Vortec - Intake Gasket Going Out?

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Daytony

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My 1996 Tahoe 5.7L Vortec has been running rough lately and has been missing/spitting, sputtering, low power, bad gas mileage.

I have done the basic tune up with new plugs, cap, rotor and still runs rough, then I added sea foam to the intake and that didnt help nor did fuel injection cleaner so I think I'm looking at a leaking intake gasket.

Is there any sure fire way to find out? I havent noticed any coolant loss but my oil has been going down and I think that was a leaking line to the radiator.

Any ideas?
 

SunlitComet

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inspect your old plugs and post pictures of them if you can. Most likely if you are using the original fuel injection system it is times for it to go. Can you get a fuel pressure tester?
 
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Daytony

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I don't have the old plugs but I DO remember them being very clean and all 8 looked that way.

I can probably get a FP tester from autozone from their loan-a-tool deal. What nubers would I be looking for?

Is the fuel injection system that spider assembly and are they prone to failing? I'd rather be changing this than dealing with an intake leak.

Also one more question, would 1 rear O2 sensor cause all this? I had autozone check for codes about a month ago and it turned out to be 1 code and that was for the pass side rear 02 sensor was bad. but now the engine light is off but it will come on colder mornings.

I have 2 brand new NTK rear O2 sensors ready to install but cant get at them with regular tools, again autozones loan-a-tool may help here.
 

96ProCompTahoe

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mines also running like shit and i threw the same passenger upstream o2 sensor. thats this weeks project on the hoe... haha

there is an updated spider assembly that replaces the factory version. little over $200 on amazon.
 
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Daytony

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I still have no clue what I am doing lol. my luck I'll be putting a new spider in AND an intake gasket job, god I hate my truck. Sometimes I wish I would put the wrenches down and drive it till it completly dies and move on lol.
 

96ProCompTahoe

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I still have no clue what I am doing lol. my luck I'll be putting a new spider in AND an intake gasket job, god I hate my truck. Sometimes I wish I would put the wrenches down and drive it till it completly dies and move on lol.


guess you could... if its running as bad as mine is it might not take very long! haha. if your doing the intake gaskets you might as well do the spider assembly while you have it apart and vise versa. i may be doing both in the near future if a few other small things don't get it back to running atleast halfway decent. did you replace the o2 sensor already?
 
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Daytony

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Not yet, I am afraid if the intake gasket is bad any internal coolant leak will destroy my new/existing working o2 sensors. Seams like you cant fix anything on these without destroying other parts new or used. So where do I start? lol

I just got done installing my brand new radiator today so I have to wait awhile to monitor my coolant level and see if I am actually loosing any, I never have before but ya never know.

By the way 96ProCompTahoe, yours looks just like mine blk/slvr except mine is a 4dr and has the escalade front end. nice Tahoe man.
 

SunlitComet

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The original injection design became problematic after about 70,000 on it. Gm actually extended the warranty for the system to 200,000 miles or 10 years.

Here is test procedure. DON NOT AUTOMATICALLY JUMP THE GONE IF A NUMBER IS NOT EXACTLY AS IS IN THE TEST STEP. Post your result for the step here for analysis. Vids or pic help too.

Testing and Inspection
170216917

Fuel System Diagnosis (System Check [1 Of 4])


170216918

Fuel System Diagnosis (System Check [2 Of 4])


170216919

Fuel System Diagnosis (System Check [3 Of 4])


170216920

Fuel System Diagnosis (System Check [4 Of 4])


58840996

CSFI Fuel Supply System



CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When you turn the ignition switch ON, the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) turns on the in-tank fuel pump. The pump remains on as long as the engine is cranking or running and the VCM is receiving reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the VCM shuts off the fuel pump within 2 seconds after you turn the ignition ON or the engine stops.

An electric fuel pump pumps the fuel through an in-line filter to the Central Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) unit. The pump is attached to the fuel level meter assembly inside the fuel tank. The pump is designed to provide fuel at a pressure above the regulated pressure needed by the injectors. The pressure regulator keeps the fuel available to the injector at a regulated pressure. Unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a separate line.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
Tools Required, J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gage in J 34730-E or J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gage with J 34730-250 Fuel Pressure Adapter Kit.

TEST DESCRIPTION
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.


  1. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure connection to absorb any small amount of fuel leakage that may occur when installing the fuel pressure gauge. Turn ON the ignition, the fuel pressure should be 415-455 kPa (60-66 psi). This pressure is controlled by a spring pressure within the regulator assembly.

  1. The fuel pressure that continues to fall is caused by one of the following items:

    • The in-tank fuel pump check valve not holding.
    • A partially disconnected fuel pulse dampener (pulsator).
    • The fuel pressure regulator valve leaking.
    • A central SFI injector and poppet valve leaking.

  1. When the engine is idling, the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum) and is applied to the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm. This will offset the spring and result in a lower fuel pressure. This idle pressure will very somewhat depending on the barometric pressure; however, the pressure idling should be less indicating the pressure regulator control.

  1. The fuel pressure less than 415 kPa (60 psi), falls into the following 3 areas:

    • A regulated pressure but less than 415 kPa (60 psi). Amount of fuel to injector OK, but pressure is too low. System will run lean and may set a DTC. Also, hard starting cold and overall poor performance or may not start at all. Refer to Engine Cranks but Does Not Run
    • A restricted flow causing pressure drop - Normally, a vehicle with a fuel pressure of less than 300 kPa (44 psi) at idle is un-drivable. However, if the pressure drop occurs only while driving, the engine will normally surge then stop running as the pressure begins to drop rapidly. This is most likely caused by a restricted fuel line or plugged filter.
    • A leaking or contaminated pressure regulator valve or seat interface may not allow the regulated pressure to be achieved.
Notice: Do not allow the fuel pressure to exceed 517 kPa (75 psi) because damage to the fuel pressure regulator may result.



  1. Restricting the fuel return line allows the fuel pressure to build above regulated pressure. With the battery voltage applied to the fuel pump test terminal, the pressure should rise above 455 kPa (66 psi), as the valve in the return line is partially closed.


---------- Post added at 08:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 PM ----------

The rear sensor is used primarily for monitoring catalytic efficiency. It has limited fuel control(minor trims). The forward sensors have more fuel control to ensure the best gas emissions mixture gets into the converters for proper catalyzing.
 

992dr

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I still have no clue what I am doing lol. my luck I'll be putting a new spider in AND an intake gasket job, god I hate my truck. Sometimes I wish I would put the wrenches down and drive it till it completly dies and move on lol.

Hah, we have the same luck my friend. My intake manifold gasket went and I was loosing coolant. It went from bad to worse BUT, in all honesty. It was not a hard job. In fact, I would say its easy. If you are mechanically inclined I wouldnt worry.
I think someone needs a :love51:
 
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Daytony

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Well its been a week since my new radiator install, no loss of any coolant or oil. Would it be safe to assume my intake gasket is good? I have no way of telling if this was done before I had the truck and it has 160k on it now. When I installed the radiator I powerwashed the engine bay super CLEAN! and there is no visable signs of any types of leaks on/around the intake.... she's bone dry.


I think my next step would be checking into the fuel system.
 

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