Turnkey 350 or 383 for a 1996.

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2DR4EVR

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So just as I was about to start some cosmetic projects I had a few bigger issues arise that warrant attention first.

Recently I discovered that my MPG has dropped to 8-10. I'm running rich, fuel pump sounds like a turbine engine at takeoff, and computer is registering misfires golore. Not surprising really....most of the equipment that has to do with those systems is 6-18 years old. Minus the plugs.

It got me thinking.....since I got to get in there and replace all this stuff, now maybe be a good time to consider a repower. I'm going to compression test the engine while its down and see what it reads. But given the labor involved why not kill two birds.

Bear in mind I'm not embarrassed to admit that I'm wholly ignorant in the specs of auto engines when compared to most on here. My field is airplanes. I can talk FADEC's, High-by-pass, overspeed govners and axial compressors all day long but when it comes to engines and doing whats RIGHT...I'm lost.....but learning.

My 96 LT 4x4 is basically totally stock all the way through the gears and tranny. With that, I'm looking at is your standard vortec 350 with some upgrades before it goes in for increased HP....or the 383. There's a big price gap.....is it worth it? Will a 383 require new transmission, starter, gears etc? Can I just drop it in and go? Are parts less plentiful for repairs in the future? Seems like there's a lot of room $$ wise for performance enhancements on a 350 when comparing it to a jeggs 383.

Any opinion on jeggs vs tuffdawg vs someone else. T-dawg seems to have a good mixture of price and performance.

Thanks for taking the time to read. I just want to do this the clean and proper.

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 PM ----------

And one other thing.......I guess I should mention that I'm not looking to turn this into some kind super go fast hod rod with loads of potential.

I'm just looking for more smash when I step on the accelerator. Still plan to use this as a daily driver.
 

SunlitComet

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gm performance ht383e $4700

or a "new" l31 long block from gm. Every part is new. casting crank and all.

Now post some more details and lets fix you drivetrain system before replacing something you may not need yet.
 

xanatost

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What sun said. If you can just fix the problems you got now and if you want more power after everything is fixed I would say hit up BlackBear. How many miles you got on yours??
 

SunlitComet

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hey and anytime you want to talk fadec's or fuel control units. i am there. who know when i hit the road again maybe one day i will end up in texas.
 

Donnie Yukonie

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I would vote for the 383 , Only thing is with a stock trans and axle it might be enough power to blow them up . Because obviously with more power comes more foot lol
 
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2DR4EVR

2DR4EVR

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Thanks for the input.......I'm sure the engine will checkout fine. I'm at around 200k so there's definitely life left.

I will do a repower at some point and when I start down that road I want a good map.

Well today were digging into it. My buddy has a shop and were going to do the fuel pump, Spider, Distributor and wires. The plugs are fairly new. I can't remember the particular codes I was getting. It was diagnosed last week but they got them at the shop. Lots of misfires. Cylinder 8 has like 19k misfires and several hundred on a few other ones according to the computer. Fuel pump is coming out. I'm pretty sure its the original one. I don't recall ever changing it. Maybe a few other things I'm forgetting to mention. Should purr nicely after today or tomorrow.

Going to take it from there. Oh and I'm losing transmission fluid slowly. May have a leaky seal. Lets hope its just that.
 
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2DR4EVR

2DR4EVR

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So cylinders 3 and 7 are pretty much dead. Only putting out about 40-55 psi. Oil on the sparkplugs. We stopped checking at that point. Had one more left to check but whats the point. I had a massive overheat about 1.5 years ago.....by the time I could get her stopped I was pegged in this texas heat. May of cracked one or two. The strange thing is it runs smooth and I don;t appear to be burning oil at a noticeable rate. And I may just be used to it but it feels like its making acceptable power.

Given the labor involved plus all the other stuff I was going to do it looks like a repower might be the most logical option.

Sunlit....my guy is pushing me towards a an engine from GM for warranty reasons. They want like 2500 for the 5.7 Vortec. I am leaning towards Jegs because they want 1800. Looks like the same warranty to me. What do you think? I'm leaning towards Jegs.
 

BigDaddy13440

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My Vortec 350 from Jegs was delivered last Friday to the shop where my 96 4-door is parked, I ordered a set of Flowtech headers for it while I was at it, as I got free shipping (compared to most everywhere else) and no core charge. Ran me $2057, delivered.

Also ordered a BlackBear tune from Justin and Jenna, I hope it gets here soon, as I'd like to get everything installed all at once. Figured since I saved the shipping compared to the other places, I'd spring for the tune - $260 initial investment, $60 back when I return the old PCM.

The new GM engine is supposed to be 255hp, the headers are supposed to be from 15-25 more, as is the BB tune.... hopefully I'll be up close to the 300hp range. Regardless, I asked for the tune to be more towing-oriented, with more torque (if possible), and to run on 87 octane.

AND, best of all.... the tune will typically realize a 1-2mpg savings, and combined with the expected increase in MPG with a fresh engine (compared to the 12-13mpg my 213K original one had), I'm hoping to get close to 16mpg..... so when I step up to some 275/65/20's or 305/60/20's, my mileage won't be sub-10mpg.
 

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