rear brakes need to be done? Need help diagnosing...

[JubjubW]

So I have yet to take the rear tires off to take a look at my brakes, but I did get into the diff via the fill hole and there is plenty of fluid in it...

Anyways... as of last week my truck started acting funny, I would put it in drive from starting it up and it wouldnt move at all, unless I hit the gas, then it would slow down real fast. I would get it up to speed, stop at a stop sign, and it would roll from there (no resistance). So I took it from a cold start again, and upon leaving my alleyway I SLOWLY pressed the brake pedal and as it got closer to stopping I could hear a strange sound... wish I could properly describe it but it sounds like metal on metal, but no rough grinding like you would hear from disk brakes, rather smooth metal rubbing on smooth metal. The wheel bearings feel fine, there is no movement when I grab the top and bottom of the rear tires and try to rock it back and forth, how ever if I grab the tire and pull it STRAIGHT towards me, it does move ever so slightly... my dad told me it was because of the C-clip holding the axle shaft in? the front brakes are fine, brand new and wearing perfect (replaced everything when they were done). The rear brakes have not been touched in like two years? Maybe more than that.

If I move a little, and press the brakes, and repeat this process several times the tires move freely when in Drive so I'm not sure if something is just stuck back there and gets loosened while driving it and once its parked it goes back to being stuck until i hit the gas.

Not sure if this is normal too? In park, with the rear jacked up I can spin the rear tires with a little force, but once I hit the e-brake they are solid and will not move at all...

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

First, with the rear of the truck jacked up and the Ebrake engaged you say that they are solid, but do they release easily when you release the Ebrake? Or do they continue to grab after releasing the brake? It is POSSIBLE that you have a EBrake shoe that has come apart inside the rear break hub, but you would need to remove them to inspect them to be sure.

That being said, with the rear jacked up, if you can pull OUT on the wheel (either side) and have it move toward you AT ALL then something isn't right. Yes, it could be the "C-clip" that is suppose to hold the axle in place, but there could be more going on.

In a nutshell, remove the rear wheels and hubs and inspect the Ebrake shoes. If they check out fine, then drain the rear differential and inspect the ends of the axles and the gears for damage and go from there.

 

[gpracer1]

What year is this truck? 92-99?
There are only brake shoes, no "ebrake shoes".

It is possible that some of the brake hardware is broken, such as a spring or retaining post or the shoes are just gone and it is metal to metal on the drum.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Sorry, I didn't look at the year in the section head. I was thinking along the lines of rear discs.

 

[gpracer1]

Sorry, I didn't look at the year in the section head. I was thinking along the lines of rear discs.

We all wish we had rear disc brakes!!!

 

[JubjubW]

well hopefully this weekend I have time to take the drums off... uncertain at this point.

when I said the tire moves in and out, I mean both sides move equally, not, for instance, pull the top towards me, the bottom goes in, but rather I have to have both hands on the inside of the tire and I can pull it towards me slightly...

First thing first, I should take the drums off and inspect

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

I just have rotors on the brain lately...lol

 

[noJeepshere]

Having the rear tire move in and out a little (<1/8") is ok, as there is a C-clip holding the axle in place. It's that axles weak spot, cheap, poor design. Anyways, the best way to check the bearings short of pulling the axleshafts out, is when you have the drums off, grab the flange and pull it up, a tiny bit of movement is ok, but any more than the slightest bit (like, >1/64") and you should consider changing them out. Not overly difficult, but time consuming and dirty.

Do you use the parking brake? Because your symptoms sound like a sticking parking brake cable. Over time, road crap gets in the cable housing and causes it to get stiff. Or, it could be the internals in the brake itself are rusty, and thus sticking. Because it won't move first thing, then later it's just fine, sounds like the internals are going. You'll know soon enough.

And if you do use the parking brake, I would recommend that, unless you park on a steep slope, not to use it, especially in winter, when moisture will freeze in the brake and you'll never move! Happened quite often where I went to school, all the Arizona and California kids couldn't move their cars half the winter because of that.

Also, drum brakes usually require very little maintenance, ever, other than the occasional adjustment. The drums on my Yukon were replaced at 90,000 miles, and I now have 195,000 miles on it, and they're maybe half worn.

 

[JubjubW]

thanks for the info nojeepshere, I'll make sure I check those out this weekend!

well new symptoms...

after driving to work, I got underneath the truck and felt the brake drums... the drivers side was hot as could be, I couldnt keep my my hand on it, the passenger was cool to the touch... probably things sticking

 

[noJeepshere]

thanks for the info nojeepshere, I'll make sure I check those out this weekend!

well new symptoms...

after driving to work, I got underneath the truck and felt the brake drums... the drivers side was hot as could be, I couldnt keep my my hand on it, the passenger was cool to the touch... probably things sticking

You found your problem! Classic example of a sticky brake. To see if it's the parking brake cable, pull everything off and measure across the shoes, then engage the parking brake, measure again, then release the brake and measure again. You'll find the the driver side probably won't move back very much.