Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

[makintoshnex]

fingers crossed you get good news from the shop

No avail, they said that they can't fix it. I will try AAMCO guys. So far they did a good job. If not I would have to junk it. That's I unfortunate I am losing a lot of money. And I still owe 9k to the bank, but as far as I see, I may dump another 2k in it for new booster and it would not help.

 

[j91z28d1]

damn. that's disappointing. this was for the brakes, or the engine misfire?

the major downside of these trucks is finding someone that knows how's they work.

 

[makintoshnex]

damn. that's disappointing. this was for the brakes, or the engine misfire?

the major downside of these trucks is finding someone that knows how's they work.

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

 

[j91z28d1]

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

sorry it's given you so much of a run around. that's a lot of money to put into a used truck.

I've only read one other tread in my searching about the electronic brake module going out. I don't remember the deatils. but I think it was a high mileage truck, like 300k.


I don't blame you for wanting to ditch it and get something else.

 

[j91z28d1]

I feel like this is what I was reading. by the end he does solve it but I didn't get the impression yours what doing the same stuff.

C12D8 No Power Brakes lost all boost - Electric Vehicle Forums

GM Hybrid Trucks, Cadillac Escalade Hybrid, Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid & GMC Yukon Hybrid - C12D8 No Power Brakes lost all boost - Did a search of the forum but no luck on OBD Code C12D8. Background 2009 Tahoe Hybrid currently has a little over 220k miles. I bought it about 18 mths ago with 195k...

electricvehicleforums.com

I know you're over it. Just sharing the link for info.

 

[BG1988]

I asked my mechanic to fix brakes issues. Also he managed to get to the 6 and 8 and replaced coils. Unfortunately brakes still not good. I drove to his shop, I would say it is not the best experience. Tomorrow I am picking it up, and would unload from my junk, take off car seats, and prepair it for sale. But before I want AAMCO to check it. I want estimate of parts and labor. Unfortunately they don't use used parts, only new. Considering aftermarket value of ABS booster it's ranging from 1200$ up to 1500$ + labor. I could assume it would be around 2-3k. If that is true I would dump it for as much as I can. Also I called that dealership that sold me this junk, they say that I have extended warranty. That lasted only from November 2022 till August 2023. Not even a year, and which costed me 2500$. I will try to work with them. Maybe they would take this truck away. I'm ready to pay for towing anywhere, just I don't want to deal with it anymore. I'm so tired you can't even imagine. For that time I owned I made barely 9k miles and dumped around 8 k $ in it. That's financial mistake.

most of the braking power is from the regeneration it might brake weird if 12volt battery is bad (i.e bad ground cable )

my ground cable is bad as well.. i got a replacement (before the price skyrocketed ) the engine would stall out while braking to a stop,
i know the HV battery is bad but after messing with the 12v ground cable it was much better..

make sure the voltage is reading at lest 14.5 to 14.9volts at the terminals if it's less then that
then you got a bad connection... and you're going to have a bad time
also have the 12v load tested

i still haven't put the new cable as i can't get the old one off it's on there good

 

[makintoshnex]

most of the braking power is from the regeneration it might brake weird if 12volt battery is bad (i.e bad ground cable )

my ground cable is bad as well.. i got a replacement (before the price skyrocketed ) the engine would stall out while braking to a stop,
i know the HV battery is bad but after messing with the 12v ground cable it was much better..

make sure the voltage is reading at lest 14.5 to 14.9volts at the terminals if it's less then that
then you got a bad connection... and you're going to have a bad time
also have the 12v load tested

i still haven't put the new cable as i can't get the old one off it's on there good

I got new H6 battery just now. From AutoZone, under warranty. I bought some tester and it was pretty bad . Right after I installed it and pressed brake pedal I got same code for no boost. Plus I got a tons of new stuff . I dropped code but I still have issues. Same light is on. So far I lean to replacement of booster. Only thing is to find right part.

 

[BG1988]

what is the charging voltage 14.3-14.9v is where you want it at when it's running.. it should be at that all the time...
the new battery was faulty?

 

[makintoshnex]

what is the charging voltage 14.3-14.9v is where you want it at when it's running.. it should be at that all the time...
the new battery was faulty?

That duralast gold that I purchased a year ago was faulty. I replaced it under warranty for new one. It's holding charge steady. No self discharge. 12.6 on new battery. I tested cranking, and charging so far 14.6 and steady. So I doubt that is the bad battery. My module is faulty. I had a big hope for battery but unfortunately that is not it. I will try to obtain negative terminal from Rock Auto and try to replace it. So far I get too deep in this truck so probably I would be able to remove bumper and unbolt that connector. Only thing I haven't tried, is to simulate frame to body connection. If negative terminal is bad so I have 2 bad connections on engine block and frame. I will try to thow a wire to a frame and directly to negative terminal. We'll see.

 

[j91z28d1]

the common thing on all these codes seem to be voltage below threshold and calibration lost, most likely they lost cal from lost voltage?

seems like a voltage issue to me. have you been able to check the volt at the abs pump motor? the one that builds the boost that's missing?

did you clean up the fuse box terminals while it was apart?

not the clearest Pic, but I'm like. 90% sure this is the hybrid ebcm wiring. it's all I can find on it.

you could check for voltage at fuse 61 ABS1 40A and fuse 59 ABS2 60A and see if the voltage crashes when you step on the brake to load the circuit there. much harder to check at the plug on the ebcm, I know it's a nightmare to get to. but it's pin 1 and 25 of it. looks like ground is pin 13 and 38 they tie together and then run to ground point g300. that might be worth cleaning too. it's #3 in the location pic.

I'm still not 100% sure what you're chasing, I thought it was an cyl misfire and then somehow because a brake issue. was the brake bad from the beginning or did it start while trying to fix the misfire? it all seems voltage related, either fuse box or I know we keep saying grounds, but especially up north, it's almost always a ground.

good luck man. nothing on this truck is easy.