Tahoe clunks up front when turning

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80zfreak

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So I redid the whole front end on the Wife's 04 Tahoe. I put in all new Moog upper ball joints, lower ball joints, control arm bushings, pitman arm, idler arm, hub bearings, sway bar bushings, and sway bar end links. I then had it aligned after putting new tires on it. I did all this because it was wandering, and had a clunk up front on the drivers side when turning. Mainly when backing up. The only thing I didn't change was the CV joints and shocks because I needed to put away a little bit more money before doing so. So after replacing all this stuff the clunk was still there, although it drove a lot better. So Friday I replaced all four factory shocks with Bilstein shocks and their rear coil springs. I also replaced the CV joints...clunk is still there! I put it up on jackstands today and I can't see where it's hitting on anything? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 

southboundchicken

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Did you check your brakes to see if possibly the pads are shifting around in the caliper ? I noticed clicks and clackes on my truck but after new front pads it was quiet again
 

H8 PVMT

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I chased a clunk on my 00 Yukon, turned out I was missing a bolt on the transmission mount, $3.00 bolt fixed it. Later on the sound came back and I went back to the transmission mount, all bolts were in place so I replaced the mount itself, $13.00 it was fixed, no more clunk.
 

rv8pilot

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Intermediate Steering Shaft (ISS)

If you are getting a light to moderate clunk under the hood on the driver's side while turning or driving on a rough road it is likely the Intermediate Steering Shaft which runs from the steering box to near the firewall. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and with the engine off grasp the shaft around the plastic cover and work it back and forth quickly. You should be able to hear and feel the clunk. If you have a mechanic's stethescope you will be able to localize the sound to the u-joint just above the steering box. Rock Auto has these for about $45 or GM Direct for $65 plus shipping.
 

rv8pilot

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2001 Yukon xl SLT

I ordered a new "intermediate shaft" made by Dorman from Rock Auto which is called the "upper intermediate shaft". This shaft extends through the firewall and mates with the shaft that connects to the steering wheel. Unfortunately its not the one I was looking for. It turns out that the part I need, which would be called the "lower intermediate shaft" one would think since it lies just below the "upper intermediate shaft". However, Gm in their puzzling wisdom calls this part a "coupling", which it is I suppose, but so are the two other shafts in the steering column. Anyway a GM "coupling" is on its way. So if you are looking for the shaft with a u-joint just above the steering box you want the "coupling" not the "intermediate shaft". Clear eh?
 

rv8pilot

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I believe what "exercising the shaft" is referring to is sliding the upper intermediate shaft back and forth. This would distribute the grease in the spline and stiffen things up. Obviously its only a temporary fix as the grease will eventually migrate out of the loaded and worn section of the spline. The Dorman replacement has a different "spline" arrangement that is claimed to hold up better. On my 2001 Yook with 231,000 miles both the upper intermediate shaft and the coupling (lower intermediate shaft) had bad u-joints but it was not very noticeable when turning the wheel. After removing both shafts the problem was obvious as the upper shaft was very rough even though it didn't have any slop and the lower shaft had definite slop. The noise and looseness was subtle on the road and could very easily be attributed to something else. The upper shaft is aftermarket from Dorman for about $45 but the lower shaft ("coupling", as GM calls it) appears to only be available as a GM part. I found one on E-Bay for $102. Happy Motoring.
 

treehan77

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Mines still no noise after 11 months, and it takes only 10 mi Utes, kl just loosen one bolt. Make sure to secure steering wheel
 

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