What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[JT 07LTZ]

Both the stock ones in mine were shot to hell and back when I got the vehicle. Interior rattled and there was a thunk on acceleration. I hated it. H3 mounts installed and a Texas Speed Low Lift stage 2 were used. They say in a vehicle as heavy as ours, its as big of cam as you can run without a higher stall converter which is something I wasn't willing to do. They say its supposed to be a 50ish hp gain at the crank which is about the neighborhood I'd fall into. I don't have a before/after but I did make 295 whp on a 92 degree day on 1/3 of tank 87 octane and the other 2/3 filled with 92. I'm on a 2007, so no vvt. The cam is great. They claim below the curve gains are up to 70 more hp vs stock which I think might be a little much, but damn if it isn't a kick in the pants. The vehicle "comes up on the cam" above 3200 which I wish was lower, but you sure as hell don't loose power down low from stock. Basically, it feels like the trucks got vtec now. I also got rid of my cats, so any slight- and boy do I mean slight- hesitation happens right off idle. Its probably a combination of the cam and going catless, and the fact that I need to change my ATF all stacking on top of eachother for the hesitation. Its not noticeable to anybody but me, but YMMV.

The cam made my tahoe faster, no drop in MPGs which almost pissed me off, and it also sounds pretty cool at idle.

Thanks for all the detail. I bet it’s your cam that gives you more vibration. That choppy idle sounds great though!
My next mods will be a cam, AFM delete, long tubes, and a torque converter. I have the AFM tuned out but I want to replace the lifters etc.
I know a guy who has a torque converter shop and has been building them for 30 years. I’m definitely going to go up to a 2800 stall converter.
Just need to save some more cash. I just spent more than I’d like to admit on all these repairs.

 

[Sam Harris]

above 1200 which is the stock stall speed you’re not loosing any. Esp if you are still emissions compliant.

if you have the 6 speed and/or 4.10s you won’t be able to tell I don’t think

This would be for my NBS, so the ‘ol 4L60E. 3.73’s for the gears. Though I will be replacing the tranny fairly soon. Perhaps I should think about changing stall.. I really never considered it, as I don’t ever plan to race it or even try any 1/4 mile runs. But I suppose a mild bump would be helpful.

 

[iamdub]

...Basically, it feels like the trucks got vtec now.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

I might be test fitting my retrofit to check for rotational alignment this weekend...guess I need to start a build thread.

 

[R3cord303]

This would be for my NBS, so the ‘ol 4L60E. 3.73’s for the gears. Though I will be replacing the tranny fairly soon. Perhaps I should think about changing stall.. I really never considered it, as I don’t ever plan to race it or even try any 1/4 mile runs. But I suppose a mild bump would be helpful.

They said you don’t need one for the stage 2 that I got but for stage 3 you do. I believe them. i’m on 3.73s and a 4l60e as well

 

[mattjones]

One of my front driver side ball joints has been producing a terrible squeak lately. I ended up ordering a grease gun on amazon and following this guide: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-to-grease-ball-joints/.

They didn't look to be torn or anything but after greasing them up it seems like the squeaking is gone. Here are some pics of the upper and lower ball joints:

I also noticed the tie rod end seemed to be covered in grease like it had been leaking or something so I cleaned off the zerk and greased it up as well. Didn't notice it until just now but it looks like the dust shield might be broken right next to the tie rod end.

I'm assuming the ball joints will have to be replaced eventually but hopefully the grease will buy them some more life. Truck is at about 86k miles right now. I noticed the ball joints on the passenger side have zerk fittings so I'm guessing the previous owner had them replaced at some point.

Just finished up a whole bunch of maintenance and repairs that I had been putting off. My tahoe has 140K on it but the engine runs great so I’m going to keep it for a while. I finally decided to finish the work after my G80 rear differential blew up. It’s one hell of a list:

Oil pump, water pump, timing chain, replaced the leaking oil pan gasket, H3 motor mounts, Yukon limited slip differential, replaced both front hub bearings, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, front differential fluid and axle seals, tie rod ends, spark plugs/wires, cleaned throttle body, replaced leaking power steering hoses, replaced rear brake calipers, pads, and rotors. Replaced leaking brake master cylinder.

Also, I needed tires so I went ahead and got some Fuel Trophy 18x9 and some bigger Duratrac 295/65r18 tires. I wanted more rubber than my 275/60r20s.

View attachment 240071 View attachment 240072 View attachment 240073

********, "a whole bunch of maintenance and repairs" was right

 

[osiris94ej]

Got some part's in for some upgrades. Still waiting on my ttx control arms and ball joint's, belltech struts.




Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[JT 07LTZ]

One of my front driver side ball joints has been producing a terrible squeak lately. I ended up ordering a grease gun on amazon and following this guide: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-to-grease-ball-joints/.

They didn't look to be torn or anything but after greasing them up it seems like the squeaking is gone. Here are some pics of the upper and lower ball joints:

I also noticed the tie rod end seemed to be covered in grease like it had been leaking or something so I cleaned off the zerk and greased it up as well. Didn't notice it until just now but it looks like the dust shield might be broken right next to the tie rod end.

I'm assuming the ball joints will have to be replaced eventually but hopefully the grease will buy them some more life. Truck is at about 86k miles right now. I noticed the ball joints on the passenger side have zerk fittings so I'm guessing the previous owner had them replaced at some point.




********, "a whole bunch of maintenance and repairs" was right

No joke. I did not plan on doing that much at one time but once I got started I kept finding more issues. It’s just about like a new truck now.

 

[R3cord303]

Does anybody know the location for the ground for the bose radio? I added a supplemental ground for that body ground that goes from the firewall to the back of the engine- I ran another ground from that same stud to the negative battery cable- and that seems to have helped a bit with the static but it still crackles and pops sometimes.

 

[Austinite]

I got tired of trying to find 12v switched acc locations on my 07 Escalade, so I installed an auxiliary 6-way fuse box under the hood. I tapped into the positive post on the oem fuse box with a 100 amp relay and 100 amp circuit breaker. I ran the 12v switched inside under the dash to the acc RAP plug.