Recommendations for in-tank pump replacement

[FasterBass]

Hi all,

Noticed fuel smell coming from drivers rear wheel well. Read all about pump replacement already and plan to do that soon. Wanted to see if there was anything I am missing tool or parts wise BEFORE I get to the middle of the install. Right now I have the pump Delphi FG0816 for Flex Fuel vehicles (I have an LMG vin 0) and locking ring GM Genuine TR26 in my cart, along with a belt/tensioner replacement kit and the brake light switch.

Are there any specialty hose disconnect tools I need in order to get the lines off? All my FI experience is with older stuff that uses hose clamps or custom that uses earls fittings, so I don't have any special/gm specific FI tools.

Any other "while I'm in there" things that you recommend? Thanks as always for the knowledge on this forum!

 

[swathdiver]

 

[FasterBass]

Thanks! Should always figure 1A auto has it done. Anything else to replace while the tank is out?

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks! Should always figure 1A auto has it done. Anything else to replace while the tank is out?

Check the condition of all those lines. I had some originals that were rubber and not plastic that rotted away causing leaks and codes but the tank didn't have to be done for those particular ones.

 

[iamdub]

Hi all,

Noticed fuel smell coming from drivers rear wheel well. Read all about pump replacement already and plan to do that soon. Wanted to see if there was anything I am missing tool or parts wise BEFORE I get to the middle of the install. Right now I have the pump Delphi FG0816 for Flex Fuel vehicles (I have an LMG vin 0) and locking ring GM Genuine TR26 in my cart, along with a belt/tensioner replacement kit and the brake light switch.

Are there any specialty hose disconnect tools I need in order to get the lines off? All my FI experience is with older stuff that uses hose clamps or custom that uses earls fittings, so I don't have any special/gm specific FI tools.

Any other "while I'm in there" things that you recommend? Thanks as always for the knowledge on this forum!

I'm guessing yours is an '07? My '08 LMG called for Delphi FG1054 and, according to RA, it looks like everything from '08 up to '14 takes that. Maybe the '07 uses the same as the GMT800 Tahoe. Anyway, being a first year model, just wanted to make sure you had the correct one.

Of course, there are special tools for the QD fittings. But, I've never had a problem squeezing the tabs and applying inward pressure on the line going into the fitting (as if I'm trying to press it in further rather than pull it apart). This takes friction off the tabs so they can fully unlock, then you can pull the hose off the nipple. This is the same trick for the heater hose connectors at the firewall, just on a lot smaller hose.

Oh- there's a large convoluted vent hose that goes OVER a cross member and connects to the fuel pump bulk head. You have to disconnect it before you lower the tank very much. REMEMBER to route it over the cross member and clip it to the pump bulkhead before you slip the tank all the way back up into position.

 

[FasterBass]

I'm guessing yours is an '07? My '08 LMG called for Delphi FG1054 and, according to RA, it looks like everything from '08 up to '14 takes that. Maybe the '07 uses the same as the GMT800 Tahoe. Anyway, being a first year model, just wanted to make sure you had the correct one.

Of course, there are special tools for the QD fittings. But, I've never had a problem squeezing the tabs and applying inward pressure on the line going into the fitting (as if I'm trying to press it in further rather than pull it apart). This takes friction off the tabs so they can fully unlock, then you can pull the hoe off the nipple. This is the same trick for the heater hose connectors at the firewall, just on a lot smaller hose.

Oh- there's a large convoluted vent hose that goes OVER a cross member and connects to the fuel pump bulk head. You have to disconnect it before you lower the tank very much. REMEMBER to route it over the cross member and clip it to the pump bulkhead before you slip the tank all the way back up into position.

Actually an 09 - I was reading a prior thread and the 0816 was recommended. Didn't realize first year models used a different pump. Have since added the 1054 into the cart. Thanks for the tips!

 

[FasterBass]

Check the condition of all those lines. I had some originals that were rubber and not plastic that rotted away causing leaks and codes but the tank didn't have to be done for those particular ones.

I'm assuming 3/8ths fuel injection line?

 

[swathdiver]

I'm assuming 3/8ths fuel injection line?

No, it had to do with the EVAP system.

 

[iamdub]

Actually an 09 - I was reading a prior thread and the 0816 was recommended.

Link to this thread? Or do you recall why it would be recommended over the other? Or do you mean it was recommended for whatever year model was being discussed in that thread? Maybe I'm just confused cuz RA shows the '0816 for the '07. Hell, could be a mid-year thing.

 

[FasterBass]

Link to this thread? Or do you recall why it would be recommended over the other? Or do you mean it was recommended for whatever year model was being discussed in that thread? Maybe I'm just confused cuz RA shows the '0816 for the '07. Hell, could be a mid-year thing.

It was a thread for an 07 - i just didnt realize it. Pretty sure if your truck is running fine and RA says its the one then its the one ill stick with.