Trying to pass smog in cali :(

[Weber Dude]

Just saw this post and it looks like it's the same deal I went through in May 2015 with my 2001 Silverado 5.3 4x4. Had I done the smog test a week earlier I would have passed according to the smog tech. That's because the testing requirements had changed.

So with my truck, I originally took it to a smog and go place and it didn't pass smog because, they said there was no data and that an air pump was bad. So, I took it over to the local 76 Station that had a shop and performed SMOG tests. The first time they said was to drive it for a couple days and come back and it should be good. Well, still no data logged. They went through some more tests and ended up changing one of my aftermarket O2 sensors. Drove it for a week, took it back and still nothing.

During that week, their main nerd SMOG tech did some research to find out what was needed for things to record. What was posted previously looks very similar to what he said needed to be performed. But the first thing he did was hook it up to the machine and see if anything logged and if it passes. Nothing. The tech asked if I had an hour or so to wait; he wanted to try something different since the data that needed to be logged required very specific conditions. I said sure. He drove my truck up on their dyno, put a fan on the engine to cool it down to the proper temp per the parameters (140-145) listed. Once there, he jumped in the truck, drove it at the speed listed for 3 or so minutes with a specific amount of load. Long story short, the data logged and the truck passed.

Hopefully this helps. Kinda glad I had a nerd SMOG tech that wanted to try something out of the box other than just hook it up to a machine.

 

[aguila852]

Just saw this post and it looks like it's the same deal I went through in May 2015 with my 2001 Silverado 5.3 4x4. Had I done the smog test a week earlier I would have passed according to the smog tech. That's because the testing requirements had changed.

So with my truck, I originally took it to a smog and go place and it didn't pass smog because, they said there was no data and that an air pump was bad. So, I took it over to the local 76 Station that had a shop and performed SMOG tests. The first time they said was to drive it for a couple days and come back and it should be good. Well, still no data logged. They went through some more tests and ended up changing one of my aftermarket O2 sensors. Drove it for a week, took it back and still nothing.

During that week, their main nerd SMOG tech did some research to find out what was needed for things to record. What was posted previously looks very similar to what he said needed to be performed. But the first thing he did was hook it up to the machine and see if anything logged and if it passes. Nothing. The tech asked if I had an hour or so to wait; he wanted to try something different since the data that needed to be logged required very specific conditions. I said sure. He drove my truck up on their dyno, put a fan on the engine to cool it down to the proper temp per the parameters (140-145) listed. Once there, he jumped in the truck, drove it at the speed listed for 3 or so minutes with a specific amount of load. Long story short, the data logged and the truck passed.

Hopefully this helps. Kinda glad I had a nerd SMOG tech that wanted to try something out of the box other than just hook it up to a machine.

Where was this at ive been trying to pass for the last too months and nothing tags are expirended since november -_-

 

[Weber Dude]

Where was this at ive been trying to pass for the last too months and nothing tags are expirended since november -_-

El Dorado Hills 76

 

[SLCHOE]

moving this back up. Wondering if pending code would show up with parts store Actron code reader? How long can a code be "pending"....since May?

A code can be "Pending" indefinitely. What a Pending code is a a fault that has not yet met the criterea to be a "hard" code. In other words, your problem seems to be intermittent. One drive cycle it's throwing a fault and the next (where if it fails again it becomes a hard fault and a code is stored as well as illuminating the "Check-engine-light") it somehow fixes itself and passes the testing for that monitor. Rinse and repeat. You need thourogh diagnosis for that system.

 

[SLCHOE]

So has the silverado passed? Ive given up sadly i dont have the money to waste on gas to go do stupid drive cycles is just sitting in the drive way with the tags expired since november... mechanics try to upsell u so i dont wanna waste my time with them either

I love these types of comments. We are seemingly damned if we do and damned if we don't on this issue.

Our job is to look over your car and point out any issues the vehicle may have. If you came in for an oil change and I found you have a really dangerous condition with your driver side lower ball-joint, would you not want me to say something? At my shop we give you a list of issues and explain to the customer which need immediate attention. Regarding the lhe less imperative issues (plugs are worn , belt(s) is/are cracked, tie-rod ends have some excessive play, etc) we let them know can wait but still recommend getting them attended to as soon as possible. <---all truth. No up-sell there. Just doing our job.

The flipside is when a customer comes in for an oil change and asks how long it will take. We say 30-40 minutes. So we try to get them in and out ASAP and we succeed. Then a couple months later their timing belt snaps and they call and ask us why we did not suggest changing it? Give me a break!

The best customes come in and leave their cars with us and have a ride elsewhere. They say "Do the diagnostic and call me and let me know what the issues are." We take our time fitting it into our busy schedule from walk-ins and take the time to do a thorough diagnostic. We find the issue and call the customer with what we found and how much to fix. They axcept or deny repairs and we all go on about our day.

 

[aguila852]

I love these types of comments. We are seemingly damned if we do and damned if we don't on this issue.

Our job is to look over your car and point out any issues the vehicle may have. If you came in for an oil change and I found you have a really dangerous condition with your driver side lower ball-joint, would you not want me to say something? At my shop we give you a list of issues and explain to the customer which need immediate attention. Regarding the lhe less imperative issues (plugs are worn , belt(s) is/are cracked, tie-rod ends have some excessive play, etc) we let them know can wait but still recommend getting them attended to as soon as possible. <---all truth. No up-sell there. Just doing our job.

The flipside is when a customer comes in for an oil change and asks how long it will take. We say 30-40 minutes. So we try to get them in and out ASAP and we succeed. Then a couple months later their timing belt snaps and they call and ask us why we did not suggest changing it? Give me a break!

The best customes come in and leave their cars with us and have a ride elsewhere. They say "Do the diagnostic and call me and let me know what the issues are." We take our time fitting it into our busy schedule from walk-ins and take the time to do a thorough diagnostic. We find the issue and call the customer with what we found and how much to fix. They axcept or deny repairs and we all go on about our day.

In general most reccomend work not needed theirs a few legit shops around though

 

[SLCHOE]

In general most reccomend work not needed theirs a few legit shops around though

Unless you are going to a shady shop, recommended work is recommended before it gets to a point where it is crucial.

On any vehicle there are items that wear over time and progressively get worse. Our job is to notify you that those oparts are worn and WILL NEED replacement. Not this exact moment but they will need replacement in the near future. If only electronics worked that way! BTW, your vehicle has tons of electronics.

Try a new shop.

 

[aguila852]

Unless you are going to a shady shop, recommended work is recommended before it gets to a point where it is crucial.

On any vehicle there are items that wear over time and progressively get worse. Our job is to notify you that those oparts are worn and WILL NEED replacement. Not this exact moment but they will need replacement in the near future. If only electronics worked that way! BTW, your vehicle has tons of electronics.

Try a new shop.

I am not saying all just some
im gonna disconnect the battery for a few days im planning on going on a roadtrip will take the truck and see if it completed the test if not ill try a new shop...

 

[SLCHOE]

In general most reccomend work not needed theirs a few legit shops around though

I am not saying all just some
im gonna disconnect the battery for a few days im planning on going on a roadtrip will take the truck and see if it completed the test if not ill try a new shop...

No. You weren't.

 

[Martinjmpr]

To the OP: I have had a similar problem on my new-to-me '04 Suburban. Same codes, P0171 and P0174. Cleaned the MAF but that only made the CEL go off for less than a day.

Then the mechanics did some more research and discovered the real problem: Apparently its a warped intake manifold and/or damaged gasket.

There is a TSB on it, 05-06-04-029A, June 15 2005.

Solution is to replace intake manifold gasket and if the manifold is warped, the manifold as well. Unfortunately for me I found this out after the 3 day period during which I could bring it back to the dealer for repair. I am, however, going to call the dealer and see if they'll work with me on getting it fixed. Estimated cost from my shop was around $1100 parts and labor.