Rough idle

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DallasTahoe

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I've been trying to get this rough idle taken care of for about a week, new plugs, rotor, wires, cap, and timing has been adjusted. This morning I took out and cleaned the iac and no change. I have no codes. when driving and coming to a stop it drops to about 550rpm and surges up to about 650or so and does that until I accelerate. When it's not in gear it idles around 8-900rpm any thing I'm missing?


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drakon543

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Im just going to toss out some ideas until someone more knowledgeable chimes in. First you said you cleaned the iac what did you clean it with. Also those iac can just fail and a cleaning wont help. My suburban used to do the same thing and i went through the same hoops you have already mentioned. It was a tbi 5.7 but i changed the map sensor and the iat sensor as a suggestion from an older gent and it solved the problem. Next suggestion this one is a different make and engine entirely but same symptoms. 97 ford explorer 4.0 my upper intake plenum was leaking causing a vacuum leak that was just enough to effect it at an idle. You can test that with a vacuum gauge i think (not sure what it should read) or you can test it the old school method. Get a can of starting fluid and spray it around the intake and any other areas that may appear to be worn (vacuum lines and such). If there is a leak it will suck in the ether and rev up. Also get a can of maf cleaner and clean your maf sensor and the iat sensor thats next to that.
 
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DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

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Im just going to toss out some ideas until someone more knowledgeable chimes in. First you said you cleaned the iac what did you clean it with. Also those iac can just fail and a cleaning wont help. My suburban used to do the same thing and i went through the same hoops you have already mentioned. It was a tbi 5.7 but i changed the map sensor and the iat sensor as a suggestion from an older gent and it solved the problem. Next suggestion this one is a different make and engine entirely but same symptoms. 97 ford explorer 4.0 my upper intake plenum was leaking causing a vacuum leak that was just enough to effect it at an idle. You can test that with a vacuum gauge i think (not sure what it should read) or you can test it the old school method. Get a can of starting fluid and spray it around the intake and any other areas that may appear to be worn (vacuum lines and such). If there is a leak it will suck in the ether and rev up. Also get a can of maf cleaner and clean your maf sensor and the iat sensor thats next to that.

Yea I was already leaning towards the iac, but not the map, atleast not right off the bat. I used a cleaner for electronics, it didn't change how it ran so I don't know if it's any good or not. I am going to be going through and replacing all the sensors as I can, or when they fail and before they fail
 

drakon543

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Well using alcohol based cleaner or brake cleaner or carb cleaner isnt meant to clean things like the iac. Anytime your cleaning an engine electronics try to use maf cleaner. Its usually labeled as a maf cleaner but its safe for probably all engine electronics. You should still allow ample time for it to dry but anyway. The map and iat thing may only be relevant on the tbi 5.7 but it worked on my old 94 burban.
 

SunlitComet

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reset the iac and if that does not help then replace it assuming you have absolutely no vacuum leaks and not weird stuff when saying you are cruising at a constant speed anything above idle.
 
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DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

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reset the iac and if that does not help then replace it assuming you have absolutely no vacuum leaks and not weird stuff when saying you are cruising at a constant speed anything above idle.

Already reset the iac and no change, I'll replace it in a week or so, it's just the surging idle I'm having issues with, otherwise she runs good
 

SunlitComet

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then the probability is high you have a defective air related sensor or control issue or a small intermittent leak somewhere.
 
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DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

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Ok so after a little time dealing with idle surging and other driveability issues like p0300 and lately with high idle, I changed out the iac. There was still no change in the idle surging, and it actually seemed to get worse. So after thinking back to before I put the new heads on (it was running good before that) I figured everything had to be from when I changed the heads. Yesterday after work I decided to dig into it a lil bit and redid the ground on the thermo housing because it had broken before and I fixed it but this time I cleaned it really well and soldered it. I also noticed that where the injection spider comes out of the top of the intake didn't seem like it was seated well. After putting a screwdriver between the fuel pipes and the intake and pushing up slightly I noticed about a 1/4 inch of movement on the side where the fuel lines go into the injector body. The other side seems to seat with no problem. After numerous attempts at trying to get it to seat without yanking everything apart, I improvised. I got a square washer and used a screwdriver to carefully pry up on the fuel line hold down and insert the washer between the fuel line hold down and the top of the manifold. The curve of the fuel line actually helps to hold constant pressure on both sides of the washer to help hold the injection spider in place and create a seal. I'm not saying this is a perfect solution but it has made a big difference in how my truck runs, because it sealed a vacuum leak that I really couldn't find, maybe because a lot of small leaks were harder to find than one larger one. I guess this is why I found silicon in this area when I took the intake off to begin with. So if you ever have to take off the intake, make sure it seats good when putting it back on, I thought mine was fine but now it runs so much better after putting in my little (fix). In short, it's a bad design, so don't neglect checking it just because you put a new o-ring on it....


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