Do not do the flush. If someone goes to hook up a pump-like gizmo to the trans tell them to stop. 4L60Es are particularly bad because shoving pressure in it without all the electronics working will cause o-rings to rupture or get pinched/damaged. I've personally seen a few (rebuilt a couple actually) where this happened.
All it takes is one of the 30+ o-rings in this trans to tear and all hell breaks loose.
Just drop the pan, change out the filter and grommet, clean off the magnet, and button it up being careful not to damage the shift solenoid harnesses when installing the pan. With the pan off it's a good idea to install a drain plug. That way after the fluid change you can drive it for 1-2k miles then do another drain and refill. With that you will have mostly fresh fluid circulating. Most of the remaining suspended grit will be removed at the 2nd drain and fill since there is fresh detergents and emulsifiers cleaning things up that the old fluid couldn't take care of.
FWIW, i change the trans fluid and filter in my vehicles every 50-75k miles. During the change I put in a new boost valve for preventative maintenance (~$30) as it's an oscillating part that likes to wear out the sleeve and leak... and since it acts directly on the pressure valve at the pump, when it starts leaking bad it'll drop line pressure which kills the direct clutch (3-4 clutch) in a hurry.