That's m8x25, coil bolt holder. Now I need to get 16 of them. Truck is at the shop, no news for now

 

[j91z28d1]

fingers crossed you get good news from the shop

 

[makintoshnex]

fingers crossed you get good news from the shop

Yeah, I think I should pray really good, only God can expel those gremlins from My Caddy.