sonic_the_hedgeh
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- Feb 25, 2018
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Oh yeah. I am changing the fluids today.
The transmission filter kit was cheaper than I thought. Thankfully it has a rubber gasket.
All my fluids are synthetic for the drivetrain.
Hopefully the shifting is a little smoother after this. Thanks for the information.
Plus you did clarify what I thought was true. This 4wd system cannot be disengaged.
Still have to check with a dealer and a few mechanics as to why a Yukon would be built with a spot for the fuse? Besides the Vin code actually mentions it has 4 wheel steering so possibly that is wrong as well. Possibly a mistake made by the manufacturer? Oh well. Someday I will figure that one out. Until then fluid time! Going to be great to get the drivetrain fluids changed.
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The transmission filter kit was cheaper than I thought. Thankfully it has a rubber gasket.
All my fluids are synthetic for the drivetrain.
Hopefully the shifting is a little smoother after this. Thanks for the information.
Plus you did clarify what I thought was true. This 4wd system cannot be disengaged.
Still have to check with a dealer and a few mechanics as to why a Yukon would be built with a spot for the fuse? Besides the Vin code actually mentions it has 4 wheel steering so possibly that is wrong as well. Possibly a mistake made by the manufacturer? Oh well. Someday I will figure that one out. Until then fluid time! Going to be great to get the drivetrain fluids changed.
AWD cannot be turned on & off. The 4 wheels are being driven at all times.
The traction control is associated entirely with the vehicle braking (& in some cases suspension) system, and not the driveline. When TC is turned off, the system shuts down a percentage of the braking effort used to control wheel spin.
Can it be that the transmission just shifts 'sluggish' so to speak? My truck has always shifted like a slush box... It is programmed by GM to shift smoothly as possible. As time & wear takes its toll, the slug shift becomes more pronounced. Some folks install bigger servos and boost valves to firm shifts & increase hydraulic pressure within the original unit but you have to consume those options with theory of mechanics and a components useful service life.
If you give it 3/4 accelerator like you are wanting to really move, the shifts will be, or should be, noticeably crisper.
My driving style is slow and steady and the trans in my truck feels like it really drags the shift out. Most people are quick to have the transmission parameters changed whenever they are having a tuner modify the ECM for engine performance. This would be my preference, considering that none of the parts are being changed or upgraded; it is the same components acting within a different program that results with improvement. Most economical option, as well. At least until the orig trans' completely fails. I'm unaware of any testing or data but I would claim that modification of the engine ignition & auto transmission @ the earliest possible time in the host vehicle would extend the service life beyond the factory/engineering conservative specs, given moderate driving habits and timely oil/filter replacement, maintenance as-needed.
Unless there was a drastic & sudden change with the trans manners, I wouldn't think it much to distress over. Over time, the shifting characteristics are bound to become looser as parts wear out and line pressure decreases. There isn't anything you can do except mask the wear by upgrading with performance parts but the underlying issue of wear & tear doesn't change. But you could certainly hasten trans failure when attempting to override a small issue instead of rebuilding or replacing the failing components, which is the only good option you have for transmission service. A fluid drain & replace can't hurt; request that only a Dexron-6 be used. The spec Dex-3 for the 800gmt is outdated technology. It was superseded by the -6 formula back in 06/07.
http://twincharlotte.com/blog/30-common-4l60e-transmission-problems-repair-charlotte-nc/
#16
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