upgrading audio...Where to start?

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Tahoe_SSV

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Hello all, I am looking to upgrade my audio system and I am fairly new to setting up systems. I already put a "budget" sub & amp in. I have dual 12" MTX Terminator 2000w Max ( 500w RMS each) hooked up to a Kenwood KAC 1000W mono amp. It actually pounds pretty good considering how big the Tahoe is (third row seat removed). But I want better and louder. I also have a " budget " head unit. It is JVC KWv250BT. I am looking at selling everything I have in the Tahoe now and starting from scratch. Can anyone give me an idea on what I should start with? Maybe a full list of what to get? Types of speakers and where to put them. Any brand recommendations would be helpful to. I'd like to keep my budget under $2000 if I can. I appreciate any help and advice you all can give me.
 

Joseph Garcia

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"better and Louder" That is not much of an explanation of specifically what your desires are for a new audio system.

A description of the type of music that you typically listen to would be helpful.

Is your desire to hear great music within the truck, or is your desire to set off alarms on cars nearby?

A budget of $2000 won't get you a much better and louder system over what you have right now.

When I think of "better and louder", but not competition quality, I think of the following:

Head unit: $1000+

Amp(s) to power everything: $1500+

Subwoofers and enclosure: $750+

Door and post speakers for front and rear doors: $1000+
 

Fast_AT4

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Cant say enough good things about Sundown Subs/Amps for the loud/deep bass.
 
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Tahoe_SSV

Tahoe_SSV

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I am budgeting $2000 on just mids/Highs. Now I know that there is plenty of 6.5"s and 8" on market to get my mids and highs sounding pretty damn good for $2000. I listen to everything from country to rap to hard rock. I want loud enough so that People will know I have something when I drive by.
 

THarber

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For what is worth it might be worth leaving the factory head unit in so that all the gadgets work. I don't know that I could find an after market head unit with the price that does what my factory one does, same with my Harley. The noise production is up to the speakers, amps, wires and crossovers.

Now if you don't have a good head unit, I added a Sony XAV-AX5000 to my H2 and it did all I could have possibly dreamed it would do. This was several years ago so they might have a newer version. I used factory Bose speakers with a single under seat amp and it was awesome.

Your terminator speakers are not that great. My son and I just stuck a single Rockford 4ohm sub and JBL 600 amp in his BMW and it will take your breath away with the rest of the system being stock.

 

Joseph Garcia

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I am budgeting $2000 on just mids/Highs. Now I know that there is plenty of 6.5"s and 8" on market to get my mids and highs sounding pretty damn good for $2000. I listen to everything from country to rap to hard rock. I want loud enough so that People will know I have something when I drive by.
Thank you for providing this additional information, as it is very helpful. What I recommend below will definitely provide outstanding audio quality, and "People will know I have something when I drive by".

If you are budgeting $2000 for the 4 mid/high speaker sets, then I strongly recommend that you consider and listen to Focal speakers. IMO, they are about the best for non-competition quality speakers on the market (and they are even used for competition at higher price points). They are specifically made for mid/high sounds (from 80 Hz and up), as 90% of audible sound comes out of the midrange frequency spectrum, and they will tell you that you HAVE to have a sub-woofer in your speaker system for full sound preproduction. They range in prices from $400 per set to $24,000 per set.

I installed a Focal speaker price point of $600 per set ($1200 for all 4 doors and posts), 9 years ago in my Honda Fit, and when I bought a new Honda Fit, I had them moved into the new one. Today, they are in just as great a shape as they were when I purchased them. They come with a true analog filter system that has options for 3 different transition frequencies for the mid to high sounds, and there are 3 different relative high to mid frequency relative volume options. Bottom line, they can be tuned to provide the best overall sound for your vehicle (this is needed, as vehicles and the driver position make for one of the worst natural acoustical environments that you can have). I would have bought Focal subwoofers, as well, but they were out of my price range.

For an amplifier, I installed a JL Audio HD900/5 five channel amp (four 100 RMS watts per channel amps and one 500 RMS watts amp) for $1500. The amp is small in size (11" x8" x 2"), and it has all the wiring options that you will ever need. I can play at high volume, and the amp never gets hotter than luke warm. I guarantee you that the 500 RMS watts from this amp for the subs will blow away your Kenwood KAC 1000W mono amp.

For subwoofers, I installed two 10" AudioMobile GTS 2110 subs $300 each in a custom sealed enclosure. A sealed enclosure is not as loud as a ported enclosure, but the sound quality is far better. And the volume out of this dual sub sealed enclosure driven by 500 RMS watts is more than loud enough to give me a headache within minutes, if I turn it up too loud. The AudioMobile sub is an American made sub that has a standard speaker shell design, and not a pancake sub design. However, these AudioMobile speakers are specifically designed to be installed in small sealed enclosures, requiring only 1 cu. ft. of internal volume per sub. These AudioMobile subs have the sound quality of JL Audio W3 subs, but are 30% cheaper.

Please note that I have no affiliation with any of the product brands that I mentioned above. If you have any other questions, please fire away.
 
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salisburyv

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nice write up. My goal is sound quality. I'm going to be using German Maestro epic 3-way active front stage. (6.5", 4", and 1.1") I have the center console sub, so i bought a box from the guy on E bay, sized to fit my JL 10" sub. for rear doors i have CDT M6 mid-woofers, and 3" speakers in the way back. For the rear sub i bought the new kicker solobaric L7T, 2 ohm. i have a DSR1 dsp to correct the sound , and 2 Rockford Fosgate t600-4 . 8 channels of good power. i can't stress enough the importance of sound deadening. i had only installed the head unit, using the factory speakers. i disassembled the rear interior and applied it there behind all the plastic, and i was able to get 2 layers on the floor all the way up to the 2nd row. it made such a difference. I do have some experience in car audio, it was many moons ago, but not very different from the 90s when i competed IASCA. i upgraded the alternator and did the big 3, which was more like 6. I can't wait to finish this project, i'm stuck on putting the amp rack together, i don't usually work with wood or plastic. but ya never know till u try right? hope this helps !
 

Joseph Garcia

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nice write up. My goal is sound quality. I'm going to be using German Maestro epic 3-way active front stage. (6.5", 4", and 1.1") I have the center console sub, so i bought a box from the guy on E bay, sized to fit my JL 10" sub. for rear doors i have CDT M6 mid-woofers, and 3" speakers in the way back. For the rear sub i bought the new kicker solobaric L7T, 2 ohm. i have a DSR1 dsp to correct the sound , and 2 Rockford Fosgate t600-4 . 8 channels of good power. i can't stress enough the importance of sound deadening. i had only installed the head unit, using the factory speakers. i disassembled the rear interior and applied it there behind all the plastic, and i was able to get 2 layers on the floor all the way up to the 2nd row. it made such a difference. I do have some experience in car audio, it was many moons ago, but not very different from the 90s when i competed IASCA. i upgraded the alternator and did the big 3, which was more like 6. I can't wait to finish this project, i'm stuck on putting the amp rack together, i don't usually work with wood or plastic. but ya never know till u try right? hope this helps !
Good point in sound deadening material, as I forgot to mention that in my writeup. I had the sound deadening material installed in all of my doors, including the hatchback on the Honda Fit. Same thing in my Yukon XL.
 
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