What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[RAMurphy]

After all the work I did on the AC including replacing the lines that go from the compressor to the rear unit I found the rear fan was intermittent. Upon inspection I saw there was a loose solder joint where the ground connects to the resistor pack. Soldered it up and then found the connector was melted so I replaced that. Now for the first time since I remember I have full rear AC. Yay! The dog loves it.

Outstanding work and perseverance on this one.

 

[MassHoe04]

It wouldn't hurt to verify the Tech 2 version for GM-English is the latest 33.004 before you buy.

@RAMurphy Check anyway, but I got my Tech 2 clone from Chinacardiags in February. It did ship with the latest available version of software. They have and make enough to sell and ship quickly, but I got the sense that they do not carry a huge back-stock of old inventory stockpiled in a warehouse. I don't think they have anything with older versions on units they are currently selling.

Ebay and other outlets, you may run the chance of getting older software. But Chinacardiags... I think you would be safe with them.

 

[MassHoe04]

Tore into my rear hatch this afternoon and after working the existing actuator a few times, I've decided to not replace it yet and see what happens. It appears to be functioning again for the time being. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the moving points/parts to see if that might help it from seizing up again. I have a spare part on standby if it goes t!ts up again.

Silicone spray lubricant seems to dissipate after a while. My dad was always a fan of white lithium grease (in a spray can) for hinges and latches and other hinged moving parts or sliding/pivoting linkages. The film seems to stay where it needs to a long time. Keeps things loose and rust free. Doesn't seem to attract too much dirt after it dries. Maybe that is the wrong thing to do, but that is what I have been doing for 40 years.

 

[clandr1]

Did you pull the hatch plastics off to get to those parts? How'd you get the hatch open?

Yes. I crawled from the 2nd row into the cargo area, pulled the plastics back where they meet in the middle just below the latch. I was able to see just enough to move the actuator into the unlock position, then I was able to open it from the outside and take the interior plastics all the way off.

 

[Dantheman1540]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

 

[Rocket Man]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

Gravy. Actually I don’t know. The NBS mounts never go bad. Why are you changing yours?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Gravy. Actually I don’t know. The NBS mounts never go bad. Why are you changing yours?

I’m thinking there is to much flex in them during hard clutch dump launches.

 

[iamdub]

How miserable do y’all think swapping motor mounts one at a time without pulling the engine will be? I mean like not even having a hoist out just a jack under the oil pan at most.

Will be using Atomic poly mounts to swap OEM rubbers.

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

 

[MassHoe04]

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

1000%!
One side at a time. Leave the side you are not removing loose, but do not remove the bolt or nut completely.
As @iamdub mentions, doing so will allow the engine to stay lined up while allowing it to lift and roll a enough to swap out the other side.

Not impossible if you unbolt everything, but keeping one side lined up speeds the process up a lot and less wrestling!

I did mounts on my 05 Jeep 4.0L. I jacked one side at a time with a floor jack and piece of 2x4 under a solid spot on that side.
Piece of cake!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Who pulls the engine just to swap mounts? I jacked mine up from the bottom to change them one at a time. Did the driver side first and left the drinker side bolted down so the engine would roll over a little, giving a hair more working room.

That’s the plan then, I’ve just never replaced them without having the motor out so wasn’t sure if it would work that well.