proactive instead of reactive - another AFM delete

[cplurbz]

Well on the fuel line bracket, I figured it was there just keep stuff "in place", maybe
during assembly or something... I did Not put mine back on when I had the heads off..
On the timing chain, Yes that's it.. The plastic rubbing type eventually wears off
and spits shit into the engine... But yours looks "loose" (the chain) to me...
If I were this far on yours I'd put a new OE chain on for sure. Doesn't have to be
a GM brand, but just an oe replacement

To add, the LS2 "bowtie" chain tension is just to keep it from Whipping when
accel or decel, not to keep "slack" out of it like the orig

yea i should replace it. i dont know why i didnt pre order it with my other shit. that and i dont look forward to pulling/ installing a new crank sprocket. im sure thats not gonna be a pain in the ass.

it was all just a dry run anyway cause i was concerned with the end difference between the one bolt stock cam and sprocket and the new 3 bolt L33 cam and sprocket.

the old cam had a longer "nose" on it, between where the sprocket mounts and the first bearing journal. i measured the thrust plates, cams, and sprockets. luckly they both have the same gap of, what it appears to me and my old mics is a gap between the sprocket and first journal of .175 with both new and old plates being .160.

i might be off a little cause the last time i had my mics cal'ed was 4 years ago but im ok with both of them having the same measurements after going between the two 3 times.

 

[Foggy]

I'm pretty sure that if you go with just the stock chain, you can just replace the chain itself..
You would not need to remove the lower sprocket.. Just the upper cam sprocket which you've done already

 

[cplurbz]

I'm pretty sure that if you go with just the stock chain, you can just replace the chain itself..
You would not need to remove the lower sprocket.. Just the upper cam sprocket which you've done already

im just goin by ol' man-well here, and hes sayin "timing chains must be replaced as a set. never put a new chain on old sprockets."

 

[Foggy]

im just goin by ol' man-well here, and hes sayin "timing chains must be replaced as a set. never put a new chain on old sprockets."

I'm really the same, but on these gen 4 engines I guess the sprockets are really robust..
Do some more research... That gear shouldn't be that hard to remove either.. You've done
all the hard work already
When I did my cam/lifters/head work... I had a new oil pump and chain all ready but I just
didn't want to drop the oil pan (on my back).. And my tensioner and chain looked really good
and oil pressures always rock solid. So I didn't. Did this this spring w 115k. I'm 2nd owner

 

[cplurbz]

so man-well is tellin me how to go about this the right way, but im wondering as hes talkin, hes not mentioning putting loctite on anything other than the head bolts- which new ones already came with poop on them.

not on the cam bolts, thrust plate, harm bolt, both pumps- nothin. just sendem home as is, other than puttin a dap of lube under the bolt heads to prevent chattering- something harley man-wells actually tell you to do.

ARP talkin bout wantin me to buy their lube which is not available to me anywhere and with the holidays, im not keen on waiting on it.

anyone got a problem usin regular ol' nickle plate? or am i to just ******** this all together?

 

[Geotrash]

so man-well is tellin me how to go about this the right way, but im wondering as hes talkin, hes not mentioning putting loctite on anything other than the head bolts- which new ones already came with poop on them.

not on the cam bolts, thrust plate, harm bolt, both pumps- nothin. just sendem home as is, other than puttin a dap of lube under the bolt heads to prevent chattering- something harley man-wells actually tell you to do.

ARP talkin bout wantin me to buy their lube which is not available to me anywhere and with the holidays, im not keen on waiting on it.

anyone got a problem usin regular ol' nickle plate? or am i to just ******** this all together?

When I did mine, I used blue Loctite on any bolts where them backing out would cause catastrophic failure - like the cam thrust plate bolts, for example. Unless they were ARP bolts, and in that case I followed their instructions to the letter.

The ARP lube is critical for reaching the proper torque specs on their bolts. That's not one I would mess with and you should be able to find some at the local NAPA store or maybe even Autozone.

On the crank sprocket, I'm with the others here. Just replace the chain and use a bowtie tensioner. I looked into changing out the crank sprocket but could see no discernible wear on my original. So far, so good for the last 20K.

 

[Just Fishing]

im just goin by ol' man-well here, and hes sayin "timing chains must be replaced as a set. never put a new chain on old sprockets."

I always understood the same, always as a set.

Same mentality with putting broken in lifters into the exact same hole in the block.
Does it matter?
Probably not, but I guess it could have weird wear characteristics that could affect the new part?

but on that logic, new part on a new should be fine right?

Who knows, but it's cheap enough to just do it as a full kit.

 

[Just Fishing]

When I did mine, I used blue Loctite on any bolts where them backing out would cause catastrophic failure - like the cam thrust plate bolts, for example. Unless they were ARP bolts, and in that case I followed their instructions to the letter.

The ARP lube is critical for reaching the proper torque specs on their bolts. That's not one I would mess with and you should be able to find some at the local NAPA store or maybe even Autozone.

On the crank sprocket, I'm with the others here. Just replace the chain and use a bowtie tensioner. I looked into changing out the crank sprocket but could see no discernible wear on my original. So far, so good for the last 20K.

This
And ARP calls out the exact Loctite to use inside of the engine.
I think this one was with their flywheel bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q5GOE4

I used that on just about every bolt

 

[cplurbz]

welp, i think i did a thing. pushed the gas down and cranked it for 10 seconds to get the oil around. let off and it started right up. no sputters, no kicks, no weird noises, vibrations, and best of all, no check engine light.

oil pressure is fantastic...much fantastic. infact i have a question.

man-well says a min oil pressure, so uhh, is there a max? at idle with it cold i get 42, which is normal. hot im at 37, again normal from before teardown.

but while crusing im at 50. and if i get on it itll rise to 60. i don't recall it ever gettin that high. and its a whole lot better than low oil pressure. but id ask since thats the only thing i see.

got back from the 10 mile ride and changed the oil. no sparkly stuff.

 

[iamdub]

welp, i think i did a thing. pushed the gas down and cranked it for 10 seconds to get the oil around. let off and it started right up. no sputters, no kicks, no weird noises, vibrations, and best of all, no check engine light.

oil pressure is fantastic...much fantastic. infact i have a question.

man-well says a min oil pressure, so uhh, is there a max? at idle with it cold i get 42, which is normal. hot im at 37, again normal from before teardown.

but while crusing im at 50. and if i get on it itll rise to 60. i don't recall it ever gettin that high. and its a whole lot better than low oil pressure. but id ask since thats the only thing i see.

got back from the 10 mile ride and changed the oil. no sparkly stuff.

Those pressures are excellent. Definitely not low and nowhere near too high.

Mine used to kiss 80 at 6,000 RPM. I changed up my oil formulation to yield a 10W-40 equivalent and now it maxes out in the 70s. I hit 6000 RPM a lot.