If there is no Specific in/out ports on a Catch can, I'm sorry to say this but its a pos.
If they are built correct and actually function "good", they have a specific in and out port.
You would be shocked as to how much better a properly built can functions over a bad one.
Dont think for one second that a 140$ can works any better than a 50$ ebay can.
As 75% of the cans being sold are just hollow empty cans.
Manufactures that make quality functional cans show you whats inside them.
Properly built can, even tho this is a bottom of the barrel design. It still has a specific in and out, With a long passage way that helps cool and separate the air charge, then the abrupt 90* direction change to help force the oil from the air. then it includes a mesh baffle that increases the surface area by a million times that oil can cling to, thus separating even more oil from the air charge. This mesh is also being held up from the bottom of the can.
with a ported divider.
The more surface area the dirty air charge must pass by, the better it works.
High end cans have machined dividers that Slow and cool while making many direction changes to the dirty air charge as it passes through the can. it will be very difficult to see these designs posted on the web.
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Pos non port specific can.
Omit the "inlet/outlet from this image, when looking at it"
This can merely allows gasses to pass through with NO functional baffle system.
It does not cool or separate the dirty air charge and the mesh that's inside it "IF" it even has any is basically worthless as the dirty air charge barely even passes through it, if it does at all.
Given the nature of the mesh, weight of oil, road conditions. that mesh will condense with oil, compact itself into the bottom of the can, thus becoming nothing more then a oily weight.
What little oil does get trapped is from sheer mass of the oil being flung out of the air charge as the air charge makes a abrupt direction change.
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Both of those cans picture above have one major flaw..
The stainless or copper mesh.
It clogs up and must be cleaned and occasionally replaced.. its a very diry job.
This is also why the high end cans with CNC'd baffles cost so much more. they are simple to clean and never require replacement parts, along with many other design secrets.
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This is the design I use when I build a can.
Its cheap and easy to build. I use stainless steel wire screens as my filter media.
I also angle the bottom of the inlet tube like a hypodermic needle. this gives the oil a nice pointy tip to collect on.
pic here for screen,
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1402933_735360303158029_161726413_o.jpg
If they are built correct and actually function "good", they have a specific in and out port.
You would be shocked as to how much better a properly built can functions over a bad one.
Dont think for one second that a 140$ can works any better than a 50$ ebay can.
As 75% of the cans being sold are just hollow empty cans.
Manufactures that make quality functional cans show you whats inside them.
Properly built can, even tho this is a bottom of the barrel design. It still has a specific in and out, With a long passage way that helps cool and separate the air charge, then the abrupt 90* direction change to help force the oil from the air. then it includes a mesh baffle that increases the surface area by a million times that oil can cling to, thus separating even more oil from the air charge. This mesh is also being held up from the bottom of the can.
with a ported divider.
The more surface area the dirty air charge must pass by, the better it works.
High end cans have machined dividers that Slow and cool while making many direction changes to the dirty air charge as it passes through the can. it will be very difficult to see these designs posted on the web.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pos non port specific can.
Omit the "inlet/outlet from this image, when looking at it"
This can merely allows gasses to pass through with NO functional baffle system.
It does not cool or separate the dirty air charge and the mesh that's inside it "IF" it even has any is basically worthless as the dirty air charge barely even passes through it, if it does at all.
Given the nature of the mesh, weight of oil, road conditions. that mesh will condense with oil, compact itself into the bottom of the can, thus becoming nothing more then a oily weight.
What little oil does get trapped is from sheer mass of the oil being flung out of the air charge as the air charge makes a abrupt direction change.
-------------------
Both of those cans picture above have one major flaw..
The stainless or copper mesh.
It clogs up and must be cleaned and occasionally replaced.. its a very diry job.
This is also why the high end cans with CNC'd baffles cost so much more. they are simple to clean and never require replacement parts, along with many other design secrets.
-------------------
This is the design I use when I build a can.
Its cheap and easy to build. I use stainless steel wire screens as my filter media.
I also angle the bottom of the inlet tube like a hypodermic needle. this gives the oil a nice pointy tip to collect on.
pic here for screen,
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1402933_735360303158029_161726413_o.jpg
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