Rear main Seal

[lspann3525]

Mines not coming off that easy. When I use the ratchet and socket the flywheel starts to spin.

On my old Ford I could jam and extension or screw driver in the access spot. I tried a screwdriver but it may of not been big enough.

 

[89Suburban]

I don't remember this being all that difficult. I didn't have to use any special tools. I may have manually put the transmission into park to lock it in place while undoing the bolts, but I don't think I even had to do that. I may have given the wrench a good sharp wack to break torque.

This video was useful for me:

This video was made after I did mine, and it shows removing the flywheel nuts at 10:50 min:

Man o man I surely do NOT miss that bullSHT. Gettin old.

 

[Sam Harris]

I’m glad it worked out for you. My experience with Dorman has been hit or miss and considering how hard it is to replace a rear main, I won’t be taking a chance myself. My OEM was in for 150k and still not leaking when I replaced it with the same as preventive maintenance.

Agree 100%. Hell, I went with the full OE rear cover, with the rear main already installed, to take advantage of one less thing to go wrong with that extensive labor. Worth it..

 

[Rocket Man]

Mines not coming off that easy. When I use the ratchet and socket the flywheel starts to spin.

On my old Ford I could jam and extension or screw driver in the access spot. I tried a screwdriver but it may of not been big enough.

Actually, for the converter I used a big screwdriver through that access hole since you need to turn the flexplate each time you remove or install a bolt. That tool won’t work good for that, it’s meant for the harmonic balancer bolt.

 

[donjetman]

The factory must use loc-tite on them? Here's what I used, see post # 13 here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-2#post-1291646
from Harbor Freight

 

[lspann3525]

Only if my air compressor worked I got an old 230v in the garage but I can't find anyone to wire me an outlet. That's what made me get the impact.

I grabbed a 12" screwdriver from Lowes I'm gonna crawl back under later on to see if that will lock the motor.

I'm also having 2nd thoughts about the dorman like y'all said. I googled the seal and there was a bunch of people that said the seal leak right after installation.

 

[lspann3525]

I give up I guess I dont have the right tools...if I was to get an air ratchet how strong would it need to be to undo the torque converter bolts?

 

[89Suburban]

I give up I guess I dont have the right tools...if I was to get an air ratchet how strong would it need to be to undo the torque converter bolts?

Good old old school tools, leverage and determination. If you want it bad enough, it will come to you.

 

[Larryjb]

I got me one of these:

M18 FUEL™ w/ ONE-KEY™ High Torque Impact Wrench 1/2" Friction Ring (Tool Only)

www.milwaukeetool.com

It's been worth every penny. Never looked back! Saves my back on wheel lug nuts and everything. (I still use the torque wrench in the end on lug nuts etc.)

 

[lspann3525]

I have a craftsman battery powered impact wrench I'm just unable to get it in the space the front diff/frame is in the way if my impact was a little more slim I could do it. I am going to start looking for a compressor today but im not sure about the gallons and psi I will need