Transmission has turned Christine

[bowtiegurl]

I updated my original post about the upper transmission cooler line popped out of radiator but got no replies so I'm starting a new post.
07 Yukon, replaced radiator, upper transmission cooler line popped out of radiator while driving. Lost a lot of fluid. Put line back in place, filled with atf but had no reverse, and 1st-3rd, only drive.
I stupidly took my Yukon to Certified Transmission here in Kansas City, MO. $59.95 they were supposed to do some diagnostic test which they didn't do. When I picked it up they said they verified I didn't have reverse, first, second, and third, and said I need a new transmission and it'd be $4,500 through the certified transmission remann factory. I told him I could not afford that. They did not do any pressure test on the coolant lines or transmission, they didn't do anything they said they were going to do. So I drove it home. Now out of the blue I have first, second, third and drive. 1st is a little hesitant, other gears work great like nothing ever happened. If the transmission was cooked how is this possible?
I don't know anybody that lives close to me that has a tech-2 bi- directional scanner to run any tests on the transmission. Any ideas of where to go from here?
They also said my transmission fluid was discolored and smelled burnt which is not true it's red and smells like fresh transmission fluid. So I got the typical run around like I figured I would for being a woman and a nationwide transmission shop wanting to make a big sale. I'm at a loss of what to do.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I updated my original post about the upper transmission cooler line popped out of radiator but got no replies so I'm starting a new post.
07 Yukon, replaced radiator, upper transmission cooler line popped out of radiator while driving. Lost a lot of fluid. Put line back in place, filled with atf but had no reverse, and 1st-3rd, only drive.
I stupidly took my Yukon to Certified Transmission here in Kansas City, MO. $59.95 they were supposed to do some diagnostic test which they didn't do. When I picked it up they said they verified I didn't have reverse, first, second, and third, and said I need a new transmission and it'd be $4,500 through the certified transmission remann factory. I told him I could not afford that. They did not do any pressure test on the coolant lines or transmission, they didn't do anything they said they were going to do. So I drove it home. Now out of the blue I have first, second, third and drive. 1st is a little hesitant, other gears work great like nothing ever happened. If the transmission was cooked how is this possible?
I don't know anybody that lives close to me that has a tech-2 bi- directional scanner to run any tests on the transmission. Any ideas of where to go from here?
They also said my transmission fluid was discolored and smelled burnt which is not true it's red and smells like fresh transmission fluid. So I got the typical run around like I figured I would for being a woman and a nationwide transmission shop wanting to make a big sale. I'm at a loss of what to do.

I had a customer whose cooler line popped out about 100 miles after he reinstalled the transmission I had built for him. It happened while cruising on I40 about 20 miles from his home. He realized what was happening immediately and let it go to the side of the road where a tow truck came and brought the vehicle back to his house. He told me about it and i recommended he bring me the trans back so I can take a look and replace damaged parts, if any (he would just pay for parts since my warranty doesnt cover suff like that).

Anyways, I got it apart and the only damage at all was slight glazing of the 3-4 clutch pack which i replaced. Every other parts was brand new. This was the case because so much fluid was lost so quickly that the trans didnt even have enough line pressure to even partially apply the clutch packs or band. The cooler line popping off had a "light switch" effect in terms of shutting down the trans vs having it die a painful death due to excessive slippage/thermal melt down.

I put his transmission back together and off he went...

Im guessing your situation is a similar in that no damage was actually sustained...

 

[bowtiegurl]

I had a customer whose cooler line popped out about 100 miles after he reinstalled the transmission I had built for him. It happened while cruising on I40 about 20 miles from his home. He realized what was happening immediately and let it go to the side of the road where a tow truck came and brought the vehicle back to his house. He told me about it and i recommended he bring me the trans back so I can take a look and replace damaged parts, if any (he would just pay for parts since my warranty doesnt cover suff like that).

