proactive instead of reactive - another AFM delete

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swathdiver

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  • 16 Delphi LS7-Style Lifters (28-25341990)

do any of you have a strong recommendation for spark plug wires that are not weak.

I would hold out for real LS7 lifters, accepting no substitutes. Other than that, the stock ones are just fine for 6,500 rpms.

748UU for the OE spark plug wires. My daughter wanted red wires for her truck so we bought SUM-867828R from Summit and they are just fine.

As for the engine oil pump, use 12710303 for your iron block LMG or LY5.
 

iamdub

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boy, i was hoping you and swath would chime in to give an attaboy or slap upside the head.

You haven't done anything to earn a dope slap yet. But keep trying. We're all watching.


aight, bolt order changed to. i have a new thermostat on the list as well, along with spark plugs and the other fringe items. i did read through some of your build post but its like 50+ pages long so...daym. ill look though it for that grommet trick.

Yeah, my delete stuff starts on something like Page 48 or 49. The grommet stuff is way after since I had about about two years and 15K miles on it following the delete. I can't remember if I posted that and the pics in my build thread or in another one, like the "What did you do to your NNBS GMT900..." thread. I'll look for it and post a link if I find it. In case you don't already know, get your spark plugs from a trusted source. They are a hot item to be counterfeited and can be detrimental in a failure. When you find 'em for half price on Amazon, they're pretty much guaranteed to be fake. I bought my NGK Iridiums on eBay for about half price from a guy that just had a set, not a store with a huge stock. Had him send me clear pics of the boxes and plugs. They were legit. This was almost three years ago, though.


and thats why im going with it. just a simple plug and play. TSP only offers the LM7 option on cams but everywhere ive read, even places outside this forum, for my year and what im doing, everyone points to an L33 cam.

Yup. I had an L33 for mine before a friend screwed me by selling me a TSP Stage2 for $100. The L33 has the same lobes as the stock cam, just without the smaller AFM lobes and has a 3-bolt gear pattern.


yea i have brendans page bookmarked for this specific reason. the mans updates the date on it periodically so thats a great warm and fuzzy knowing im not sending my trucks brain to a silent dead address.

I have no personal experience with them but a couple forum members have used them with no problems. For $60, it's a deal. For a non-warranteed vehicle, I'd use their service long before a $200 plug-in module.


in about 3 years this is supposed to become mine and mine only when we update to another newer ride for the wife and thats when ill probably pull the whole engine myself. then...ooooooh man, ima do things to it. if only i could find a way to stick a T56 in it, mmmm boy.

I've always wanted more gears and looked hard at a 6L80E swap. A manual swap would be easier than getting all the factory functions (cluster screen, tap up/tap down, etc.) of the 6L to work.


the oil in this thing has been changed religiously every 5k miles or before, never over. ive been wondering if i should bother with a head job (giggidy) and just change the springs/seals - lap the valves myself since i already do that on my bike.

Short of having the heads CNC'ed for more flow, there are some easy improvements to be had with some minor hand porting and bowl blending. I wouldn't bother with any of that if running a stock cam. I wanted to have mine shaved to get them to the advertised 64cc chambers (my guy only took 'em to 65cc, meaning they were much larger than advertised). If you'll be cleaning the piston tops, block deck and intake manifold, I think having the heads completely spotless makes sense. You can have this done professionally with a hot soak or DIY after lapping the valves.


ok cool. ill see how far along ill get with all this and contemplate a catch can set up. (****, my bike needs one before she gets one, shit aint fair).

I have a catchcans.com one because I bought it about ten years ago for a past project and never used it until I got the Tahoe. Since then, the same functional design can be had for $15-$20. I put a $15 Amazon special on my brother's truck and it does ever bit as good as my $100+ can. Add a $2 stainless scrubber pad and it'll work even better. If you get the cheap one, just make sure the baffle on the inside is stainless or aluminum. There are some steel ones out now and those rust. The bodies are all aluminum and the same, so you have to specifically shop by the baffle and port configuration.
 
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iamdub

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I would hold out for real LS7 lifters, accepting no substitutes. Other than that, the stock ones are just fine for 6,500 rpms.

748UU for the OE spark plug wires. My daughter wanted red wires for her truck so we bought SUM-867828R from Summit and they are just fine.

