Rough idling..and missing.

[SammieC]

Hi having read a few threads here, I've had this problem for awhile now, rough idling, chugging at slow speeds...5 mph or so..

I replaced the normal parts, dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and had to also replace distributor due to plastic ear breaking off and no longer holding cap.

My problem..after having the engine pressurized to break injectors free, I still have a miss, not being a mechanic..I've read about the timing procedure of which obviously I didn't do correctly.

I can't find the timing disconnect wire for the life of me..it's a 1997 tahoe, looked under glove box, behind glove box, behind kick panel, on firewall on passenger side, and cannot locate wire.

I didn't disconnect this when I put the distributor back and in the android program torque it shows my timing most of the time..being advanced around 20' or so..I guess the base timing must be off, but my distributor has a fixed style connector and I imagine the only movement in the distributor would be the slop of the bolt hole and that's about it...

Any tips on how to check this?, any info is greatly appreciated..as in reading on these forums allowed me to change the distributor in the first place.

1997 tahoe 5.7l

Thanks!!

Posted this in the wrong forum, but moved it here...

 

[RedCrush]

if its advanced to 20 degrees I would ease off of it a bit then tighten the dizzy. i mean 20 degrees is alot. Atleast you know you'll be closer to +2 0 -2.

 

[Ben]

hot it with a 2 x 4

huh?

 

[retorq]

Hi having read a few threads here, I've had this problem for awhile now, rough idling, chugging at slow speeds...5 mph or so..

I replaced the normal parts, dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and had to also replace distributor due to plastic ear breaking off and no longer holding cap.

My problem..after having the engine pressurized to break injectors free, I still have a miss, not being a mechanic..I've read about the timing procedure of which obviously I didn't do correctly.

I can't find the timing disconnect wire for the life of me..it's a 1997 tahoe, looked under glove box, behind glove box, behind kick panel, on firewall on passenger side, and cannot locate wire.

I didn't disconnect this when I put the distributor back and in the android program torque it shows my timing most of the time..being advanced around 20' or so..I guess the base timing must be off, but my distributor has a fixed style connector and I imagine the only movement in the distributor would be the slop of the bolt hole and that's about it...

Any tips on how to check this?, any info is greatly appreciated..as in reading on these forums allowed me to change the distributor in the first place.

1997 tahoe 5.7l

Thanks!!

Posted this in the wrong forum, but moved it here...

The distributor on these Vortecs have to be DEAD ON. There is no play in the collar and base as you have seen ...

My advice: pull the distributor out again, verify the engine is at 0 degrees TDC on the #1 plug, line up the distributor rotor with the base, there are marks there for this, and drop it back into the engine correctly and tighten it down using the correct clamp.

Sunlit's advice: Get the older style clamp which won't engage the distributor base properly and use that, hope that it holds. If that won't work use duct tape and wood screws.

http://www.truckforum.org/forums/ch...98-chevy-silverado-5-7-vortec.html#post213752

Hey look I can cut and paste too!! LULZ

 

[SammieC]

Hi having located the other style clamp, it worked and after taking it to a mechanic....he verified that it is now correct. Thanks for the info Retorq, its very much appreciated.

But there is still a miss, I guess one of the poppet valves is continually leaking and won't hold pressure when the line is pressurized, the line just bleeds off, so its a regulator or bad injector.

My question is, after reading about the spider upgrade, it this something I can tackle myself? The mechanic want's 750.00 to fix this, yet I can find the new type spider kit on ebay for 228.00.

Again thanks for the help!!!

 

[97Tahoe2d4x]

I don't know what your mechanical skill level is but if you consider yourself "above average", it can be done.

I did mine a few months back. Just take your time, label everything before disconnecting any wires. There's a bunch of videos on swapping spider on Youtube, you might want to check them out.

$228 at ebay is a pretty good price, I got mine from Amazon for $263 and change plus free shipping.

Good luck with your project.

 

[SammieC]

Thanks after checking out a few videos and the like, I believe this is something I can do with a little help and maybe some pictures..LOl

Thanks for the info..