Update on the foglights to headlights hook up & reverse light switch hookup

[doktorek]

I decided to write this since some asked for pictures, some couldnt hook up fogs with headlights and still have high beams, some were confused.

All the pictures here are for my 2009 tahoe.

1st mod was the foglights to headlights. I didnt follow the other post to make that work. People were not happy that they loose fog lights when high beams are on. In my '09 Tahoe - I made it work. Instead of hooking up a jumper to the big fuse/relay - I decided to hook up fog lights fuse (28) to the RT or LF LOW BEAM (fuse 11 &16). Now I can turn on my high beams and still have fog lights as you see on pictures below. Only drawback from using straight wire - when parking lights are on and you put the fog lights switch on - headlight come on as well . That will be fixed with the diode (I will attempt to do that tomorrow). Im using stock setup of bulbs.

Now regarding that reverse light switch mod - there was a lot of info missing for some people. I though it would be fun to make it work and blind the tailgaters at night.
Previous writeup was not clear on which fuse, etc. Maybe previous writeup was for a different year. I tried to hook up to a fuse shown there and it didnt work. So here are couple of pictures and instructions on how to do it in a 2009 model.

I bought two of these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Cooper-Bussmann-ATM-fuse-tap-converts-one-into-two-fusible-circuits-10-Amps-maximum-on-added-circuit/_/N-25gq?itemIdentifier=32416&_requestid=730886
at auto zone and momentary switch at radio shock.

I took power in the dash board fuse box from REAR Accesory power outlet (that is always on) - fuse #2, plugged the harness from auto zone to it. Ran a wire from the fuse block to the switch (shown below) and then down to the firewall, drilled a hole under the brake pedal (firewall is very thin), and ran the wire to the engine comp fuse box under the brake booster. I hooked up 2nd harness to the fuse #15 (vehicle backup lamps) (which is diff location than previous writeup) and done. Took about 30 min to drill, run wires and install switch. I hooked up to the steady power where it works with keys NOT in the ignition.

I hope this helps

Make sure that when you drill the hole in the firewall you put a lot of electric tape on the wire where it touches the metal. I put enough that even heat would not get into the inside of the car. I cover the wire with AC Duct tape for insallation.

Only thing I would change this time around would be to drill more to the right of where I drilled. This way when you run wires they are easy for you to grab by hands. About 1" more to the right from the inside of the car.

 

[edgaranah1]

Nice write-up man. may come in handy one day.


Sent from my iPhone 4g using Tapatalk

 

[KMeloney]

dok -- I'm a little confused here. I want my fog lights to come on when my headlights come on. I don't mind losing the fogs when I go to high beams. I just don't want to have to press my fog light switch to get them on. I just want them to come on with the headlights, every time the headlights come on.

It doesn't sound like that's how you have things wired. Can you tell me exactly how to wire things that way? (And last I checked on this subject (a year or so ago), there was concern that the jumper wire could get really hot. I'm obviously not interested in starting a fire in the truck.)

Thanks!

 

[doktorek]

dok -- I'm a little confused here. I want my fog lights to come on when my headlights come on. I don't mind losing the fogs when I go to high beams. I just don't want to have to press my fog light switch to get them on. I just want them to come on with the headlights, every time the headlights come on.

That is how I have it now and I didnt loose High beams as you see on pics.

It doesn't sound like that's how you have things wired. Can you tell me exactly how to wire things that way? (And last I checked on this subject (a year or so ago), there was concern that the jumper wire could get really hot. I'm obviously not interested in starting a fire in the truck.)
Thanks!

I will be testing that now with stock bulbs. Concern a year ago was with HID fogs. I will test the jumper wire if it gets hot on stock setup and will be testing 2 diodes (so when I press fogs I dont get low beams). Previously only 1 diode was tested. I took two for 2W. Someone mentioned 5 diodes to handle HIDs.

 

[doktorek]

Small update.

So far the jump wire held up pretty good without overheating or anything. So that theory is good but whenever you turn on fogs - low beams come on as well.

So to fix it I did this:

I have installed a 2 diodes (inline - 1st pic attached) with gray strip towards the fogs - it works very well. I can put on fogs with parking lights and low beams dont come on. I can turn on and shut off fogs when I want. If low beams are on - you cant do much (obvious). I still have to test drive this thing for couple of nights to see if the diodes burn out.
I used two diodes (1w each I guess) to see if they will hold the stock setup. Will post results soon.

Some of you that have HIDs, diodes burned out and you worry that the wire will cause a fire or whatever else - I suggest to get a jump wire with a fuse (2 pic attached). Or just install 5 diodes and see how it works.