There's a 2008 6.0L from a 2500 available for $800 near me...

[Charlie207]

And as much as I want it, I have no place to store it and rebuild it. Or, swap it out with my 5.3....

sadpandaface.jif

 

[strutaeng]

And as much as I want it, I have no place to store it and rebuild it. Or, swap it out with my 5.3....

sadpandaface.jif

What?! Buy it!

LY6 or L96 IIRC. That's what everyone wants for their swap! Figure out the "why, when, how" later, LoL

 

[Charlie207]

What?! Buy it!

LY6 or L96 IIRC. That's what everyone wants for their swap! Figure out the "why, when, how" later, LoL

Based on the year and truck model it's an LY6. Ad says it was running, but no other info which is a little offputting.

 

[DesertRat]

Dang. That's a killer price. I paid $2500 with shipping from IL for my junker LY6 (08 2500). It came from a junkyard that "tested" it. Tore it down to the short block and sent the heads to a machine shop. Been great for two years so far. You end up reaching out to the seller?

 

[Charlie207]

Dang. That's a killer price. I paid $2500 with shipping from IL for my junker LY6 (08 2500). It came from a junkyard that "tested" it. Tore it down to the short block and sent the heads to a machine shop. Been great for two years so far. You end up reaching out to the seller?

I did, and got it for $600 because no one else wanted it: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/budget-rebuild-items.147334/

I'm new to this engine swap/refresh/rebuild thing, but was told by some folks that if the cam bearing looked good to just go from there, and leave the bottom end alone. The cam bearings look bad.

Next step is to pick out upgrade cam and valve springs to include with the heads when they go to the shop to be cleaned up. But, let me ask you, would you leave the bottom end all together when the block eventually goes to the machine shop to be hot-washed (it's gross... pealing paint, rust, tons of gunk)? Or, would you disassemble everything, label it, and send it with the block? I just want it cleaned up to reassemble.

 

[RST Dana]

I did, and got it for $600 because no one else wanted it: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/budget-rebuild-items.147334/

I'm new to this engine swap/refresh/rebuild thing, but was told by some folks that if the cam bearing looked good to just go from there, and leave the bottom end alone. The cam bearings look bad.

Next step is to pick out upgrade cam and valve springs to include with the heads when they go to the shop to be cleaned up. But, let me ask you, would you leave the bottom end all together when the block eventually goes to the machine shop to be hot-washed (it's gross... pealing paint, rust, tons of gunk)? Or, would you disassemble everything, label it, and send it with the block? I just want it cleaned up to reassemble.

If you are far enough into to see cam bearings, then you might as well drop the pan and see what is lurking below. It’s only money and time.

 

[Charlie207]

If you are far enough into to see cam bearings, then you might as well drop the pan and see what is lurking below. It’s only money and time.

I did pull the oil pan and windage tray. There was some sludgey goo on the bottom of the pan, near the drain plug.

 

[RST Dana]

I did pull the oil pan and windage tray. There was some sludgey goo on the bottom of the pan, near the drain plug.

Then, pop off a bearing cap or two and post up the pics

 

[Charlie207]

Then, pop off a bearing cap or two and post up the pics

Main or rod?

 

[RST Dana]

Main or rod?

Both.