Poor AC performance - Heat turns on automatically

[nimrod.sixty9]

So after a full flush of all lines, replacement of clogged orifice tube, vacuum and recharge I still have poor AC performance. 40/150psi @90* Front vents (and floor because it wouldnt stop blowing there) were less then 90, but rear was hot.
After research I came across re-calibration procedures. Seems everything was working as described. Until after the process was complete. After a few seconds the AC straight up goes hot, even if I go flat out to 60*. Thoughts?
2004 Tahoe

 

[swathdiver]

So after a full flush of all lines, replacement of clogged orifice tube, vacuum and recharge I still have poor AC performance. 40/150psi @90* Front vents (and floor because it wouldnt stop blowing there) were less then 90, but rear was hot.
After research I came across re-calibration procedures. Seems everything was working as described. Until after the process was complete. After a few seconds the AC straight up goes hot, even if I go flat out to 60*. Thoughts?
2004 Tahoe

Are there any BCM codes? If you have a bi-directional scan tool, you should be able to see the commanded and actual state of the actuators and then command them into position if they are out of position, assuming the motors still work.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

Are there any BCM codes? If you have a bi-directional scan tool, you should be able to see the commanded and actual state of the actuators and then command them into position if they are out of position, assuming the motors still work.

That I dont have.
It seems to have stabilized, and unfortunately Ive discovered a new issue, it seems previous owners have done some hack job to the evap enclosure. I feel a lot of heat coming out of their not so great patch job. Now off to find a tear down of the enclosure.
Still issue with rear AC tho. Maybe expansion valve?

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

Pulled off all the garbage. They had some other plastic that was terrible at sealing. Also feel like there is too much gap around the evap. ie air flow bypassing the evap. Would some of that expanding foam sealant work good in this instance?

 

[89Suburban]

Pulled off all the garbage. They had some other plastic that was terrible at sealing. Also feel like there is too much gap around the evap. ie air flow bypassing the evap. Would some of that expanding foam sealant work good in this instance?

I would worry about molding issues if going to use foam. Maybe pickup some vinyl or plastic sheeting, or some kind of plastic laying around the garage like old oil jugs or trash can lid or something. Trim to fit and build a new cover using silicone adhesive?

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

I would worry about molding issues if going to use foam. Maybe pickup some vinyl or plastic sheeting, or some kind of plastic laying around the garage like old oil jugs or trash can lid or something. Trim to fit and build a new cover using silicone adhesive?

The foam Im referring to is for home insulation so I would think (hope) it is very mold resistant.
As for plastic, that is what was on there. With it there was at least 1 1/2 gap for air to flow around the evap. IDK if that would be by design as I dont have another enclosure to compare to. I already taped it back up, seems a little cooler, but air flow is still quite terrible. Evap and blower look off the shelf new.

Ive also noticed the blower is quite slow to start up. Dont know if that is common or sign of another issue.

 

[Eod1]

I hate to say this because I know we are all looking to save money. Saving money means spending it somewhere else I get it. Unfortunately out here in AZ it's already 111 degrees right now and I have to have air conditioning that works and my time is money. Like I said I hate to say this but take it the chevy and say fix this. It might cost 1k or 2k but when their done it will be back to factory and blowing cold as ****. Anything else I would say do it your self and save as much as possible but a working airconditioner is a must have. My dog will not ride with me if he isn't cold. He is my number 1 the wife is number 2

 

[Eod1]

O also if you get Dynamat and put it in the ceiling, floor doors and side. Basically cover everything it will help keep the cool air in and hot air out. It's a little salty but it a one time buy. Best thing you can do for the money.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

I hate to say this because I know we are all looking to save money. Saving money means spending it somewhere else I get it. Unfortunately out here in AZ it's already 111 degrees right now and I have to have air conditioning that works and my time is money. Like I said I hate to say this but take it the chevy and say fix this. It might cost 1k or 2k but when their done it will be back to factory and blowing cold as ****. Anything else I would say do it your self and save as much as possible but a working airconditioner is a must have. My dog will not ride with me if he isn't cold. He is my number 1 the wife is number 2

No thanks. The whole truck was 1500 and I can work on my vehicles all day. I have fixed numerous AC systems but there are particular things in every vehicle, hence why I asked here. No AC tech would have likely known about the blend door reset procedure. Trying to figure out if there is something else that I might not know about in these trucks. My guess is the compressor is weak and the blend door actuator is going bad.

 

[swathdiver]

So after a full flush of all lines, replacement of clogged orifice tube, vacuum and recharge I still have poor AC performance. 40/150psi @90* Front vents (and floor because it wouldnt stop blowing there) were less then 90, but rear was hot.
After research I came across re-calibration procedures. Seems everything was working as described. Until after the process was complete. After a few seconds the AC straight up goes hot, even if I go flat out to 60*. Thoughts?
2004 Tahoe

How often do you get over to Fort Pierce and Port Saint Lucie? If you can get to me, I don't mind putting my Tech-2 on it to have a look around.