What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Sam Harris]

Uhh... You do know what kind of drive-by Sam is asking for, right, Tony? I know you NJ thugs have a different definition for that than Denver.

[emoji1787]

 

[Chrismnj]

 

[Chrismnj]

 

[Tonyrodz]

Lol, it's launch control!!

 

[Derick]

My neighbors/wife backed into the burb a couple of weeks ago while it was parked on the street. Ya know, because its not noticable or anything...anyhow, drove it to work today and took it to a body shop to get (another) quote and schedule the repair. Also getting some of the wheel well cancer that's developing sanded down and painted.

 

[trailblazer]

Just finished installing the Monroe MA830 Air Shocks. My truck had the original ten-year old shocks that looked horrible. Took about an hour. Garage floor to rear fender bottom is 37.25”. 20-psi gives me that back. I’ll be curious to how this will hold up trailering.

I paid $44.57 for the pair (Amazon) plus $18 for the AK29 tubing kit from my local AutoValue.






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[CHOO CHOO]

So after replacing the window regulators, now my switches are ******. Might have been the problem all along. Replaced both rear switches and they worked for a bit. Then the front switches rear windows stopped working.

Just replaced the switch with a brand new oem switch. Thoughts? Do these need reprogrammed at the stealership?

 

[Doubeleive]

So after replacing the window regulators, now my switches are ******. Might have been the problem all along. Replaced both rear switches and they worked for a bit. Then the front switches rear windows stopped working.

Just replaced the switch with a brand new oem switch. Thoughts? Do these need reprogrammed at the stealership?

you need a tech2 to test them

 

[CHOO CHOO]

you need a tech2 to test them

Figured. Well, I took apart my old switch, cleaned all the contacts and still nothing. So, I tested one of the old window regulators. Now it works. So new switches in rear, cleaned the contacts on the old switch, and put the old regulator back in on the passengers side rear.

Sadly, not worth me trying to ship back a $35 window regulator. Unless they just want to credit me and I toss the new one.

Tried both of the old regulators and they worked with the new switches in the back. So it has to be the motor on the new window regulator I bought.

Well, at least my window goes up all the way..........for now [emoji849]

 

[iamdub]

Figured. Well, I took apart my old switch, cleaned all the contacts and still nothing. So, I tested one of the old window regulators. Now it works. So new switches in rear, cleaned the contacts on the old switch, and put the old regulator back in on the passengers side rear.

Sadly, not worth me trying to ship back a $35 window regulator. Unless they just want to credit me and I toss the new one.

Tried both of the old regulators and they worked with the new switches in the back. So it has to be the motor on the new window regulator I bought.

Well, at least my window goes up all the way..........for now [emoji849]

I think the switch modules have load-sensing circuitry that rely on feedback from the motors. A defective and/or sub-par aftermarket motor might draw more amperage than the OEM motor, triggering the "breaker" circuitry in the switch module.