Is it stupid for me to SAS a 2 door tahoe that stays on the road 90% of the time?
The previous owner (POS PO) put a 4" superlift on the truck with torsion keys maxed out so he could run 37 mickey thompson tires that still rub the gay fender flares on the Tahoe Sport models. When these tires are worn, I'm going back to 35" tires so I can un-crank the torsion bars and get some cushion back in my front suspension. speed bumps are kidney busters in parking lots...it's ridiculous.
Back to the question. Ideally I could do a SAS and also replace the 10bolt rear end POS because we all know it's going out in the future running at least 35" tires and having a heavy right foot. The rear axle is relatively easy. The front axle is more painful but still doable. I've researched the hardware I need, spring size, mounts, steering options, welding work, etc. I'd like to have a Tahoe that sits as low as possible and still flexes reasonably well (4-6" uptravel). I know that will require cutting some metal. I'm okay with that. Probably my main impetus for doing the SAS is the guys at 2 different alignments shops say that with the current setup that my alignment will always be a little out of spec. They say I need longer upper control arms. Screw that, I'll just SAS it and fix that ******** problem the right way. Then I think if I'm going to SAS it, I'm going to do it all the way and have a truck that, need be, can hold its own relatively well should I choose to take it off the beaten path.
Bring on the flames (******* criticisms I mean, not ****), ideas, suggestions, etc.
grassyass
JDN
The previous owner (POS PO) put a 4" superlift on the truck with torsion keys maxed out so he could run 37 mickey thompson tires that still rub the gay fender flares on the Tahoe Sport models. When these tires are worn, I'm going back to 35" tires so I can un-crank the torsion bars and get some cushion back in my front suspension. speed bumps are kidney busters in parking lots...it's ridiculous.
Back to the question. Ideally I could do a SAS and also replace the 10bolt rear end POS because we all know it's going out in the future running at least 35" tires and having a heavy right foot. The rear axle is relatively easy. The front axle is more painful but still doable. I've researched the hardware I need, spring size, mounts, steering options, welding work, etc. I'd like to have a Tahoe that sits as low as possible and still flexes reasonably well (4-6" uptravel). I know that will require cutting some metal. I'm okay with that. Probably my main impetus for doing the SAS is the guys at 2 different alignments shops say that with the current setup that my alignment will always be a little out of spec. They say I need longer upper control arms. Screw that, I'll just SAS it and fix that ******** problem the right way. Then I think if I'm going to SAS it, I'm going to do it all the way and have a truck that, need be, can hold its own relatively well should I choose to take it off the beaten path.
Bring on the flames (******* criticisms I mean, not ****), ideas, suggestions, etc.
grassyass
JDN