Anyways, I got it apart and the only damage at all was slight glazing of the 3-4 clutch pack which i replaced. Every other parts was brand new. This was the case because so much fluid was lost so quickly that the trans didnt even have enough line pressure to even partially apply the clutch packs or band. The cooler line popping off had a "light switch" effect in terms of shutting down the trans vs having it die a painful death due to excessive slippage/thermal melt down.

I put his transmission back together and off he went...

Im guessing your situation is a similar in that no damage was actually sustained...

 

[bowtiegurl]

All the shops I call won't do any bi-directional testing on it. They all go straight to "You cooked the transmission so it needs replaced." My gutt tells me it's something that's not major but can't get anyone to actually look at it. I forgot to mention that while in neutral it wants to move forward like in gear. Do you think I should drop the pan to take a look, put a new filter and fluid in to see if that does anything?

 

[NickTransmissions]

All the shops I call won't do any bi-directional testing on it. They all go straight to "You cooked the transmission so it needs replaced." My gutt tells me it's something that's not major but can't get anyone to actually look at it. I forgot to mention that while in neutral it wants to move forward like in gear. Do you think I should drop the pan to take a look, put a new filter and fluid in to see if that does anything?

You left out the most important detail, lol. I would have never typed out my previous post if I had known that. Instead it would have looked like this: if it wants to move forward in neutral (and presumably either binds in reverse or moves forward when in reverse) your forward clutch pack has welded itself together...I'd confirm the condition, unless you have already done so...In that case, the transmission shop is correct in that major damage was sustained and transmission needs to come out for overhaul...I would also replace your forward drum, given the amount of heat that it saw, I wouldn't trust it any further.

 

[bowtiegurl]

You left out the most important detail, lol. I would have never typed out my previous post if I had known that. Instead it would have looked like this: if it wants to move forward in neutral (and presumably either binds in reverse or moves forward when in reverse) your forward clutch pack has welded itself together...I'd confirm the condition, unless you have already done so...In that case, the transmission shop is correct in that major damage was sustained and transmission needs to come out for overhaul...I would also replace your forward drum, given the amount of heat that it saw, I wouldn't trust it any further.

I apologize for forgetting a very important factor in my post! Thank you for your advice. I've been waiting and hoping you'd eventually read my post and tell me your professional opinion. I am going to have to go with a used transmission. Can you tell me what vehicles and years will be a "plug n play"? I have the 4L60e.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I apologize for forgetting a very important factor in my post! Thank you for your advice. I've been waiting and hoping you'd eventually read my post and tell me your professional opinion. I am going to have to go with a used transmission. Can you tell me what vehicles and years will be a "plug n play"? I have the 4L60e.

Contact your local GM dealership tomorrow and ask for the Parts dept...give the parts guy the last 8 digits of your VIN and ask him if your year/model 4L60E is equipped with an input speed sensor (ISS)...If so, you will need to find another 4L60E with the ISS...If you install a 4L60E that doesn't have it, you'll have harsh shifts and possibly limp mode plus an ISS related code.

You need a 2007 or 2008 4L60E with the ISS - no other years will work as is

Meanwhile, watch the below video for what to check for when buying used 4L60Es...Not the route I'd go, to be honest and I'd see if you can find a competent shop to rebuild a core for you (a carry out build would prob cost $2500, give or take a couple hundred).

How to Buy a Used 4L60E:

Best of luck to you, whichever way you decide to go.

 

[Doubeleive]

I apologize for forgetting a very important factor in my post! Thank you for your advice. I've been waiting and hoping you'd eventually read my post and tell me your professional opinion. I am going to have to go with a used transmission. Can you tell me what vehicles and years will be a "plug n play"? I have the 4L60e.

i've been there... call around your local junkyards a typical used 4l60 can be found for about $650, then you have a core charge, fluid and fllter and whatever labor to R&R
usually they will give a 30 days warranty (if your lucky, more than 30 days), it's a gamble for sure. Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do
when you take the old transmission back you get your core refunded.\
a junkyard warranty typically means they will exchange it for another one should it go bad in the warranty period, not a refund.