Boz86
Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2010
- Posts
- 31
- Reaction score
- 28
This seems to be a common problem based on all the videos out there.
There's a wire that runs inside the transmission shift lever from the button. As it comes out of the lever it goes under the steering column and to a connector on the left side. That wire gets pinched sometimes and fails or it flexes every time you move the lever, and eventually many fail.
The button on mine quit engaging the tow/haul mode. I didn't have a good enough scanner to see if the button was sending a signal to the transmission or if I just had a burnt out dash light. It didn't feel like the transmission was changing but that was just a feel.
Rather than pull out the parts cannon I followed the videos and disassembled the dash. The wires weren't broken that I could see with the lever in the truck. I disconnected the wire from the connector.
With a bent paper clip and the key on I jumpered the engine/transmission side of the connector momentarily. Light came on. Jumpered it again, light went out. Continuity check on the lever button failed.
New lever fixed it, but I liked narrowing the problem to the lever before spending money on it. If this was a farm truck or just my beater I'd fix it differently but I went with an OEM replacement.
The truck side of the connector I jumpered:
The broken wire I couldn't see until I pulled the lever out:
There's a wire that runs inside the transmission shift lever from the button. As it comes out of the lever it goes under the steering column and to a connector on the left side. That wire gets pinched sometimes and fails or it flexes every time you move the lever, and eventually many fail.
The button on mine quit engaging the tow/haul mode. I didn't have a good enough scanner to see if the button was sending a signal to the transmission or if I just had a burnt out dash light. It didn't feel like the transmission was changing but that was just a feel.
Rather than pull out the parts cannon I followed the videos and disassembled the dash. The wires weren't broken that I could see with the lever in the truck. I disconnected the wire from the connector.
With a bent paper clip and the key on I jumpered the engine/transmission side of the connector momentarily. Light came on. Jumpered it again, light went out. Continuity check on the lever button failed.
New lever fixed it, but I liked narrowing the problem to the lever before spending money on it. If this was a farm truck or just my beater I'd fix it differently but I went with an OEM replacement.
The truck side of the connector I jumpered:
The broken wire I couldn't see until I pulled the lever out: