What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXJD8W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the same thing just has a longer lead wire on it

 

[iamdub]

I hope every one had a great Thanksgiving ! I have been away awhile.

Have a shock replacement question: 2007 GMC Yukon SLE 5.3 Flex fuel

I need to replace the original ( 77K miles ) rear shocks. The OEM ones are pictured as are the heavy duty ones.
I never tow anything, but will be towing a 20 foot cargo trailer next summer from Seattle to Ohio and am thinking maybe I want heavy duty shocks vs OEM standard

Everyone's thoughts ? thank you in advanceView attachment 386163View attachment 386163

I'm with @Geotrash on this one. The springs are what carry the load. The shocks dampen movement. Yes, they go hand-in-hand. But, if you're worried about the load, I'd focus on springs first, especially since you "never tow". You can get some Air Lift or Firestone Ride-Rite bags for ~$100ish and have all the flexibility you'll need for the rare occasions you tow. Or, remove and sell them if you never tow again. As for shocks, those you listed aren't "OEM". ACDelco "Professional" and "Advantage" are re-labeled aftermarket parts that ACDelco has licensed under their name. There are three levels of ACDelco: Genuine/OE (What came on it from the factory and is generally hailed as best quality), Gold/Professional (Aftermarket that ACDelco has deemed as a 'good' replacement) and Silver/Advantage (Parts focused more on price).

So, avoid Silver/Advantage unless you just want to have new parts on there regardless of the other factors. Be aware that the Gold/Advantage should be pretty good, but might not be as good or last as long as your original parts.

Having said all that, I'd focus on shocks that best suit the primary use of your Yukon. Shocks of factory spec were selected to strike a balance between satisfying the vehicle's towing and carrying capabilities as well as its normal/unloaded commuting duties. So, technically, if you're within the towing ratings, OE shocks should be fine. If yours are worn out, replace them with OE or equivalent and you should restore your ride and towing characteristics. Anything additional (helper bags and/or HD shocks, etc.) would be to improve the stance and handling when loaded within those ratings.

Will this 20' cargo trailer be loaded? If so, be mindful of proper loading/weight distribution.

 

[StrkAliteN]

I'm with @Geotrash on this one. The springs are what carry the load. The shocks dampen movement. Yes, they go hand-in-hand. But, if you're worried about the load, I'd focus on springs first, especially since you "never tow". You can get some Air Lift or Firestone Ride-Rite bags for ~$100ish and have all the flexibility you'll need for the rare occasions you tow. Or, remove and sell them if you never tow again. As for shocks, those you listed aren't "OEM". ACDelco "Professional" and "Advantage" are re-labeled aftermarket parts that ACDelco has licensed under their name. There are three levels of ACDelco: Genuine/OE (What came on it from the factory and is generally hailed as best quality), Gold/Professional (Aftermarket that ACDelco has deemed as a 'good' replacement) and Silver/Advantage (Parts focused more on price).

So, avoid Silver/Advantage unless you just want to have new parts on there regardless of the other factors. Be aware that the Gold/Advantage should be pretty good, but might not be as good or last as long as your original parts.

Having said all that, I'd focus on shocks that best suit the primary use of your Yukon. Shocks of factory spec were selected to strike a balance between satisfying the vehicle's towing and carrying capabilities as well as its normal/unloaded commuting duties. So, technically, if you're within the towing ratings, OE shocks should be fine. If yours are worn out, replace them with OE or equivalent and you should restore your ride and towing characteristics. Anything additional (helper bags and/or HD shocks, etc.) would be to improve the stance and handling when loaded within those ratings.

Will this 20' cargo trailer be loaded? If so, be mindful of proper loading/weight distribution.

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

 

[iamdub]

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

These days, there's no telling who has the "best price" on anything any more. You have to constantly shop around. Availability is the main kicker. A lot of those OE parts supply sites carry the parts and let you put them in a cart and pay for them, THEN they tell you later they're out of stock/backordered. Since the Gold/Professional parts are aftermarket, they tend to be more often in stock. But, if you're fine with aftermarket shocks (no reason to not be), there are known good ones that you can buy directly. In general, Bilstein is the top dog. I forget which series, but I think it's Gabriel that is another good choice. I think I recall the KYB Gas-A-Just being good. But KYB Excel-G are GARBAGE.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I vote Z71 springs and Bilstein 5100s

 

[George B]

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

Take a look here:

2007 GMC YUKON 5.3L V8 Shock Absorber | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Lots of good options to choose. Even good adjustable air shocks from AC Delco. Although I believe you would be happy with some good Gabriel shocks too.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Drove it for the first time since getting the alignment last Wednesday. Noticing that the steering wheel points to 11 when going straight. Well, not quite 11, maybe 11:30, but it's not straight up 12.

Now it might be my tires, I haven't gotten the new ones installed yet and they're pretty worn from driving with the bad ball joints for a bit.

If it's still off after I install the new wheels and tires could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

 

[89Suburban]

Drove it for the first time since getting the alignment last Wednesday. Noticing that the steering wheel points to 11 when going straight. Well, not quite 11, maybe 11:30, but it's not straight up 12.

Now it might be my tires, I haven't gotten the new ones installed yet and they're pretty worn from driving with the bad ball joints for a bit.

If it's still off after I install the new wheels and tires could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

Welcome to the DIY alignment sickness.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Welcome to the DIY alignment sickness.

Nope, not going anywhere near what you did doing an alignment. Just straightening the steering wheel.

It doesn't pull and drives straight even with hands off the wheel.

 

[StrkAliteN]

These days, there's no telling who has the "best price" on anything any more. You have to constantly shop around. Availability is the main kicker. A lot of those OE parts supply sites carry the parts and let you put them in a cart and pay for them, THEN they tell you later they're out of stock/backordered. Since the Gold/Professional parts are aftermarket, they tend to be more often in stock. But, if you're fine with aftermarket shocks (no reason to not be), there are known good ones that you can buy directly. In general, Bilstein is the top dog. I forget which series, but I think it's Gabriel that is another good choice. I think I recall the KYB Gas-A-Just being good. But KYB Excel-G are GARBAGE.

I am more concerned putting the best quality shock on my vehicle than saving 5-10 dollars

I appreciate all the info, but honestly the more I read the more confused I am getting.

My biggest fear is ordering a set that will just not fit and that royally ***** me and wastes alot of time
2nd biggest fear is i install a set on the rear that creates a dangerous towing condition for my cross county trip next year

I just want the best regular shock ( no air adjust - no crazy modifications ) Just a factory set that will perform guaranteed above average results.

I honestly do not care who makes them.

I do not understand how how that 3rd shock will fit like the center as it looks completely differant ends ? yet both are supposed to fit ?