Starter/solenoid for 00 Tahoe 5.3l Vortec

[OR VietVet]

In the supplied pic by CARID is shows the two choices of the equal length bolts and the unequal length bolts. It is one or the other. I would bet on equal length bolts but is very easy to look at the existing bolts and verify, if you crawl under the rig.

By the way, how do you know you need a started and solenoid?

 

[Doubeleive]

reach down there and smack your starter with a hammer a couple times, that may get you to the junkyard.

 

[3BigDogs]

That would work--according to the specs. Any customers leave any feedback on it? You don't want to buy anything that'll burn out in a week. Will you be able to install it yourself?

No feedback. I'm sure I can..I did my alternator, radiator and plugs.. might as well learn this one!!

 

[3BigDogs]

Yea, a salvage yard can take your application and pull a unit off a counter and test it and sell it and I bet it even has a 30 day warranty at least. A reman at RA is: $114 depending on the bolt length and a new is about the same plus bolt length option and shipping.

Having a friend checking out salvage yards for me too!

 

[3BigDogs]

reach down there and smack your starter with a hammer a couple times, that may get you to the junkyard.

Tried that this morning. Didn't work.

 

[3BigDogs]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3425088&cc=1361551&jsn=1816: This is a new one at RA with no core charge and it has two equal length bolts on it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=536079&cc=1361551&jsn=1829: This is an example of an unequal length bolt starter but does have a refundable core charge because it is a reman unit and is more expensive than the new with equal length bolts.

The starters that are reman that require a core charge will charge you that core charge fee up front and then refund back to you when you return it. That is why if you can get the new for so cheap with no core charge, that is better. There is also a current 5% discount code at RA that is 158394133131744462 and if you buy from RA you type in the code where it asks you
"How did you hear about us".

Then the shipping fee for wherever you happen to be. I would assume the one from CARID has a shipping fee as well. Plus it is reman.

If I was buying the new one I would get the AC Delco one but the one I posted is the cheapest.

To know about the unequal or equal length bolts, you just look at the two mounting bolts that come in from the bottom and if the mounting holes are of equal length, then the one I posted will fit but if one of the mounting ears is way shorter, then that is the unequal length. I posted the two examples as the cheapest choices of the new or reman starters.

Thanks I'll check them out!!

 

[Larryjb]

If you have the skills and patience (stress on the patience) to remove the starter, get yourself a rebuild kit:
http://rebuilderinabox.com/

I put in a brand new ACDelco Professional starter and it quit in a week. Not that that will happen to you, but after choosing to rebuild my original one, I realized that it added only about an hour to the entire job to rebuild the starter instead of just swap it. I was quite surprised just how easy it was.

My rebuild has been going strong now for 2 years.

I experienced the same thing with an alternator. I bought a rebuild and it quit a year later. I rebuild it using one of their rebuild kits and it never quit after that.

 

[Doubeleive]

Tried that this morning. Didn't work.

are you sure the starter is getting power?, how did you determine it is the starter?

 

[Jerry S]

I guess you dont hear any 'clicking' of the starter solenoid. Assuming you have a good battery, and all the dash lights come on and the radio plays when you turn the key to the 'on' position, then make sure you have a good Crank circuit fuse, 10A and a good Ignition fuse 10A (you can see which is which on the underside of the fuse box lid), when you turn the key to the start position does the crank relay click? There are three relays in the under the hood, drivers side, fuse box that are identical, if it doesnt click (you have to put your fingers on it to feel it), then swap one of the other two for that one and retry! If it still doesnt click and you have a good fuse on both circuits it is not the starter, most probably the control module not giving it a ground. Do you have 12 volts at the starter?

Disconnect the positive or the negative before you start to replace the starter. And also, it is a pain in the butt to get to that starter! The larger cable on the larger post is installed a certain way, there is a tab on the connector that has to be straight up or you wont have room to push it back up and into the flywheel area.

 

[SnowDrifter]

'Bout the only thing I have to offer, is steer clear of Oreilly reman units. Not sure what they do for refurbishment or quality control, but I've had more comebacks and dead starters from them, than I have anywhere else.

That being said.... Not like these are difficult starters to get to, so you're not out a ton of time if you do need to swap