New guy, not an owner yet, looking for some buying advice...

[Martinjmpr]

I wouldn't necessarily say "no" to a 2500 but from what I've seen they're pretty rare on the used market. I have no need for the 8.1 but the 6.0 would be OK.

Recent CL search turned up 1 2500 and about a dozen 1500's in my area. I have yet to find a GMC 2500 Yukon XL for sale, those must be unicorns!

No worries as I won't be seriously shopping until next year most likely.

 

[ezdaar]

expand your search and reach out to dealerships to help find it.

You sure you want a XL? those things are massive.
Ahh read your post again and understand why now.
Think about this, 2500 crew cab silverado/sierra with a shell on it or hard locking bed cover.
They are dime a dozen.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Aagh, you guys are killing me. Just found a 2001 2500 in my area for 8500. And it has 43,000 miles on it. Oh and it's my favorite color (dark green.) DANG! Too bad I'm not in a position to buy...

Actually, it just gives me confidence that if/when it's time for me to buy I'll be able to find just what I'm looking for. Here in Colorado it seems like Tahoes and Suburbans are everywhere. And almost all of them are 4x4s (seriously, finding a 2wd 'Burb or Tahoe would be a tough chore here.)

EDIT: Whoops, my bad, it has 98,000 on it, not 43,000. Still, a gorgeous truck!

---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:44 PM ----------

So in the 2500 vs 1500 comparison, the 2500 has leaf springs in the back correct? So I'm assuming that means no panhard bar? Does that mean it's easier or less expensive to lift? Not talking about a massive lift, maybe an inch or two. Enough to stuff 33's underneath.

And the 6.0 that's in the 2500 is the same as the 6.0 that's in the GMC, right? Only difference being that the GMC is AWD with no low range but the 2500 'Burb would have low range, yes?

I'm learning! Thanks again for all the advice!

 

[ezdaar]

first are we talking truck or SUV?

If truck ,yess leaf springs in rear, and all thats needed to clear 33's is shackles. 25$ at autozone.
SUV's are all coil spring in the ass and do have panhard rod. spring spacer will clear 33's

Front best is spindles but ALOT of guys just crank the torsion keys, but end up bitching due to steering component failures with in 50k miles.
Not 100% sure anymore, but I think I had 33's on my stock height denali and had no rub issues.

as far as the 6.0, yes its identical

 

[Martinjmpr]

first are we talking truck or SUV?

Front best is spindles but ALOT of guys just crank the torsion keys, but end up bitching due to steering component failures with in 50k miles.
Not 100% sure anymore, but I think I had 33's on my stock height denali and had no rub issues.

as far as the 6.0, yes its identical

No, talking about a Suburban or Yukon XL. For some reason I thought the 2500 Suburbans had leafs in the back while the 1500's had the multilink with coils.

As far as a front spindle lift, isn't that just for 2wds? I'd definitely be getting a 4x4.

 

[ezdaar]

From the quick and dirty digging I just did, you are correct, 1500 is coils, 2500 is leafs with no panhard rod
Then a simple 25$ shackle kit will lift ya enough to clear 33's Np.

Spindle lift is for all vehicles. its the best way to do it.

Easy and cheap. Couple hand tools, jack and couple hours. done..

 

[YukonXL04]

The spindle lift is only for 2wd right? You can get different knuckles for a 4x4 though.

 

[Martinjmpr]

So I'm seeing a lot of Yukons, Yukon XLs, Tahoes and 'Burbs in the 120k-160k mile range.

I know this has been partially answered, but what kinds of "issues" should I expect with vehicles in these mileage ranges? Water pump I've heard, anything else? Does the 4l60e transmission give any cues as to when it's starting to go bad and what would those be? Am I right in assuming that these engines can easily go over 200k?

What's interesting is that as I scan Craigslist I see a lot of high mileage vehicles (0ver 200k) going very cheaply and I'm wondering if that's because they're already starting to have problems.

I guess I'm trying to figure out if it would be better to gamble on a 220k vehicle for $3500 or take the "safe bet" and look at a 110k-130k vehicle for $10,000+.

Am I right in assuming that the transmission is the "high end" component most likely to fail? What would it cost me to have a transmission rebuilt? How robust are the electric 4wd controls on these?

 

[Brake_L8]

I'd keep mileage down, mainly because of the transmissions. The motor is stout from what I know, but I'd rather have a lower-mile 4L60/65 than one with 200k+ to start with.

That said, if you find a clean one with higher miles, it may not be all bad. My neighbor has a '01 Silverado with the 5.3/4L60 that he bought in 2003. Never towed with it but appears to drive the hell out of it otherwise... and it's got 230k on the clock. I think it really depends on how it was cared for.

If you find a truck that's for sale by owner, as opposed to dealership, and it's a one or two-owner vehicle with a ton of records... screw the mileage, buy based on condition.

 

[02DFWTahoe]

So I'm seeing a lot of Yukons, Yukon XLs, Tahoes and 'Burbs in the 120k-160k mile range.

I know this has been partially answered, but what kinds of "issues" should I expect with vehicles in these mileage ranges? Water pump I've heard, anything else? Does the 4l60e transmission give any cues as to when it's starting to go bad and what would those be? Am I right in assuming that these engines can easily go over 200k?

What's interesting is that as I scan Craigslist I see a lot of high mileage vehicles (0ver 200k) going very cheaply and I'm wondering if that's because they're already starting to have problems.

I guess I'm trying to figure out if it would be better to gamble on a 220k vehicle for $3500 or take the "safe bet" and look at a 110k-130k vehicle for $10,000+.

Am I right in assuming that the transmission is the "high end" component most likely to fail? What would it cost me to have a transmission rebuilt? How robust are the electric 4wd controls on these?

I really don't think you're looking at $10,000+ for a NBS Tahoe with low miles. Including mine, I found two that had at or under 100,000 miles, I paid $5,500, the dealer wanted $7,995 for a Denali with 105k that was very clean, but still priced too high IMO. Both mine and the Denali were 4WD, in a sea of 2WD vehicles.