Peddle adjustment not working!

[mikez71]

To manually power it up, you would need wires hooked up to your battery. Test for power first. I would disconnect the pedal motor and see if it still makes the same clicking sound. Also you will need to press the pedal adjust switch while you test for power.

Since you'll have your meter out, you can test the motor resistance instead. Put your leads on the motor connector pin 4&5 (what the purple and yellow wires plug into) and set it to ohm measurement. If it is shorted, it should be at or close to 0.

 

[The Grey Beast]

The shop manual and a Tech-2 are your best friend here.

 

[The Grey Beast]

So shop Manuel I found and it looks like ont that is on line. Any suggestions. Also take a look at the attached pic. All look good.? Thank you

Ken

 

[mikez71]

not sure what the "no trucks" is about. Might want to check with seller. Only sold 1 time previous so one more thing to consider.

chinacardiags.com has been mentioned before and it looks legit. They say 12V cars and trucks just no heavy duty 24V trucks

 

[denalilex]

So I think I’ve posted in the right spot. Fingers crossed.

This has been discussed before. Brake peddle adjustment not working. It makes the clicking sounds like it trying to move but doesn’t. So I’ve been looking around for sites like this one like this one. I want to do the work myself but find myself being cautious working on anything like the break. That’s the last thing I want to not work. Any suggestions as to what may have caused this and how to fix. If I do take it to the dealer what is the cost of fixing this? It’s interesting to note that the stabilitrac and the peddle adjustment have had recent problems for me. These two functions are located in the same thirds panel located beneath the air conditioning panel. I guess I’m happy it’s not an engine or transmission problem/s. It’s been a recent nickel and dime scenario. Still happy with the Tahoe overall. Just shy of 150k in miles.

Thanks ahead of time.

Ken

may be unrelated to the adjustable aspect of the pedal but with the stabilitrak & the traction control on the dash - its typically your brake light switch needing replacement... its attached to the pedal & controls your brake light engagment... its a very touchy part.. if it breaks & therefor isnt aligned properly or something - it disables your cruise control, traction control & stabilitrak & youll have service messages on your DIC for service stabilitrak & service traction control ... its a $15 part on amazon & beyond simple to repalce... theyre prone to breaking so its not a major concern if it has... its attached directly to your brake pedal in driver foot well ... if you get down & look under your dash & follow up the brake pedal arm - youll see a rectangular-ish little box thing about idk 4-5 inches in length... attched with one single bolt & nut thru the "brake light switch retaining clip".. thats it. it wont look physically broken, usually... just the sensor electronically fails. amazon has the part... so do all the major auto parts stores... this particular part is pretty comparable price wise at both amazon & in the retail stores.

have you pulled codes? you should have something stored if you were getting the stabilitrak & traction DIC messages. if you have one for brake light switch voltage or performance... thats the part im talking about.


hope this helps.

 

[denalilex]

ps sorry if that was already mentioned... then you can just ignore me lol

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah the China diag site seems to be the most common. that's what I used from this site too. and then just wait till it comes. it might give you a code of what's wrong. mine told me a I have code for a stuck or shorted lumbar motor in the passenger seat. I didn't even know it was broken lol. not something I've decided to fix, but it might tell you if the motor is shorted or open before climbing under the dash. and you might even be able to request movement from the tech 2. which would eliminate the switch being bad. at that point I don't know if there's a replacement motor or not.

 

[The Grey Beast]

may be unrelated to the adjustable aspect of the pedal but with the stabilitrak & the traction control on the dash - its typically your brake light switch needing replacement... its attached to the pedal & controls your brake light engagment... its a very touchy part.. if it breaks & therefor isnt aligned properly or something - it disables your cruise control, traction control & stabilitrak & youll have service messages on your DIC for service stabilitrak & service traction control ... its a $15 part on amazon & beyond simple to repalce... theyre prone to breaking so its not a major concern if it has... its attached directly to your brake pedal in driver foot well ... if you get down & look under your dash & follow up the brake pedal arm - youll see a rectangular-ish little box thing about idk 4-5 inches in length... attched with one single bolt & nut thru the "brake light switch retaining clip".. thats it. it wont look physically broken, usually... just the sensor electronically fails. amazon has the part... so do all the major auto parts stores... this particular part is pretty comparable price wise at both amazon & in the retail stores.

have you pulled codes? you should have something stored if you were getting the stabilitrak & traction DIC messages. if you have one for brake light switch voltage or performance... thats the part im talking about.


hope this helps.

Denalilex big help with a good idea. I’ll keep it in mind. Don’t have a Tech 2 yet but when I do I know it will come on handy. I fully expect that when I resolve this issue I’ll be sure to share the results.

Thank you for reaching out. Please do anytime.

Ken

 

[The Grey Beast]

yeah the China diag site seems to be the most common. that's what I used from this site too. and then just wait till it comes. it might give you a code of what's wrong. mine told me a I have code for a stuck or shorted lumbar motor in the passenger seat. I didn't even know it was broken lol. not something I've decided to fix, but it might tell you if the motor is shorted or open before climbing under the dash. and you might even be able to request movement from the tech 2. which would eliminate the switch being bad. at that point I don't know if there's a replacement motor or not.

Thank you both for the good idea and link. One more thing to ask. Could you link the one that is for a Chevy Tahoe 2011. I found the site and yeah there is a lot to look at. Just point me to the one I need. I may cancel out my Amazon purchase.

Thank you all.

Ken

 

[j91z28d1]

I found the link off this site in this thread.

Tech2 questions, Stabilitrack/TC issues 08 2500

So, let me start by saying that I started by searching. However, this has lead to more questions than answers. First off I have a 08 2500 Suburban, 6.0l, 4x4, etc. Last week when returning from the Airport the Stabilitrack and traction control messages came up. This happened right after...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I got I got this one.. it was a little cheaper because it didn't come with a plastic carrying case. I kinda wish I would have got the case one.

Cheap GM Tech2/ Saab Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner Full Package

GM TECH2 Scanner Full package comes with free TIS2000 Software, you can choose one kind of software for GM, SAAB, OPEL, SUZUKI, ISUZU, and Holden.

www.chinacardiags.com

and here's a super long thread with tons of info and a good place to ask questions about the unit itself https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/tech-2-purchase.111719/