New Member Here

[swathdiver]

Hey new owner of a 2009 Yukon SLT here, got it last week.
We got it to replace my wife's 03 MDX and she always loves these vehicles.
It is in pretty good condition, 279000km, 1 owner only and regularly maintained by the same mechanic or dealership. She says she was changing the oil every 5000km as well.

Happy to read and learn what I can with this vehicle.

Some small things I noticed the last few days. The rear right window only goes down a small bit when controlled from its own door, but it works perfectly from the drivers control.

Also, it seems like the rear left lock actuator might need replacing? It is the only one not working at all. I still need to take panel off and make sure nothing is physically wrong. When testing the other day, the 3 that are working, started to slowly operate until they stopped completely, the more I kept pressing lock/unlock. Could this be because of the 1 actuator not working or something else?

Any other tips one might suggest as well? Thanks!

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Welcome from Florida. I've replaced all of the rear door window switches on all of my trucks by now. I get them from the Switch-Doctor on Ebay. They sell the same switch that GM uses from the Mexican factory. Or they did the last time I bought some.

To maintain this ole girl, you're going to need to be able to see what the computers inside the truck see. This, along with the shop manual will help you quickly and accurately diagnose problems. Then you can decide whether to make the repair yourself and nobody is going to get one over on ya when you know what's wrong.

Many of use bought Tech-2s, and my kids use the OBDII adapter along with the CarScanner app on their IPhones to see the internal BCM trouble codes. They can't move the windows up and down with it but can see the problem codes.

You can go on Ebay and pick up the missing little interior buttons and trim pieces and probably even the grill emblem.

How are the plugs and wires and ALL of the fluids?

 

[Airman68]

Welcome from WI! Nice rig.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Very nice find!

 

[warriah]

Welcome! I second the idea that it’s the rear door window switch, but those don’t need to be programmed to the vehicle and Amazon cheapies will do. That’s one of the rare instances where that’s the case but it’s been my experience. Common problem.

The drivers door switches do need to be programmed to the vehicle.

Welcome! I second the idea that it’s the rear door window switch, but those don’t need to be programmed to the vehicle and Amazon cheapies will do. That’s one of the rare instances where that’s the case but it’s been my experience. Common problem.

The drivers door switches do need to be programmed to the vehicle.

This is good to know. If I am unable to pull one when I go to the junk yard I'll check Amazon.

And even if I get a Dorman or a cheapie actuator for the rear left it needs to be programmed?

 

[warriah]

Welcome and Congrats on finding a rig with a 2nd row bench/couch. The BT is great and rear A/C makes having a huge black SUV completely and literally cool.

Someone had made a “if this, than that” scenario on the electric window operation that did a really good job of pointing out what’s wrong.

You’ve got the last year with the amber & red led next to back window for watching in the rear view for back up distancing, plus front door cards made to last vs 2011+ version.

My guess would be a bad master and/or pass window switch. The easy way to fix it is buy a used replacement master switch from the same trim Yukon off eBay and swap em out. Used parts are already programmed so you won’t have to have that done.

I will do a search for that thread and see what I can find. Thanks.

 

[Geotrash]

And even if I get a Dorman or a cheapie actuator for the rear left it needs to be programmed?

Nope, that's my point. The window switches for the rear doors and front passenger door do not need to be programmed to the vehicle because they're one-trick ponies. The only one that needs to be programmed is the 4 window switch module for the drivers door because it's multifunctional and its brain needs to know which options are present on the car in order to function properly.

And AFAIK, door lock actuators do not need to be programmed to the vehicle either but I could be wrong about that specifically.

 

[warriah]

Nope, that's my point. The window switches for the rear doors and front passenger door do not need to be programmed to the vehicle because they're one-trick ponies. The only one that needs to be programmed is the 4 window switch module for the drivers door because it's multifunctional and its brain needs to know which options are present on the car in order to function properly.

And AFAIK, door lock actuators do not need to be programmed to the vehicle either but I could be wrong about that specifically.

Thanks that clarifies that. My main driver side module seems to be working perfectly as far as I can tell.

 

[warriah]

I came across AFM disabler devices on Amazon in related parts, which from what I see can keep the vehicle in V8 mode all the time. Are these things actually trustworthy? I do not mind buying one to try out and see what difference it makes with gas mileage or not.

 

[j91z28d1]

they seem to work for most people, but downside from what I read is, they are always on, so can drain the battery slowly. you can accidentally bump them getting in and out, and then it goes back into 4cyl mode. depending on how long it's been since used, it might have built up varnish and stick the lifter at that point just from not being used.

also if you need to pass emissions testing, it being plugged in seems to keep it form doing it's on board tests, that the testing station will see when they plug in and ask you to go drive it till it runs it's diagnostics.

I don't have one, that's all stuff I read about them. best way is to turn it off in the computer flashed. a few different softwares can do it. hptuners, ls edit I think it's called for diy.
the black bear tune you see guys here use a lot can do it, and do a few other nice things in there like maybe make your tranny last longer with a tune for it at the same time.

there's one other place, I forget the exact name but you can mail your ecm to them they will disable it, do nothing else and return it to you for a small fee, I want to say it's under 100$.

 

[Geotrash]

there's one other place, I forget the exact name but you can mail your ecm to them they will disable it, do nothing else and return it to you for a small fee, I want to say it's under 100$.

This one: https://www.amsracing.net/collectio...ive-fuel-displacement-on-demand-delete-tuning