What is the thing inside my rear axle bearing?

[Addicted]

No, I don't mean the axle. To be more accurate, the thingy I'm wondering about is just inboard of (not insdide) the axle bearing.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the rear end on my 2007 Yukon. I started hearing bearing noise, and decided I better tear it apart.

I have all new Timken bearings from Summit, and an Eaton Truetrac (ditching the G80).

Not sure it needed it, but I decided to put new axle bearings and seals in while I have it apart. Pulling the bearings was a little challenging because there was barely enough room to slip a bearing puller in. There is some odd device just inboard of the bearings.

What is that device inside the axle tube (housing) just inside the bearing? It has a piece with 8 or 10 holes in it, and another piece that seems to be a rubber lined tube that spins with the axle shaft. Is it an oiler? A balancer? A vibration dampener? I can't find a thing about it on the forum or anywhere on the internet.

Another odd question. How deep are the bearings supposed to be pressed? The ones I removed were not pressed up against a lip. Seemed strange. If I press them until they stop, they will be even tighter against the thingy of unknown purpose from question 1, and I don't think I could get a bearing puller back in behind them again. Sliding the old bearings and seals back onto the axle shafts, I can line up the wear marks and I confirmed that the bearings were about 1/8 to 3/16 out from where they would be if I pressed them all the way in.

 

[Addicted]

Picture:

The lines running parallel to the axle axis are rubber. What is it?

 

[dubyagee01]

Looks like an ABS reluctor. Not sure.

 

[YukonAZ]

That is definately the ABS reluctor as dubyagee01 said

 

[Addicted]

Thanks. I feel stupid for not figuring that out.

On my bearing question, I ended up checking the position with gear marking compound. They were definitely not up against a step in the housing. The new ones are right back where the old ones were.
I finished the install this morning, and it turned out perfect. Not the slightest bit of gear noise.

 

[Juan Nieto84]

Thanks. I feel stupid for not figuring that out.

On my bearing question, I ended up checking the position with gear marking compound. They were definitely not up against a step in the housing. The new ones are right back where the old ones were.
I finished the install this morning, and it turned out perfect. Not the slightest bit of gear noise.

Hey I'm hearing a grinding sound from my differential on my 2007 yukon I opener it up because I had metal shavings on the plug where you fill. Couldn't see anything from the outside, not sure where to start. Any info would help,or it will at least point me in the right direction

 

[Addicted]

Hey I'm hearing a grinding sound from my differential on my 2007 yukon I opener it up because I had metal shavings on the plug where you fill. Couldn't see anything from the outside, not sure where to start. Any info would help,or it will at least point me in the right direction

If you haven't done differential setup before, I'd atleast get an expert opinion on what it needs. Grinding doesn't sound good. A whine or howl from the bearings or gears is a typical first sign of a problem.

How many miles are on it?

If you plan to do any gear or bearing work yourself, start with this:
1. Don't take anything else apart except unhooking the driveshaft, pulling wheels off, and maybe pulling axle shafts.
2. Clean it out some with brake cleaner.
3. Get gear marking compound to check your gear mesh.
4. Get a dial indicator and measure backlash.
5. If you are comfortable that you can do steps 3 & 4 accurately, then you MIGHT be able to take it apart and repair whatever it needs yourself. It is not a simple job.

A good shop will probably charge $350 to $500 labor for a teardown and setup. I'd recommend paying it if you are at all uncomfortable with the job.


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[Juan Nieto84]

If you haven't done differential setup before, I'd atleast get an expert opinion on what it needs. Grinding doesn't sound good. A whine or howl from the bearings or gears is a typical first sign of a problem.

How many miles are on it?

If you plan to do any gear or bearing work yourself, start with this:
1. Don't take anything else apart except unhooking the driveshaft, pulling wheels off, and maybe pulling axle shafts.
2. Clean it out some with brake cleaner.
3. Get gear marking compound to check your gear mesh.
4. Get a dial indicator and measure backlash.
5. If you are comfortable that you can do steps 3 & 4 accurately, then you MIGHT be able to take it apart and repair whatever it needs yourself. It is not a simple job.

A good shop will probably charge $350 to $500 labor for a teardown and setup. I'd recommend paying it if you are at all uncomfortable with the job.


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Thank you for the info, I'll have someone look into it.

 

[Wake]

\
I have all new Timken bearings from Summit, and an Eaton Truetrac (ditching the G80).

Just a question about your choice as I don't know the rear ends that well. I didn't think you could change the differential type in one of these modern trucks with the stability control, namely the active braking workings because of the way it shifts power from one side to the other by applying the brake to the spinning wheel.

 

[Addicted]

Just a question about your choice as I don't know the rear ends that well. I didn't think you could change the differential type in one of these modern trucks with the stability control, namely the active braking workings because of the way it shifts power from one side to the other by applying the brake to the spinning wheel.

Sorry for the slow response. There is nothing in the guts of the differential tied to stability control. You can go open differential or any number of posi/ locking carriers. The stability control is looking at wheel speeds.

I will say that I am thrilled with the Eaton truetrac. I have put it to good use, mostly moving my camper and boat trailers in hilly grassy areas. Last week, my dad hooked his jeep grand cherokee up to our family boat which was parked in an awkward spot behind our cottage ( really hilly grass). It just spun one front and one rear wheel. We then switched to my Yukon. In 4 low, I could feel (and later see in the grass) a brief slip and then traction. It pulled right out with no mess.


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