Rusted out & Leaking Brake lines - Brake line Diagram

[Bxcliff]

Screw the kit. just get a roll of easybent line and dont even bother trying to run them like oem.
search this forum for some write ups.

Yeah I figured I ask my friend and he told me the same, come to think about it that's how my dad and his friend replaced the rear line when it bursted before he gave this truck to me

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[OneofFew]

Trying to run it like stock is just gonna be a huge pain and doing it on the floor may be very difficult, especially with longer pieces. The only downside to running them however is that you do want to keep it from vibrating and chafing on stuff, so securing it with zip ties and maybe wrapping a piece of hose on spots is advisable. I would try to use as many stock securing clips as you can. I'd definitely use Easybend (NiCop) line. Regular steel and stainless is just too hard to reliably flare with the standard flaring tool. They use 2 different size line- 1/4 and 3/8 I think. All the fittings are metric. Good thing your dad already replaced the one going to the back axle- You have to drop the tank to get to it.... unless you run the new one outside the frame rail.

 

[Bxcliff]

Thanks for the advice, i'll keep all that in mind.

Also do you think it's a good idea to replace my master cylinder as well? I can't remember the time where the brakes were firm like my dads 08 chevy suburban, the fluid in my truck isn't the cleanest too.

 

[Z28TWITCH]

Brake hoses are much more likely the culprit, could need some pads and rotors too. When you do the front lines, especially if you use nicopp, make sure the body isn't going to crush them against the frame. Nicopp is stupid easy to work with, but it is more fragile.

 

[03suburbanite]

with the way that looks, you'll want to go ahead and replace them all now..
you or somene else will be driving and the brakes will go out..

It'll be easier if you replace them all now... because you can remove them all, then install them from right to left, and there will be no lines on the left getting in your way limiting your wrench turning space.

IMO it would be foolish not to do it all at once.. to repair one only to have another burst soon.. doing it the hard way, when you can do them all easier. The nuts are hard to find if they are the 5/16 with the 1/4 bore which i think they are.. so i'd suggest getting the preformed kit. I went the easy bend route and now i can't find the nuts.. i'm about ready to buy the preformed kit and pull this easy bend back out. My truck has been down way too long dealing with it.. luckily i have backup vehicles. As a matter of fact thats' why i'm here to see if anyone knows where to find the gdam nuts.

 

[03suburbanite]

as a matter of fact looking at those lines, i'd be surprised if you could change one without breaking the rest.
Do yourself a big favor and buy the preformed kit.. cut those off with a hacksaw and use a six point socket to remove them. be prepared to use a wrench to brace the bracked too when you go to unbolt them.

 

[OneofFew]

The standard nuts fit. No, the head is smaller, but so what? It just means you use a smaller wrench to install...

 

[JohnH57]

My front brake lines started to leak fluid on my 2003 GMC Yukon Denali and i'm fixing to replace the leaking ones for now and replace all the other rusted out lines after winter ( I live in Upstate NY)

I tried searching for a diagram for the brake lines from the abs and the rear proportioning valve so i know which lines to replace for now but couldn't find anything online, don't want to cut out the wrong ones.

Also, any tips i should know going into this job? Any help is appreciated, trying to get my truck up and running to commute to and from school when it starts to snow.

Thanks

I am in the process of replacing all the hard brake lines on my 2005 Tahoe. What I have found is that it's not as hard as it looks. I did not have to raise the body or remove the gas tank. The hardest part is getting the new pre-bent lines in the old brackets, so one tip would be: if you buy pre-bent match them to the originals as you remove them and bend the new ones to get the closest match to the originals line's shape before you snake them in. Wish I had done this as it would have saved hours.

Another tip would be to install the passenger side front line by removing the plastic cover from underneath the front of the truck and running the new line in from the front. Since it's shaped like the letter U you will be running it down both sides of the truck at once. Hope this helps.

 

[rockola1971]

Very common failure on GM trucks and SUVs. The stainless lines just dont hold up to road salt. The NiCop lines are suppose to be much more resistant to the salt. Those lines in the pics are DONE! An accident waiting to happen. I have two 2003 Tahoes and they both need all lines completely replaced. One burst about 3 years ago and the other just popped a pinhole over the driver rear wheel which leads to the rear Y a couple weeks ago. I ordered the Rockauto NiCop line set. Not a fun job at all. I have a ****** Tech 2 clone so bleeding is easy. Im afraid to go under my 05 Denali and look at its brake lines. Its probably ready for a lineset also.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

I looked at the lines on my Yukon XL - not lookin' so good. Some of the pre-formed lines in the kits don't look that difficult to maneuver into place. I think I will buy a kit plus buy a roll of nickel-copper for the tough ones.

Question - what size line line should I buy ? It looks larger than 1/4".