Rear Axle Bearing

[m610]

Last week while driving (1996 Tahoe) to Petaluma I suddenly got a noise out of the right rear that sounded to me like a bearing. I still haven't taken anything apart, waiting to learn more about what I am getting myself into. It should be an adventure.

If it is the axle bearing, it is available from Rock Auto as part of a kit that includes an axle and seal.

Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1996,tahoe,5.7l+v8,1061356,drivetrain,axle+shaft,10439

The list is a bit confusing for me and I'm not sure if these are all the same part, just with different descriptions.

The relevant RPO Code for my Tahoe is G80, which translates as limited slip/positraction.

Can I get any advice on which Rock Auto part is the right one, and has anyone done this job before.

Also, I have the service manuals and it talks about several specialized tools for getting the bearing and seal in and out. Can I get by okay without them?

Thanks in Advance, Mike

 

[OR VietVet]

More Information for RICHMOND 9225115

Stay away from Dorman. This link looks good to me. You may only need the bearing and seal but the price in the link is not that bad. The replacement is not that hard. Remove the cover, you will see a threaded cross pin and take it out, the remove the shaft that the cross pin held in by sliding it out, then push the axle in at the hub, a "C" clip is at end of the shaft that will fall off, remove the shaft, remove the seal and bearing with a slide hammer tool set, install the bearing with a driver kit and then the seal and then reverse the steps for the axle shaft and install the cover and fill with correct fluid. Plenty of you tube videos about all this.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

^^x2^^ Also, you can rent (sometimes for free) the slide hammer and bearing installation driver kit from a local auto parts store.

 

[m610]

Thanks for the replies. You make it sound doable without special tools.

I've done this job several times on my Opels (post-69, no c-clip) so I'm generally familiar with the procedure.

Why not Dorman?

Mike

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks for the replies. You make it sound doable without special tools.

I've done this job several times on my Opels (post-69, no c-clip) so I'm generally familiar with the procedure.

Why not Dorman?

Mike

It seems that well over 50% of the time, when Dorman parts are used on member's rigs, they have had problems with quality. The only special tools recommended would be the bearing slide hammer removal tool and bearing install tool and the seal driver. The seal removal is easy because as you slide the axle out, you just use the tip of the axle, where the "C" clip was at, and just use that to pry the seal out as you remove. As @Joseph Garcia stated, the special tools can be rented at some auto parts suppliers. The bearing installer/driver and seal driver would be the same tool.

 

[Eman85]

Before you start get some good Karma going. The bolt that holds the cross pin sometimes breaks off, if when you unbolt it all you get is the head and threads you're not going to have a good day. If it comes out fine when you put it back use a drop of Loctite on it. Before you remove the pin turn the carrier so you can see the C clip then pull the pin push the axle inboard and remove the C clip. Try to avoid having the pinion gears rotate out of place. When you pull the axle look carefully at the surface the bearing and the seal rides on. If it's damaged or grooved you might need an axle, if not polish it with fine emory cloth. If one side is bad the other might not be far behind.

 

[OR VietVet]

As @Eman85 said, when you do go to take the cross pin/bolt out and is broken, the day just went to crap. Sometimes you can get a pick in there and work it out by unthreading but that is rare. What I have seen people do is turn the carrier 180 degrees and then using a 2 jaw puller, center punch the surface of the cross shaft and then using an impact push that cross shaft out the other side but only about an inch. That would be toward the front of the rig. Then spin the carrier so the cross shaft is exposed with the 1" stub staring you in the face. Grab it and wiggle it out to be able to push the axle in for "C" clip removal. The rest of the cross pin will be inside the cross shaft and the smooth nub will be in the carrier. If cross shaft is reusable you just need the cross pin but may have to buy a new cross shaft as well. I have seen a chip come out of the carrier during this procedure but never seen a carrier damaged where it could not be used.

 

[Eman85]

I have done what MO VietVet said, sometimes it works, sometimes not so good. The carrier can break as it's cast, that's when your day goes from crap to worse. Another thing to be careful of is the cross pin is hardened and can chip and send pieces flying. For your sake I hope your pin and everyone else's comes out clean.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yep, it is a last resort thing to do but MOST of the time the softer cross pin shears and it comes apart, but not always.

 

[m610]

It looks like I'll have to get the axle out before I can figure out which to buy. Large or small OD bearing, for example.