What else to do for body roll?

[iamdub]

 

[GreyStone]

Damn it Dub!.....I said stop taking pictures of me.

 

[BG1988]

you could always increase the Tire pressure to the max side wall that will help a lot...



don;t forget to turn down the sound

even moving out of the way at 35 mph minimal body roll with stock configuration
Electrical power steering, (rack and pinion )



I know it looks like he was far away but this is a WIDE angle lens so it was pretty close, with in a foot of hitting me.. I have the green light and going straight I have the full right of way..


you can see even swerving out of the way (YES i checked my mirror before i did that as i had a gut feeling the idiot was going to do that) nah it's just predictive driving

I mostly drive straight though.. lol

 

[Rocket Man]

Ditch the crap DJM control arms, go with drop spindles instead so your suspension geometry is unchanged and make sure your jounce stops are now touching your control arms or at least close to them ( I know DJM does away with these and they say they’re not needed with their arms but this is BS imo) There’s a few who have said the DJM arms work and many more who say their handling sucks with them. There are also beefier sway bars available like Hotchkiss or DJM makes better ones than the Beltech and will make a bit of difference, and if you’re running stock length end links with those sway bars and you’re lowered, those need to be shortened so your sway bars are parallel with the ground in the rear and with your control arms in the front or the sway bars aren’t working right. I recommend DJM’s end links for the rear which also move the sway bar to the right so your panhard bar bracket has clearance and for the front I suggest going to Energy Suspension’s website and they show you how to measure for the correct length. And as others have mentioned, no matter what you do with your suspension, if you’re trying to eliminate body roll you can’t expect to run 20” wheels with that amount of sidewall or a lot of your work on the suspension is wasted due to sidewall flex. You’ll have to give up some ride quality. 22’s will result in a significant difference, 24’s even more.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-sway-bar-end-links.asp

 

[Dantheman1540]

Ditch the crap DJM control arms, go with drop spindles instead so your suspension geometry is unchanged and make sure your jounce stops are now touching your control arms or at least close to them ( I know DJM does away with these and they say they’re not needed with their arms but this is BS imo) There’s a few who have said the DJM arms work and many more who say their handling sucks with them. There are also beefier sway bars available like Hotchkiss or DJM makes better ones than the Beltech and will make a bit of difference, and if you’re running stock length end links with those sway bars and you’re lowered, those need to be shortened so your sway bars are parallel with the ground in the rear and with your control arms in the front or the sway bars aren’t working right. I recommend DJM’s end links for the rear which also move the sway bar to the right so your panhard bar bracket has clearance and for the front I suggest going to Energy Suspension’s website and they show you how to measure for the correct length. And as others have mentioned, no matter what you do with your suspension, if you’re trying to eliminate body roll you can’t expect to run 20” wheels with that amount of sidewall or a lot of your work on the suspension is wasted due to sidewall flex. You’ll have to give up some ride quality. 22’s will result in a significant difference, 24’s even more.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-sway-bar-end-links.asp

This is great advice! Especially about the end link angles and the jounce stops which people seem to ignore all the time. I somehow missed the DJM arms in the original post but I have heard similar things about the DJM arms causing excessive bumpsteer. Which is why I'm doing spindles and coilovers eventually.

Also I've been shopping for sway bars for a few months now and after doing a bunch of research I found the Hellwig bars to be the thickest and supposedly the stiffest and most expensive.

If you can post some more pictures of your setup! We all love seeing the heavily modded trucks out there.

 

[svtthis]

Djm get a bad rap but the bump steer kit made a huge difference. I'll look at the swar bar end links up front never thought about those.

 

[svtthis]

22's and drop spindles are in the future but right now the supercharger kit is top priority.

 

[Dantheman1540]

22's and drop spindles are in the future but right now the supercharger kit is top priority.

What super charger are you going with? I have a Magnusson and love it but leaning strongly toward a Torqstorm for my Tahoe. I feel with the dedicated 8rib drive, self contained oil system and all billit design its by far the best value out there. But they are somewhat limited to about 700hp which is more than my daily driver needs.

 

[Tonyrodz]

What super charger are you going with? I have a Magnusson and love it but leaning strongly toward a Torqstorm for my Tahoe. I feel with the dedicated 8rib drive, self contained oil system and all billit design its by far the best value out there. But they are somewhat limited to about 700hp which is more than my daily driver needs.

Nice setup.

 

[Dantheman1540]

They are freaking cheap for what you get! There customer support seems really good too.