Subwoofer riser

[LordWayback]

So I have a skar ix8 I’ve been running with bushings as spacers because it’s too tall for the box , so what I’m gonna do is make a riser plate with Home Depot pieces and make a tutorial page for anyone who wants to use a taller 8” sub. which greatly expands our subwoofer options because we can run tall 8” subs or slightly larger OD than 8” subs (in theory) the skar IX-8 is Over 8” in OD but it’s gonna seal with the box with my adapter. Before pic I’ll post a After pic tonight with details I’m hoping to make the adapter around $20 in materials (excluding drill because every single household should have Atleast one) my drill used was $7 and our ryobi was $70 I’m using my old school aluminum $7 black and decker in this project. : I’ll post exact measurements so you can replicate it with this. when purchased this was a $40 sub and factory components + spacer also more details to eliminate trunk rattle (minus trunk glass that hinges). when you upgrade to a larger sub. This thing already bangs on a cheap stereo that only works 50% of the time I shall go back to a JVC double din soon or delete the factory amplifier because the factory one cuts out and causes the issue I believe, it’s not the fuse.

 

[LordWayback]

If you do the spacer correctly you (could) run a 10” sub but you’ll run into Air volume problems with the factory box which shouldn’t be a issue with this skar 8” sub that’s currently underpowered I believe it’s rated at 350 watts but I only provide it (50?) watts I think with the factory amp. So it’s definitely underpowered but if I seal the box it’s definitely banging hard enough.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Good project. The current setup with the large space between the speaker and the box renders the speaker only marginally operational, due to the escaping air behind the speaker. For your speaker in a sealed enclosure, the optimal box volume is 0.45 - 0.59 cu. ft. , so keep that in mind as you create your plate to achieve a sealed enclosure.

 

[LordWayback]

TLDR: $30 parts list drop in speaker risers/ pieces to screw it together everyone can carbon coby and have bigger,better subs in the factory box for cheap.

Im more worried about the rattle and fixing every air gap so I don’t project and I get the full boom effect possible I found some “speaker rings” that are made of wood and 8” OD or so , with those I can probably stack 2 and modify if needed or find a plug and play solution, what im gonna do is flush drill the spacer into the sub box and drill the sub to the spacer because then if I unscrew my sub I don’t wear out the holes on the factory box , I’m going for repeatable results because then anyone with a drill, 8-20 long self tapping wood screws and some finesse can bolt in a 8” sub of any height making the skar ix-8 the cheapest “high end” option. i quotation marked the high end because there’s marginal improvements to more expensive subs. but to get those kinds of results you need a D.S.P. , matched amp, several hundred dollar box, non compressed sound files, and tons of other junk that unless you’re trying to make a insanely expensive system is not feasible. i mapped it out and I think I’m at about .63 cuft of operational air volume with the extended audio rings. It might be a little overkill but by the time you have a good box setup you probably already have a aftermarket amp (soon because factory one isn’t working properly). With that amp I will no longer be under powering my sub and it’ll rattle the back glass. I’m gonna get the spacers working then once they do I’ll make a parts list that can be realistically made at home for more money or replaced with similar products so nobody with a little effort will have to deal with the stupid slim subs that cost 3X as much to match the performance of this sub. I think I can make this part list for $30 or less if I penny pinch.

Good project. The current setup with the large space between the speaker and the box renders the speaker only marginally operational, due to the escaping air behind the speaker. For your speaker in a sealed enclosure, the optimal box volume is 0.45 - 0.59 cu. ft. , so keep that in mind as you create your plate to achieve a sealed enclosure.

 

[LordWayback]

Good project. The current setup with the large space between the speaker and the box renders the speaker only marginally operational, due to the escaping air behind the speaker. For your speaker in a sealed enclosure, the optimal box volume is 0.45 - 0.59 cu. ft. , so keep that in mind as you create your plate to achieve a sealed enclosure.

I think I’m gonna exceed the optimal box volume but with properly powering this sub it’ll probably still Rock without echo that kills bass and reverb.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I think I’m gonna exceed the optimal box volume but with properly powering this sub it’ll probably still Rock without echo that kills bass and reverb.

Your planned volume is close enough to optimal. Se sure to consider putting some speaker batting material inside the box.

 

[LordWayback]

Your planned volume is close enough to optimal. Se sure to consider putting some speaker batting material inside the box.

I might actually use styrofoam as a spacer apparently nobody makes a basically 8” -8.24” speaker riser if I just styrofoam I’ll have some sound deadening

 

[Joseph Garcia]

You should not have any trouble finding 8" speaker spacers, as there are lots of options out there.

Here's one option: https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Speaker-Spacers-Extender-Extending/dp/B076JSZLWF