What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

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I have links to all three in this post of my build thread. If you want all LEDs for the turn signals, you need the non-polarized LEDs for the sidemarkers (also linked in the build thread).
I have switchbacks in my turn signals also but never heard of non-polarized LED's . I used regular ones in my park lights. Check your main brake lights though because mine wouldn't work with switchbacks in the front turn signals without load resistors in the front park lights.
 

W8TVI

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I have switchbacks in my turn signals also but never heard of non-polarized LED's . I used regular ones in my park lights. Check your main brake lights though because mine wouldn't work with switchbacks in the front turn signals without load resistors in the front park lights.


Non-polarized LEDs basically just add a full wave bridge rectifier circuit (a diode matrix) to the bulb so it doesn't matter what direction it's plugged in. The LEDs in the bulb are still polarized, but the diodes fix that. It also allows the bulb to source its ground connection just like the stock bulb.
The way GM designed the side-marker circuit, the direction the bulb sources its ground reverses depending on whether the parking lights are on or not.

I think my break lights are still working, but I didn't stand in front of them to double check.

I also changed the turn signal relay to an LED compatible part, so I didn't use loading resistors on the front.
 

Rocket Man

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Non-polarized LEDs basically just add a full wave bridge rectifier circuit (a diode matrix) to the bulb so it doesn't matter what direction it's plugged in. The LEDs in the bulb are still polarized, but the diodes fix that. It also allows the bulb to source its ground connection just like the stock bulb.
The way GM designed the side-marker circuit, the direction the bulb sources its ground reverses depending on whether the parking lights are on or not.

I think my break lights are still working, but I didn't stand in front of them to double check.

I also changed the turn signal relay to an LED compatible part, so I didn't use loading resistors on the front.
I also have an electronic LED compatible flasher/ turn signal relay but the reason I used a load resistor in the front marker lights was so the brake lights would work with LED switchbacks in the front turn signals. The 3rd brake light still worked but not the main ones. I think it had to do with the fact that the brake lights are tied into the rear marker lights which are also LED on mine. Maybe not enough load in the marker light circuit.
 

W8TVI

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I also have an electronic LED compatible flasher/ turn signal relay but the reason I used a load resistor in the front marker lights was so the brake lights would work with LED switchbacks in the front turn signals. The 3rd brake light still worked but not the main ones. I think it had to do with the fact that the brake lights are tied into the rear marker lights which are also LED on mine. Maybe not enough load in the marker light circuit.
Just checked mine, and the rear LED lights (both brake and turn) are working fine.
 

shakedown067

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Why not flip em and reduce unsprung weight?

Good question, I don't remember why I didn't flip them. One of the ends may have been rubbing inverted. I had them in that way to start, but flipped them back. it was late, dark, cold, and just needed it back together. lol
 

2003FatSo

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I like the look of the tahoe lifted and the 22s with ATs but I have to say I don't like driving it as much now. I think it's because of the all terrains because they have so much resistance I don't accelerate as fast and can't break past 85 mph without smashing the pedal for a long time. After spending all the money I think I'll keep them on till they are used up or sell them. I am not sure. If I get rid of them I am going to put OEM spindles back on and level it out. 22" Texas edition wheels with HIGHWAY tires would be fine with that suspension. I would love that fast, smooth ride again.
 

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