Replace HVAC Vent Blend Door Actuator on Driver Side

[Scott in AZ]

So I had the HVAC only blowing out the defroster only, which usually means the actuator wedged under the driver side dash had failed. I replaced with a Dorman 604-113 aftermarket actuator and think these tips and photos will be helpful.

- I removed the driver’s side kick panel under the steering wheel. Not for access but for visibility and light. It’s two 7mm screws low (left near parking brake) and two clips high. Be careful, the clips might stay in the dash. One of mine did.

- Two screws hold the actuator in place, both 5.5mm hex head.

- I was able to access and unscrew the diabolical “upper screw” using a short throw 5.5mm socket on a 3 inch extension and loosened it by hand. Based on this I tightened it only finger firm tight when reinstalling so in twenty-two years, in 2045, I’ll be able to use the same technique next time this chronic problem part fails.

- When installing the new replacement I set the failed OEM model on the floorboard in exactly same orientation as installing and this was a good reference for finding the blind upper screw.

- Like the Loch Ness Monster and Bigfoot, photo evidence would end the argument. Yes, you really can get a socket wrench on the upper screw, photos attached.

- Don’t forget to calibtate the actuator so it runs full stroke and resets the blend door actuator to “HOME”. I snapped a pic of the HVAC control and HVAC fuses I removed prior to calibration. The calibration procedure is turn HVAC switches to off, remove fuses, install actuator, reconnect electrical to the new actuator, install fuses ,
power on vehicle for 40 seconds without adjusting HVAC controls from OFF, then start HVAC. Wow was I ever happy when mine worked.

Lurked for a while, my first real thread, hope this helps.

 

[mattbta]

Nice work, great post.

Was going to recommend against Dorman for this, but realized I put a Dorman in for DS temp and checked my Amazon orders and that was 2012 and still going. This was before I knew about Dorman being a risky move for actuators and sensors. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for posting the process that you used to replace this actuator. Our collective knowledge base has been increased.

 

[Melram]

So I had the HVAC only blowing out the defroster only, which usually means the actuator wedged under the driver side dash had failed. I replaced with a Dorman 604-113 aftermarket actuator and think these tips and photos will be helpful.

- I removed the driver’s side kick panel under the steering wheel. Not for access but for visibility and light. It’s two 7mm screws low (left near parking brake) and two clips high. Be careful, the clips might stay in the dash. One of mine did.

- Two screws hold the actuator in place, both 5.5mm hex head.

- I was able to access and unscrew the diabolical “upper screw” using a short throw 5.5mm socket on a 3 inch extension and loosened it by hand. Based on this I tightened it only finger firm tight when reinstalling so in twenty-two years, in 2045, I’ll be able to use the same technique next time this chronic problem part fails.

- When installing the new replacement I set the failed OEM model on the floorboard in exactly same orientation as installing and this was a good reference for finding the blind upper screw.

- Like the Loch Ness Monster and Bigfoot, photo evidence would end the argument. Yes, you really can get a socket wrench on the upper screw, photos attached.

- Don’t forget to calibtate the actuator so it runs full stroke and resets the blend door actuator to “HOME”. I snapped a pic of the HVAC control and HVAC fuses I removed prior to calibration. The calibration procedure is turn HVAC switches to off, remove fuses, install actuator, reconnect electrical to the new actuator, install fuses ,
power on vehicle for 40 seconds without adjusting HVAC controls from OFF, then start HVAC. Wow was I ever happy when mine worked.

Lurked for a while, my first real thread, hope this helps.

Thanks for this. When I start my Yukon it has been making a weird grinding noise. I finally figured out that the noise was coming from this exact actuator. Right now if I make the position go to the top vents I don’t hear the noise but it seems that it keeps going to floor vents when I start my Yukon. Though I have the bottom air vent in the way of getting to it. I’m still trying to fathom how I need to remove it to get to the actuator.

 

[Scott in AZ]

Good luck. I still have PTSD from the whole process but my blend door actuator works fine, hopefully for another 20 years.