wjburken
Supporting Member
That’s why you put a sheet of 1/2” sheet of plywood on the ground first.
Range of cost for rear main seal job at a shop?
- Thread starter Charlie207
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Scott in AZ
Full Access Member
I don’t really know what a torque converter is except I gather it’s the twisting energy transfer between the engine and the transmission. And the main seal must be the seal between the Engine and the torque converter? Or is the torque converter a sub-assembly inside the transmission and the main seal is the seal between the engine and transmission?
I’ve heard different recommendations on the torque converter. If my transmission is running fine at 171K miles, with no leaking, should I proactively replace the Torque Converter and main seal? Or at this point should I just wait for the tranny to have problems before opening it up? What do you guys think?
I’ve heard different recommendations on the torque converter. If my transmission is running fine at 171K miles, with no leaking, should I proactively replace the Torque Converter and main seal? Or at this point should I just wait for the tranny to have problems before opening it up? What do you guys think?
This particular conversation about replacing the torque converter only applies to the GMT900 and the 6L80 transmission. Your 2001 with the 4L60 doesn't have the same problem.
To clarify though, the rear main seal is the oil seal around the crankshaft between the crankcase and the flywheel. The torque converter bolts to the flywheel and transfers power via fluid between the engine and transmission. It primarily is needed to allow the engine to idle while the vehicle is stationary but as engine RPM increases it transfers increasingly more of the engine's rotation into rotation of the rest of the transmission and drivetrain. It is technically part of the transmission assembly and is essentially a turbine disk and stator.
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
Valve cover gaskets and oil pressure sensor are recently done. (oil pressure sensor is the leak, i think)
Does the VLOM need to be changed if it's not leaking? (or, also if it's been deactivated from BB tune?).
wjburken
Supporting Member
The VLOM doesn’t need to be changed. The reason it was mentioned is there have been a number of cases where the bolts holding the VLOM down have loosed up overtime, letting oil leak out. If you have the intake off already to check the torque on the VLOM bolts, might not be a bad idea to take the VLOM off and replace the o-rings under there.
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
How much does a 6L80 w/2-speed transfer case weigh? (for science)
Probably a lot more than the last time I removed/refitted a gearbox... the Saab 9000 5-speed was probably 125lbs, and three of us just lifted it up over our heads and slammed it home. Then I looked over and saw the new slave cylinder sitting on the cart, so we got to do that twice.
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wjburken
Supporting Member
I'm not familiar with the transfer cases in the later gens but the earlier NP246 two-speed TCs run around 80 lbs. Just the transfer case.
Agreed. But the reason I mentioned changing the VLOM was twofold: 1/ As you note it's the source of leaks, and it has an integrated gasket so it's easiest to replace the whole thing if the intake is off. 2/ There is an updated design that solves some of the root causes of AFM failure so in case his was still active, the new design with brand new components would add reliability.
