No output from battery stud #2

[norcalboon]

Discovered I do not have power from Stud #2 in my 2012 Yukon Denali XL. I have the integrated trailer brake so one red/black wire was already connected and I confirmed the trailer brakes were working and I was able to set the appropriate gain prior to towing. Wanted to connect the 12V charge wire (which I believe is incorrectly labeled in the below pic - there is another red/black stripe wire below the master cylinder that I believe is the charge wire). Used a voltmeter to measure the output from each stud and determined that stud #2 did not have any output - stud #1 was fine with output around 13. So I hooked up the charge wire up to stud #1 (in addition to the already connected integrated brake wire) and confirmed power to my connector, so it's charging my TT batteries now.

Questions:

1. Whats the possible cause of no power to stud #2? (I checked most relevant fuses)
2. Since I do not need to hook up the aftermarket brake controller wire, are there any issues to be concerned about with no power from stud #2?

 

[gooffeyguy]

I think you need to put in a big 30a fuse in the box also for that to work, if I remember correctly

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[Fless]

The fuse was what my NBS needed for the charge line.

EDIT: and on the NBS the charge line is always active; I would think your year works the same (YMMV). When stopped for longer periods of time I have to remember to unplug the trailer connector in order to not discharge the truck battery.

And, of course, to plug it back in before leaving.

 

[Derick]

Yup you need two fuses if you want to use those posts. One was for the trailer brake controller, the other was for the aux power line to the 7 pin connector. It's probably fine and you just need the fuse. I would hit it with some sand paper first to clean it up. If you haven't used it yet, it might be a little corroded.

 

[Doubeleive]

my 2012 didn't need a fuse, try checking again for voltage on the bottom plate instead of the bolt

 

[Derick]

my 2012 didn't need a fuse, try checking again for voltage on the bottom plate instead of the bolt

Did you buy it used?

Here's a nice video on it all:

 

[Doubeleive]

Did you buy it used?

Here's a nice video on it all:

yes, but it had never been hooked up the wires were still factory wrapped and tucked away, one owner by some corporation in Nevada

 

[swathdiver]

Clay, send me an email and I'll send you the upfitter's guide which shows how all this stuff works and how to hook it up. [email protected]

Alternately, all of this has been covered on here before and can be found through searching. You need a 40 Amp J-Case fuse to activate that circuit. It goes into the empty slot just to the right of the right side stud.

 

[norcalboon]

Clay, send me an email and I'll send you the upfitter's guide which shows how all this stuff works and how to hook it up. [email protected]

Alternately, all of this has been covered on here before and can be found through searching. You need a 40 Amp J-Case fuse to activate that circuit. It goes into the empty slot just to the right of the right side stud.

View attachment 221770

Sent you an email - thanks!

 

[norcalboon]

Was the 30A fuse for stud #1 actually.