As for the engine oil pump, use 12710303 for your iron block LMG or LY5.

I thought TSP had OEM "LS7" lifters. Looking at their site, it specifies that they are a REPLACEMENT for the OEM ones and also that there is NO MANUFACTURER WARRANTY ON THIS PRODUCT. I'd bet that TSP would at least use a quality substitute, but there's still enough of a chance to give me an uneasy feeling.

These seem more promising, if they're not lying about the actual manufacturer: https://www.lsxceleration.com/delphi-gm-ls7-lifters-25341990-16/ Maybe even these: https://www.stevemorrisengines.com/...25341990-gm-ls7-hydraulic-roller-lifters.html

Otherwise, it's $400 for alleged OE ones from Summit or Brian Tooley.

Oh, @cplurbz, speaking of lifters, make damned sure those "LS2 lifter trays" from TSP are OEM and not any form of aftermarket.
 

iamdub

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...Found it:

 
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cplurbz

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I would hold out for real LS7 lifters, accepting no substitutes. Other than that, the stock ones are just fine for 6,500 rpms.

748UU for the OE spark plug wires. My daughter wanted red wires for her truck so we bought SUM-867828R from Summit and they are just fine.

As for the engine oil pump, use 12710303 for your iron block LMG or LY5.

well...TSP does offer "real" LS7 lifters in the form of $400 chevy performance LS7 lifters. i was inder the impression that Delphi or AC Delco was the bar that you shouldnt go under.

I thought TSP had OEM "LS7" lifters. Looking at their site, it specifies that they are a REPLACEMENT for the OEM ones and also that there is NO MANUFACTURER WARRANTY ON THIS PRODUCT. I'd bet that TSP would at least use a quality substitute, but there's still enough of a chance to give me an uneasy feeling.

These seem more promising, if they're not lying about the actual manufacturer: https://www.lsxceleration.com/delphi-gm-ls7-lifters-25341990-16/ Maybe even these: https://www.stevemorrisengines.com/...25341990-gm-ls7-hydraulic-roller-lifters.html

Otherwise, it's $400 for alleged OE ones from Summit or Brian Tooley.

Oh, @cplurbz, speaking of lifters, make damned sure those "LS2 lifter trays" from TSP are OEM and not any form of aftermarket.

yea both of those are whats offered by the TSP kit, the Delphi 25341990. then they offer the chevy performance $400 sons of bitches. im sure the $400 are better but is it overkill?

ill have to call TSP and ask about the trays. anytime i googled those the manufacturers were spotty and all of them elsewhere stated "OEM style".
 
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cplurbz

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...Found it:


hell yea thank you
 
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cplurbz

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In case you don't already know, get your spark plugs from a trusted source.

those are coming from summit bud. im not amazoning or ebaying any damn thing unless i absolutely can not find it.

A manual swap would be easier than getting all the factory functions (cluster screen, tap up/tap down, etc.) of the 6L to work.

...wait, thats actually been done? thats a shitload of center console to rip out.
 

iamdub

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yea both of those are whats offered by the TSP kit, the Delphi 25341990. then they offer the chevy performance $400 sons of bitches. im sure the $400 are better but is it overkill?

I think the Chevy Performance ones are the honest OEM "LS7" lifters. I don't think they're any different or better than what they install from the factory. They're just the honest-to-goodness, real deal known "good" lifters. The lack of supply is why they're so expensive. Essentially, you're paying for the peace of mind.


ill have to call TSP and ask about the trays. anytime i googled those the manufacturers were spotty and all of them elsewhere stated "OEM style".

This has been a problem everywhere. Everything is a "style" or "replacement" of the actual item you're wanting and the wording is so unclear that you have to contact the seller directly and use weasel lawyer terms to try to find out the truth.

At least you're aware and proceeding with caution.
 

iamdub

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...wait, thats actually been done? thats a shitload of center console to rip out.

Manual swap has been done in a few GMT800s. @Dantheman1540 has one.

I know a T56 (and the like) has been done in GMT900 trucks, but I don't know of any SUVs ("wagons"). I'd find a center console from another vehicle or mod mine to make the shifter work. That'd be the least of my worries. I'm pretty sure that, with the aftermarket support of the T56 (and TR6060), a shifter relocation can be sorted out.
 

89Suburban

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